Leaking Anti-Freeze....Water Pump???
09-19-2006, 11:53 PM
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Leaking Anti-Freeze....Water Pump??? Has anybody else had this problem? My car is leaking radiator fluid on the passenger side. All the rubber hoses are coated with **** but nothing else is. More than likely it's the water pump but you never know. What has been anyone else's experience with a problem like this and how was it resolved?
09-20-2006, 12:00 AM
#2
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bay Area California
Posts: 4,409
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
YES!! about 6 months ago my car was leaking coolant.....Had to replace the damn water pump!! i have heard of many other ls-1 owners with the same problem...its most likely the water pump
09-20-2006, 08:35 AM
#3
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I changed my water pump last month. It puked all over the Wal-Mart parking lot and I had to get it towed home it leaked so bad.
I never actually SAW where it was coming from, but I was able to discern that it was coming from the weephole area and running down towards the passenger side. It was a pain to get under the car with a flashlight in the parking lot in my nice work clothes, but it was required.
It didn't leak until it got to operating temp and became pressurized.
It wasn't really hard to change over, just a PITA.
The good parts of the story was that I got the afternoon off while waiting for the AAA tow truck, I broke down at W-Mart where I could go buy some more coolant, and while I was under the hood an AWSOME looking young redhead babe with the SHORTEST skirt and the LONGEST legs parked two cars away...in an old Camaro. She was HOT.
It almost made it worth the pain.
I never actually SAW where it was coming from, but I was able to discern that it was coming from the weephole area and running down towards the passenger side. It was a pain to get under the car with a flashlight in the parking lot in my nice work clothes, but it was required.
It didn't leak until it got to operating temp and became pressurized.
It wasn't really hard to change over, just a PITA.
The good parts of the story was that I got the afternoon off while waiting for the AAA tow truck, I broke down at W-Mart where I could go buy some more coolant, and while I was under the hood an AWSOME looking young redhead babe with the SHORTEST skirt and the LONGEST legs parked two cars away...in an old Camaro. She was HOT.
It almost made it worth the pain.
09-20-2006, 11:52 AM
#4
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright, where's this thing located at? Is it the thermostat that's located sorta towards the upper passenger side on the front of the engine? If so, when you feel underneath it you can feel all this gooey **** (which is the where the coolant is leaking I'm sure). Or am I mistaking that for the water pump?
09-20-2006, 12:41 PM
#5
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I have attached three pictures of the water pump. One is a .jpeg, two is a .gif, and three is a jpeg.
The first jpeg photo is clearest, but the gif photo has the thermostat housing inside the square box and the weephole inside the circle.
The water pump is on the center front of the motor. It lies below the MAF and TB, both of which come off when you change the water pump. You can see it on the the third photo, the LS1 motor.
The first jpeg photo is clearest, but the gif photo has the thermostat housing inside the square box and the weephole inside the circle.
The water pump is on the center front of the motor. It lies below the MAF and TB, both of which come off when you change the water pump. You can see it on the the third photo, the LS1 motor.
09-20-2006, 02:49 PM
#6
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Awesome, yeah I asked a guy at work and took another look at it and figured most of it out but you're pictures definately help! Now I know where that weeping hole is. I greatly appreciate the prompt repsonses! Thanks
How long did this job take you? Also, by replacing the water pump do you also have to replace the thermostat seal?
How long did this job take you? Also, by replacing the water pump do you also have to replace the thermostat seal?
09-20-2006, 03:08 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
The thermostat seal is an o-ring, and you put your old thermostat on the new water pump. I'd buy an new o-ring if it isn't included with whatever you purchase. I think I had to reuse the old thermostat housing, too, but it's been more than ten minutes so I forgot.
My water pump came with new gaskets. The old gaskets stuck to the motor and they were the hardest I've ever had to get off. Anything. Ever.
I had to wait for the water pump to come in from the manufacturer. Over those several days I was able to take my time and take things off, take pictures for reassembly, clean out the overflow container, poke around, port my TB, and get those damn gaskets off. BTW, when I vacuumed out the gasket material from the block I was able to suck out another bunch of the coolant from the block passageways. This was a good time for me to change over to green coolant, so I did.
If it were a remove and replace I could have done it over a Saturday.
My water pump came with new gaskets. The old gaskets stuck to the motor and they were the hardest I've ever had to get off. Anything. Ever.
I had to wait for the water pump to come in from the manufacturer. Over those several days I was able to take my time and take things off, take pictures for reassembly, clean out the overflow container, poke around, port my TB, and get those damn gaskets off. BTW, when I vacuumed out the gasket material from the block I was able to suck out another bunch of the coolant from the block passageways. This was a good time for me to change over to green coolant, so I did.
If it were a remove and replace I could have done it over a Saturday.
Trending Topics
09-20-2006, 07:48 PM
#9
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I purchased my car about a year and a half ago. One of the first things I did was get the cooling system flushed/refilled. It looked pretty bad. I went with Dexcool because that's what it called for.
After that I researched quite a bit to see what this Dexcool stuff was all about. I learned about the chunks, the crud, the goo, and the clogged radiators.
I'm pretty good at keeping up with maintenance so the 5yr/50k mile thing didn't bother me very much. I wasn't likely to press my luck that much so it was really a moot point.
But, I don't care about being 100% GM correct in every way. Dexcool has it good points and bad points. 5w or 10w-30 oil is called for in the owner's manual, but I don't feel a need to kill myself if I don't put it in my car. Likewise the coolant color.
