How To Seafoam Your Car
08-25-2009, 01:47 PM
#1001
But if you want to clean your crank case at the next oil change....just buy 1 bottle of "Gunk" engien flush. Its better to use to clean the crank case.
Use the Gunk flush for the crank case and put the entire can of Sea Foam into a 1/4-1/2 tank of gas to clean the fuel system out.
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09-17-2009, 11:52 AM
#1003
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Just did mine. Wasnt makin any smoke after 10 minutes so I gave it some gas. Little puff then clean air again even during rev. Took her for the spirited drive... a puff when i took off and then nothin. Clean for the whole drive lol. Guess I took better care of er than I thought? 7 years old and 52k miles with barely any carbon discharge. Not sure if I should feel happy at my maintenhance habbits or dissapointed that there wont be much of a difference.
10-05-2009, 01:33 PM
#1005
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amazing thread. I never knew wat seafoam was. My t/a was idling hard and getting horrible milage so i decided to try it. The thread made it so easy and after made a hell of a difference. When i read it will smoke i thought o itll just be a little bit but DAMN i didnt think it would be that much covered the entire road for three telephone poles. Fantastic will definatly be doing this again.
10-23-2009, 04:10 PM
#1006
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I've been using seafoam since '03/'04. unfortunetly with all the hype with threads like this, the price has jumped 80-100% since I started using it. 
I remember when it was $5-6 a can. Now it's $10 locally.
I remember when it was $5-6 a can. Now it's $10 locally.
11-03-2009, 04:55 PM
#1008
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^Pour it in the gas tank.
the other method people use is to pour it slowly directly on the butterflies. Adjust the RPMs just over idle (1500ish), then pour it in real slowly. You can do the same thing with a spray bottle and a quart of plain watter. Just spray it pump after pump right over the carb so it gets sucked in. Don't let the engine bog down.
A better product is eithe GM top engine cleaner or Mopar combustion chamber cleaner (my favorite). They can be bought at dealerships. They are aerosol cans and have instructions on the can.
the other method people use is to pour it slowly directly on the butterflies. Adjust the RPMs just over idle (1500ish), then pour it in real slowly. You can do the same thing with a spray bottle and a quart of plain watter. Just spray it pump after pump right over the carb so it gets sucked in. Don't let the engine bog down.
A better product is eithe GM top engine cleaner or Mopar combustion chamber cleaner (my favorite). They can be bought at dealerships. They are aerosol cans and have instructions on the can.
11-29-2009, 11:40 AM
#1009
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finally got around to doing my 4th gen. only have 46k or so on the car, and i just did an LS6 PCV conversion... coudn't believe how much crap was in the intake chambers in the heads and in the intake manifold. when i pulled the original PCV hose off, there was actually oil pooled behind the PCV valve 
hopefully seafoam got most of it out. only got a little smoke while it was idling, but when i took it for a drive, it smoked pretty good for the first 5 minutes. actually got a blinking SES light the first time i hammered on it. my 4th gen with 46k actually smoked more than when i did my 3rd gen with over 170k on it. i'm willing to bet the shitty LS1 PCV system is to blame.
hopefully seafoam got most of it out. only got a little smoke while it was idling, but when i took it for a drive, it smoked pretty good for the first 5 minutes. actually got a blinking SES light the first time i hammered on it. my 4th gen with 46k actually smoked more than when i did my 3rd gen with over 170k on it. i'm willing to bet the shitty LS1 PCV system is to blame.
11-29-2009, 09:01 PM
#1010
I did this today on the GFs T/A. I rigged up an IV drip type of thing.
Poured the can of seafoam into a bottle, then hooked it to the hood latch.
Cut a hole on the lid of bottle and put a 1/4" clear hose all the way into the bottom of the bottle. Ran the hose into the PCV port on the intake. Halfway down the hose, I put a shutoff valve to regulate the flow.About 3/4 of the way down the hose, I put a plastic T fitting. What that does is introduce air into the hose. That way it turns the seafoam into a mist, so its not just liquid getting sucked into engine. I figure theres a better chance of even distribution in the intake this way.
