Never Using Mobile1 Again
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by Mr Incredible
I can only make an attempt to make sure nobody else believes what you are trying to make them believe...about this one single issue.
I agree that this isn't about people like us who already know better, it's about the people that DON'T know better yet, and not wanting these people to beleive and further perpetuated these falsehoods to others.
staringback05..... as much as you might think this is about US vs YOU, it's not. It's about right vs wrong, nothing more and nothing less.
You spend a lot of time on this site and I think you mean well here, but on this topic you are very, very wrong.
Here is a thread about oil and engine wear. I have not seen one oil analysis. I have seen very good analysis with GC 0-30(just not here). I use a K-N filter because it has good flow. Not once has anyone brought up how a oil filter effects wear.
In a new engine use dino 0-30 something to brake it in. Change a 300 miles or use dino again and change at 1000.
Then use CG 0-30. Lock this theard
In a new engine use dino 0-30 something to brake it in. Change a 300 miles or use dino again and change at 1000.
Then use CG 0-30. Lock this theard
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
That's exactly my concern as well. Rumors and falsehoods are posted around this site often, and I hate to think that new enthusiasts will fall victim to such bad info, so I do my best to stop/correct the false statements and incorrect “facts” whenever I can.
I agree that this isn't about people like us who already know better, it's about the people that DON'T know better yet, and not wanting these people to beleive and further perpetuated these falsehoods to others.
I agree that this isn't about people like us who already know better, it's about the people that DON'T know better yet, and not wanting these people to beleive and further perpetuated these falsehoods to others.
without weighing the facts themselve's....
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Yes you have seen my facts. I've stated that I have personal experiance with switching weights/brands of oil, within the acceptable range for a given motor, and I've yet to lose an engine doing this...ranging from motors that I've owned brand new all the way to engines I've had with 140,000 miles. Not just LS1s either, I've been switching weights on my Bonneville every winter/spring for the last 5 years and and for many, many 10s of thousands of miles without issue
look this DID happen, you can chalk it up as a isolated occasion...but it did happen and that means its possible
my bottomline advice to people would just be to break in there car with 5w-30....change after 500 miles....would you say this is bad advice?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
Likes: 2,557
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by staringback05
but SEVERAL newer motors with less then 5k miles on DD cars, had come in for other internal issues, when we ripped things apart...we already knew what type of oil was used...from the begininng...we'd ask those things on new motors....we'd have a 110k mile motor sitting there with its seals looking alot better then the 3k mile motor next to it.....110k mile motor came out of a 98 camaro running 5-30 since day one...which is a good weight for the climate of nashville....and the 3k mile motor had run mobil 1 0-40 synth......since day 1....oil had been changed twice....look this DID happen, you can chalk it up as a isolated occasion...but it did happen and that means its possible
Originally Posted by staringback05
my bottomline advice to people would just be to break in there car with 5w-30....change after 500 miles....would you say this is bad advice?
I did not break in any of my motors on the M1 0W40. They were broken in with whatever stuff GM put in from the factory on the F-body issue LS1s. Just regular dino 5W30. Then I changed to synthetic 5 or 10 W30. And on my '98 car, I switched to M1 0W40 around 13,000 miles. Frankly I don't see anything wrong with that.
i used 0w40 in my last two motors after there respective break in periods.....they ran fine
the motors i spoke of did have other internal issues but the oil problems that were pointed out had nothing to do with them....and they were pointed out as a side note....
i just want people to know that its a possibilty of premature wear....im not saying its going to happen to every motor
the motors i spoke of did have other internal issues but the oil problems that were pointed out had nothing to do with them....and they were pointed out as a side note....
i just want people to know that its a possibilty of premature wear....im not saying its going to happen to every motor
Banned
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,636
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I did this same crap 6K miles ago. For some reason our engines make more noise when the oil is fresh. When I bought my car it had 5-30 M1 in it. The oil looked pretty dang dirty (not un-kept, just time to change it.). I did. I have never heard it run as quiet since, lol. I have tried M1 5-30, 0-30GC, 10-40 Syntec, and finally I figured its going to slap and rattle and plink no matter what and just run 0-30 GC b/c it has the best wear numbers. LS1's are all aluminum blocks and are pushrod motors with roller fulcrum rocker arms and short-skirt pistons. Live with it. If you don't want it, buy a 99-04 GT, those are quiet as a church mouse. See you on the street
PS. At some point I know this post will get thrown in my face
PS. At some point I know this post will get thrown in my face
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by staringback05
i used 0w40 in my last two motors after there respective break in periods.....they ran fine
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2005
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Related to what blackw6 said, for the first 500 miles after an oil change my car makes an audible rattling sound around 2k rpms. It is kind of hard to describe the noise, but it almost disappears after like 500 miles or so. I don't know if there is something wrong with the motor or if it just something to do with fresh oil.
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Knappa, Oregon
Why would you want to change to another oil? That is NOT a good policy. 9 times out of 10, it causes some problem.
Wow I didnt really intend for this thread to get this carried away. I guess I was just trying to state that for some reason my engine dont like the M1 so I guess I'll go back the the GC whether it ruins my engine or not but I guess i'll take the chance.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Originally Posted by ghardester
You and I should just silently retreat from this thread and let the boys tear each other up.
Nah, I think the battle is over. Clearly there will never be an agreement on this topic so it's really not worth fighting over any more. At this point, all the info is out there for people to make their own decision.
my break ins....consist of 500 miles then change the oil, plug the plugs and check them, run efi live and see if i have any major differences....also check my oil plug see if i have any major metal on it, a small amount of sheer in a new engine is expected....then i run the same type of oil for another 3000 miles
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 40
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From: Houston Tx
Personaly i have used MB1 5-30, RP 5-30, and now i am trying 4 1/2q MB1 10-30 with Lucas oil (synthetic). Honestly i wont go back to RP due to the fact that piston slap/valvetrain noise never went away, i would hear it when engine dropped RPMs. MB 5-30 was a little better, but i felt alot of vibration at higher rpms. MB1 10-30 and lucas oil has made a noticable difference engine smoothness. Piston slap/valvetrain noise is gone after a few minutes. My car doesnt consume any noticible amounts of oil between changes, and i dont get any shavings on my plug. I used to change oil at quick car 9 years ago, and reps would come by and explain why their product is better. A amsoil rep came buy and explained the difference in Organic oil and Synthetics. He made it real simple. He said, Organic oil is imperfect its like a bottle of little pebbles that arent perfectly round. Synthetics are closer to perfect, they are like a bunch of little marbles almost perfect. Which would rather have between your wear surfaces? pebbles or marbles? Also synthetics tend not to shear and breakdown under extreme conditions as much. He also said, oils that are synthetic blends dont mix completely and the organic oils break down before the additives do. How much of this is fact? How much of it is trying to get us to sell thier product? Im not sure, i do know that synthetics are all around better. I just thought i would pass on some information passed to me by someone reputable. Best thing to do is research things for yourself. What works for me may not work for you.
Last edited by 02 Pewter SS; Feb 24, 2007 at 04:12 PM.
Ls1's knock when cold due to improper piston clearence from gm as has been documented,not oil viscosity choice.And our pistons are hyperutectic cast which run a very tight clearence ,not forged as repoted eariler in this post.
When you have a tight clearence spec and your tooling is off a little, rattle rattle warranty battle.
When you have a tight clearence spec and your tooling is off a little, rattle rattle warranty battle.
Last edited by z-ya; Feb 25, 2007 at 04:14 PM.