At the time of Dexcool's inception there weren't all THAT many cars using aluminum throughout their engine. Dexcool's main claim to fame is that it's good for aluminum engines. Made for it, even. Ok, now green coolants are too.
I don't believe green coolants suffer the same fate if infiltrated with air or non-distilled water. I use the 50/50 mix so I don't even add water. I just add more green coolant.
It's easy to get. It's everywhere Prestone is sold. The price is good. And it works.
Just my personal choice. Dexcool holds no magic for me.
After that I researched quite a bit to see what this Dexcool stuff was all about. I learned about the chunks, the crud, the goo, and the clogged radiators.
I'm pretty good at keeping up with maintenance so the 5yr/50k mile thing didn't bother me very much. I wasn't likely to press my luck that much so it was really a moot point.
But, I don't care about being 100% GM correct in every way. Dexcool has it good points and bad points. 5w or 10w-30 oil is called for in the owner's manual, but I don't feel a need to kill myself if I don't put it in my car. Likewise the coolant color.
At the time of Dexcool's inception there weren't all THAT many cars using aluminum throughout their engine. Dexcool's main claim to fame is that it's good for aluminum engines. Made for it, even. Ok, now green coolants are too.
I don't believe green coolants suffer the same fate if infiltrated with air or non-distilled water. I use the 50/50 mix so I don't even add water. I just add more green coolant.
It's easy to get. It's everywhere Prestone is sold. The price is good. And it works.
Just my personal choice. Dexcool holds no magic for me.
09-22-2006, 05:57 PM
#11
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
If your cap is good, there's no leaks, you top off with at 50/50 Dexcool mix, and you haven't had any trouble in the past...there's no good reason to change from Dexcool at your next flush/refill. It works in a tight system.
But it isn't going to kill your car if you change over to green.
Dexcool works, it's just that it has issues in systems that aren't tight.
But it isn't going to kill your car if you change over to green.
Dexcool works, it's just that it has issues in systems that aren't tight.
09-23-2006, 01:25 AM
#12
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I installed the new waterpump today and everything went fine. The only thing that is odd to me is this high pitched hissing sound that I now have. I noticed this same noise right when my old water pump was on its last leg so what gives? Is this normal for a new one? Will it go away? Or is there something else about to go that I haven't found? Everything is sealed, no leaks....it just sounds like air out of a compressor or something...
09-23-2006, 06:17 AM
#13
On The Tree
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: grimsby, ont. can.
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Usually the pump gaskets go before the pump for some reason, but, while your there do the pump.
The hissing sound could be coolant on the belts. If you can't get a wire brush in there and be very careful, try putting a dab of grease on the ribbed side of both belts and see what happens. If that doesn't do anything, let it ride and see what happens. Maybe its a weird break in?
The hissing sound could be coolant on the belts. If you can't get a wire brush in there and be very careful, try putting a dab of grease on the ribbed side of both belts and see what happens. If that doesn't do anything, let it ride and see what happens. Maybe its a weird break in?
09-23-2006, 09:44 AM
#14
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I'm not familiar with that sound in my engine bay. I took the opportunity to change my belts while I was at it and the gatorback belts whine a lot. I couldn't have heard it if there was that sound.
09-23-2006, 10:07 AM
#15
Tech Resident
mine just started leaking on the passenger's side a little bit ago. i guess i gotta save up for this one 
what's the brand of water pump everyone recommends? napa has one for $159 but i can get the OEM GM pump for $163.
what's the brand of water pump everyone recommends? napa has one for $159 but i can get the OEM GM pump for $163.
09-23-2006, 10:23 AM
#16
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is an air build up somewhere since I can hear it discharge right after I kill the engine...confusing. Also, for about 7-10 seconds after I start the engine, the noise is not there but then kicks on like it's part of some kind of process. I've read that there is a system called AIR on these (it recirculates air into the cat among other stuff) maybe this has something to do with it??? All I know is that it still isn't leaking so I must have installed everything correctly, I'll wait it out and see what happens I guess...
09-24-2006, 10:10 AM
#17
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Just This Side of Damnation
Posts: 1,231
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Seek, and ye shall find.
Choco, if it were me I'd go for the GM at a couple of extra bucks. I didn't even think to ask the parts guy...Every time I go in there I feel like I should be wearing lipstick when I bend over with my money.
Choco, if it were me I'd go for the GM at a couple of extra bucks. I didn't even think to ask the parts guy...Every time I go in there I feel like I should be wearing lipstick when I bend over with my money.
09-24-2006, 11:57 AM
#18
Teching In
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Westminster, Ca
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
At 43k the waterpump went out and was replaced by GM under warranty. At 94k(2 weeks ago), it went out again. I replaced it with a lifetime warrantied pump from car quest. The gaskets that came with the car quest pump were much better than the factory gaskets. I dont think the GM pump is any better.
09-26-2006, 01:43 AM
#19
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Found out what that hissing noise was. 
It is an air leak on a vacuum line. There is a little 2 or 3 inch rubber hose right behind (passenger side) the throttle body that has a cut in it. Easy enough, just gotta find out what to call that part.
It is an air leak on a vacuum line. There is a little 2 or 3 inch rubber hose right behind (passenger side) the throttle body that has a cut in it. Easy enough, just gotta find out what to call that part. 
