06colorado

iTrader: (4)

Thats not bad at all!!!!

tdevil55, if you do post it up id like to the reactions

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

If you've done it since the beginning, then yours wouldn't have accumulated much then would it?

I'm not speaking of hype or myth, but from real life experience. Mid-high mileage cars that have never had an engine flush (maybe not even regular interval oil changes), had the motor flushed crap put in it and .. I'm not talking LS specific either, but was just saying in general, an engine flush isn't the holy grail of a car running good and everything being flawless.. it can cause problems.. Same thing for a high mileage transmission that hasn't been flushed in it's life or the fluid changed.. things can go wrong... just because the owner lacked to service the car the majority of the vehicles life/mileage (flush wise and preventative maintenance), doesn't mean that it'd be a great idea to go and do it now, at the high mileage..

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I agree with you. But IN MY OPINION, if an engine is not flushed out with an engine cleaner at least every 2-3 oil changes.....its not being taken care of top notch. I agree that an engine with 80,000+ miles that has been taken care of terribly could certainly have real sludge all through the engine and could break a chunk off that could clog the oil pump filter screen.
I would do it anyway though....and just watch the oil pressure the entire time it was idling with the flush in it. Then shut it off the second I saw the pressure guage start to drop. If it never affected the oil pressure I would drain the oil and flush out, fill it back up with new oil and a new bottle of flush, then do it one more time with just oil and then drain it. Then put the new oil in and your done.

After that if nothing clogged it, you can consider it very clean inside, I would say.

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payo

Man, I was so excited today about sea-foaming my fuel system. I added a can to the fuel tank and was happy with how that seemed to clean the injectors.. so I thought it would be worth having a go at the fuel system since it looked easy enough!

I didn't have a clip on the brake boost line, and the whole fitting seems to be easy enough to just pull out from the firewall. I took that out, removed the part and put the funnel into the line as directed. I started the car, and it was fine.. I could clearly hear the suction coming from the line with the funnel so I was confident that I was on the right track. The rev's didn't seem to be a whole lot different.. I would say about 1500, 2000.. I didn't look at them while I was adding the sea-foam, but I could hear the engine respond to the fluid as it was added.

Anyways, I started to pour the sea-foam in very slowly but the engine was acting as if it was going to stall. I mean, I was pouring this very very very slowly and it was spluttering away. It stalled on me a couple of times and I was barely putting any in. It took forever to get anything close to the suggested amount in...that includes the small amount to stall it... so when the car eventually stalled and I turned the key off... it wouldn't restart!

It honestly took 60-90 minutes for the car to eventually start. I was stranded in a park because I went to an area that was isolated and well 'vented' as suggested! ha ha. It was a mess.

In the end, I finally managed to get it to start. I have no idea what happened. I can only assume that I had flooded the engine or something. I didn't put too much sea-foam in.. and I took my time adding it very slowly. I couldn't imagine anyone connecting the hose to the bottle and allowing to be sucked in.. you really need to do it SLOWLY!

On restarting my engine I made the mistake of not allowing it to idle for 5-10 minutes. I rev'd it up pretty much straight away because I was afraid it would die on me again and I didn't fancy another hour in the park! I got out to close the hood and it stalled.. ha ha. So I restarted it, and took it for a drive.

It was great! Much cleaner, I could feel the difference in RPM's which had been almost stuck on 1000-2500 unless I was on the interstate! They go all the way up now and it shifts much quicker. It did act like it wanted to die whenever I slowed down or took my foot off the gas.. like when I stopped at a set of lights or slowed down to merge/exit the interstate. It seems to be a minor issue and it improved the more I drove it. I managed to do about 15 miles and I really opened it up. No real cloud of smoke but I did have a good lot when I first started it up and rev'd it by mistake at the park. I should have allowed it more time to idle and work through the system.

I was just happy it started back up!!!