Ive used this method on numerous cars with good results. Always get tons of smoke coming out of the exhaust during and after the procedure. After all the smoke clears they seem to run better.
Poured the can of seafoam into a bottle, then hooked it to the hood latch.
Cut a hole on the lid of bottle and put a 1/4" clear hose all the way into the bottom of the bottle. Ran the hose into the PCV port on the intake. Halfway down the hose, I put a shutoff valve to regulate the flow.About 3/4 of the way down the hose, I put a plastic T fitting. What that does is introduce air into the hose. That way it turns the seafoam into a mist, so its not just liquid getting sucked into engine. I figure theres a better chance of even distribution in the intake this way.
Ive used this method on numerous cars with good results. Always get tons of smoke coming out of the exhaust during and after the procedure. After all the smoke clears they seem to run better.
11-30-2009, 10:23 PM
#1012
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11-30-2009, 10:25 PM
#1013
So many people still using Sea Foam to clean their top ends.....the MCCC is so much better and so much easier to put into the top end.
Its buried in this thread back a few pages.
Simple as it gets:
Sea Foam cleans the 2-3 back cylinders ONLY, at best. No way does it touch the rest of the cylinders. It also only touches the back two intake runners.
MCCC:
Gets to all 8 cylinders equally, all 8 intake runners equally...and touches every square inch of the intake walls, exposed cylinder walls, header runners/chambers and piston surfaces.
Picture below is how its put in, takes 30 seconds and you're done.
Pop off the vacuum line, pop on 1-2 foot piece of hose, spray it in with an already warmed up engine, while engine is just idling, have a friend shut the engine off just as the can starts to run out. Let sit for 2-4 hours. Start it up and let it idle for 10 minutes. Go for a casual drive until you can smoothly accelerate to WOT with no missing or hesitation.
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Its buried in this thread back a few pages.
Simple as it gets:
Sea Foam cleans the 2-3 back cylinders ONLY, at best. No way does it touch the rest of the cylinders. It also only touches the back two intake runners.
MCCC:
Gets to all 8 cylinders equally, all 8 intake runners equally...and touches every square inch of the intake walls, exposed cylinder walls, header runners/chambers and piston surfaces.
Picture below is how its put in, takes 30 seconds and you're done.
Pop off the vacuum line, pop on 1-2 foot piece of hose, spray it in with an already warmed up engine, while engine is just idling, have a friend shut the engine off just as the can starts to run out. Let sit for 2-4 hours. Start it up and let it idle for 10 minutes. Go for a casual drive until you can smoothly accelerate to WOT with no missing or hesitation.
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Last edited by LS6427; 11-30-2009 at 10:40 PM.
12-01-2009, 09:18 AM
#1016
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Seafoam seems to work good. I did it a while back and had some decent carbon discharge..
Don't flush your engine though.. All the gunk and **** runs to the bottom of your motor and will clog your oil pickup and your engine will go
Don't flush your engine though.. All the gunk and **** runs to the bottom of your motor and will clog your oil pickup and your engine will go
12-01-2009, 09:58 AM
#1017
Its another one of the many dozens of myths about engines that **** builds up inside the engine "in a way" that big chunks will come loose and clog something. Oil is an engine cleaner the whole time its in there moving through it. 125,000+ miles (on my 427ci stroker) later and no clogs here, just a clean *** engine with my factory original 1998 oil pump.
Dion't believe the hype.
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12-01-2009, 07:47 PM
#1018
I run a bottle of GUNK engine flush through at every oil change to get as much of the old oil out that I can before putting clean oil back in.
Its another one of the many dozens of myths about engines that **** builds up inside the engine "in a way" that big chunks will come loose and clog something. Oil is an engine cleaner the whole time its in there moving through it. 125,000+ miles (on my 427ci stroker) later and no clogs here, just a clean *** engine with my factory original 1998 oil pump.
Dion't believe the hype.
.
Its another one of the many dozens of myths about engines that **** builds up inside the engine "in a way" that big chunks will come loose and clog something. Oil is an engine cleaner the whole time its in there moving through it. 125,000+ miles (on my 427ci stroker) later and no clogs here, just a clean *** engine with my factory original 1998 oil pump.
Dion't believe the hype.
.
