I did an oil change yesterday and put german made castrol 0w-30 and too be honest i did not notice anything. My oil pressure did not rise (Same when i used mobil 1)
Off course, i will drive it til my next oil change and if i don't see or hear any difference then i will go back to M1.

 

I use fully synthetic castrol my oil pressure went up alot...

 

Thats what i used.

 

Well you might not..but your engine could. Mobile one 5-30W can Thin out too much...
try the 0-40 or even 10-40....

See if your car uses less oil or sounds like it runs better.

 

I use the good ol' GTX 20w50. Never let ya down and you NEVER have to worry about the oil pressure going down.

 

[QUOTE=Alpha-Q]I did an oil change yesterday and put german made castrol 0w-30 and too be honest i did not notice anything. My oil pressure did not rise (Same when i used mobil 1)
Off course, i will drive it til my next oil change and if i don't see or hear any difference then i will go back to M1.[/QUOTE I

I tried it in my 00 T/A, and noticed zero difference in oil pressure over mobil 1 5/30, and in fact the hot startup lifter and rocker noise got worse with the GC in it than the mobil 1. I've used Mobile 1 10-30 in the Hawk since 200 miles on the clock and it has better pressure, of course it has less miles too.
I'll probably switch back to mobil 1 10/30 after the "change oil" light pops on on the T/A (yes, to tick some people off, that is what I'm going to go by in my oil change routine in the T/A at least).
I've had cars, and have seen cars run to almost 200K on regular dyno oil, so I really don't think the pain of trying to find the GC is really worth the minimal if any advantage to using it in the long term....when was the last time anyone ever had an engine failure because they used dyno oil in their car as their only oil? The LS1 isn't exotic..its a mass produced GM engine that was built to live on regular cheap oil and like it.

 

"when was the last time anyone ever had an engine failure because they used dyno oil in their car" wow finally someone else also seems to think this GC epidemic is overrated.

 

Is there such a thing as high oil pressure?[/QUOTE]

Sure, if the pressure relief valve sticks you can blow seals, most likely blow a hole in the oil filter, and quickly pump 6 quarts of your favorite oil right out of your engine into the great outdoors...

The SD 455 (Super Duty) Pontiac engines in 73 and 74 had extremely high oil pressure from the factory. This was actually found to cause oiling problems internally and has been blamed on them blowing up prematurely. When they are rebuilt today the 80psi (I think) factory pressure is almost always brought down to 60psi by the rebuilder who is "in the know".

There's always the high volume low pressure method of oiling too...

 

continuing the off topicidness, i ran royal purple 20-50 and the gauge would may out on full throttle runs. didnt like that so i ended up dumping early and switching back to the 10-40. glad to see i made the right decision.

 

I agree I had a 95 silverado that I only used castrol dino oil in and I just sold it about 8 mounths ago and it had 255,000 miles on it, still had 60psi of oil and only a slight rear main leak. Up until 200,000 I used 10w40 after 200,000 I went to 20w50. No improvement I oil press, just slowed oil leak down. I did nothing to the engine. I never replaced the valve cover gskts. I think that running syn really has no advantage. If the oil is change with in reason and not every 10-15,000 miles than it is ok.

 

running castrol syntec blend, 10w30, seems to be working fine for me, i know that theres always something better, or someone elses opinion, but i cant justify spending $6 a quart and going through the hassle of finding some place that always carries it

 

That's why there are so many choices of brands and weights...to each his own.

 

you likely won't notice a whole lot over mobil 1. however, get your mobil 1 oil analyzed and your GC 0W-30 oil analyzed. be amazed as the mobil 1 oil has over twice the wear in it...

things like oil pressure rising a few psi, engine noise...they're a moot point. the most important part is engine wear. you want the oil that protects the best first and foremost. everything else is just an extra topping on the pizza. i use GC 0W-30 because it protects the best. you know what? my piston slap is decently loud on cold startup. but who cares if i'm getting the best protection, right?

 

While on this topic, I have quick question. I changed my oil back in March to 0w40 Mobil 1 and there are about 1500 miles on the oil now. Should I go ahead and change it before Winter even though there are so few miles on the oil? Or should I just let the 0w40 sit in there until Spring. I'll probably put another 500 miles on it or so before Winter storage time.

I plan on trying GC 0w30 on my next change, hopefully that will quiet my startup clatter a bit.

 

I don't think 20w-50 is a good idea in a ls1 car.

 

How many times has this been done (tested) though...?

 

if you store it, leave it in there and just change it before you start up the car again IMO. synthetic oil can last from 6 months to a year and be okay so i wouldn't worry too much about it. i assume you'll want to start it up every 2 weeks or once a month and that should be okay. just change the oil before you start using it again. at least that's what i'd do. no use changing your oil and letting it sit there. maybe someone more educated than me in the area of automobile storage can chime in.

i agree. 20W-50 =

www.bobistheoilguy.com

the areas that mobil 1 usually win in in oil analyses is freed up horsepower. mobil 1 is usually very non-parasitic and puts more hp to the ground than most other oils. they do this generally by being so thin. if you got mobil 1 oil analyzed a few times, you'd probably stop using it on your own from the reports i've seen. mobil 1 is not bad oil, but it is definitely overmarketed and much of the praise is hype. people buy mobil 1 because it's the most heavily advertised, not because it's the best oil. people assume because it has the "mobil" name, it's good. well, it's alright stuff, but there's much better out there.

 

i don't know.. i use Quaker "Q" full synthetic. and i don't seem to have any problems. and i have 175k on the clock.

 

Just change your oil at the right intervals.

 

One thing I found out about Mobil One is that the full Synthetic Regular Oil is now a cheaper variation with less additives. The Original Mobil one is now the stuff the put in the 15,000 mile bottles. So, in other words, they found out that their original oil can be run for 15,000, so they repackaged it and raised the price while they put a cheaper version in their original bottles. Also, I just switched from mobil one (for the above reason and others) to the GC 0w30, and I noticed a decrease in valvetrain noise. So for me, this has actually helped.