91RS383

Take a moment to read this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-your-car.html

Your problems with seafoam are exactly the reason I recommend not using it.

tdevil55

iTrader: (23)

Finally did my seafoam on the car, used reg seafoam in the tank and mopar cleaner in the upper. I have another 1k miles before I change the oil, so will use the other seafoam in the lower when I am about 100 miles till ready to change. Here is the vid of my mopar upper cleaning session. Car never died on me, and it seemed to give it a good cleaning. Vid is kinda dark, but you can see the smoke when it starts. "The red light is on." You will hear this said in the vid, its just too funny.

http://s268.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=MOV01518.flv

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Suggestion:

When you're ready to change your oil, pour a half can of Sea Foam into the crankcase, just let it idle for 5-8 minutes and change it. Don't drive around with that stuff in there...its not good to rev it with things that thin out the oil in there.

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91RS383

Please don't drive for 100 miles with SeaFoam in your oil.

According to the MSDS on seafoam, it is 40-60% mineral oil. You may thin out your oil to dangerous levels.

tdevil55

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for the advice on the oil part, ill just run it at idle like you guys said. Great looking out.

blackfbird98

are you supposed to do all these steps the same day or are you supposed to spread it out? seeing as how you said to pour it in the crank case then after the brake booster line to take it for a spirited drive?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

DO NOT use Sea Foam to clean the top end......use Mopar (MCCC)

You can pour a full can of Sea Foam into a 1/4-1/2 tank of gas tank to clean your entire fuel system.

You can pour Sea Foam into the oil (crankcase) to clean it, but DO NOT go for a drive. Just let it idle for 5-10 minutes and then immediately change the oil. No revving with the Sea Foam in the oil. Just idle.

Yes....you can do all of this stuff at the same time.

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blackfbird98

now i have my car off the road for the winter here in ny could i do this when i am going to start the car for the first time or should i drive around for a couple days then do it? i also have fuel stabilizer in it so would that affect any of the steps?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

If I were you I would start it up, let it warm up to operating temp (15 minutes). Then pour a half can of Sea Foam into the old oil, let it run for another 5 minutes. Then do an oil/filter change as normal.
DO NOT drive it or rev it with the old oil, because after a matter of months just sitting, the oil does break down and its not going to do its job fully up to par. But just idling so it can get warmed up is fine.

I would then run that old gas down to "E", fill it up to only 1/4 tank of new gas first, then pour the other half can of Sea Foam in...and run that out. Pour the Sea Foam in AFTER you fill the gas to 1/4 tank.

Thats it.

....and in my opinion, because I'm an overkill kind of guy. I would first dump that old oil out before starting it up. Oil loses its ability to lubricate properly when its OLD. Being cold I know it'll drain out a little slower but you'll get 90% of it out. Then I would put 4 quarts of new oil in + the half can of Sea Foam. Then start it up and let it warm up. Then I would dump that oil out and put a new filter on and new oil. But thats me. I'm a clean oil freak, IMO...that is the number one key to long engine life.

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blackfbird98

yea i was thinkin about doin it twice to make sure everything is out of there. now one more thing i read about what you posted about mccc, when i do that will it jus all burn off or will i have to be worried about the remenants that are still in the engine? and also i do the mccc before putting the oil in the crankcase correct?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it will all burn out. After you start it up after it soaks for a few hours, let it idle for 10-15 minutes, then go for a very casual chilled out drive. It will clear as you drive. Then slowly accelerate up to about 70mph a few times before going wide open throttle. Make sure the engine accelerates smoothly all the way up to speed. If its missing or stumbling....don't push it. Let it clear out before going WOT.

Doesn't matter when you clean to top end with MCCC. Just do it after the oil change because you're gonna want to take it for a drive as soon as you let it sit for a few hours...so have the new oil in there already.

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Bearsfan88

How often do I use Sea Foam in my gas tank?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I do a full can into a 1/4 - 1/2 tank of gas......every 3-4 months. Been doing that for 12 years.

Just pour the Sea Foam in AFTER you fill the tank to 1/4 - 1/2 full.

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Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Because of the horror stories I'd heard regarding seafoam, I opted to use MCCC through the PCV intake port. Worked great.

nascarnut08

What does FTMFW mean? I too prefer the AMSOIL Flush. Works very well. And AMSOIL PI does a great job of cleaning out the carbon buildup in just one tank of gas.

nascarnut08

Also, BG Products makes and excellent top end cleaner. I install it through the PCV port also.