RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

That's exactly my concern as well. Rumors and falsehoods are posted around this site often, and I hate to think that new enthusiasts will fall victim to such bad info, so I do my best to stop/correct the false statements and incorrect “facts” whenever I can.

I agree that this isn't about people like us who already know better, it's about the people that DON'T know better yet, and not wanting these people to beleive and further perpetuated these falsehoods to others.

staringback05..... as much as you might think this is about US vs YOU, it's not. It's about right vs wrong, nothing more and nothing less.

You spend a lot of time on this site and I think you mean well here, but on this topic you are very, very wrong.

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

Here is a thread about oil and engine wear. I have not seen one oil analysis. I have seen very good analysis with GC 0-30(just not here). I use a K-N filter because it has good flow. Not once has anyone brought up how a oil filter effects wear.

In a new engine use dino 0-30 something to brake it in. Change a 300 miles or use dino again and change at 1000.

Then use CG 0-30. Lock this theard

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

this is what im talking about though....you've got 80k people on here, and new guys joining everyday, who's to say they won't read this...see "wow theres TWO guys going off on ONE guy, i guess there right"

without weighing the facts themselve's....

this is the exact set of "facts" i have...i have a crown vic i drive for work, a isuzu trooper i play around in, a s10 for a beater and my 99 bird....for 1. you live up north and the oil you use there wouldnt act the same here...2. the motors that got pulled apart i was pointed towards, for the fact of the oil wear issue.....over four years working in that shop, i cant count how many motors....SBC/LSX/LT1/FORD 4.6/5.0...that we broke down....not many had those issues, but SEVERAL newer motors with less then 5k miles on DD cars, had come in for other internal issues, when we ripped things apart...we already knew what type of oil was used...from the begininng...we'd ask those things on new motors....we'd have a 110k mile motor sitting there with its seals looking alot better then the 3k mile motor next to it.....110k mile motor came out of a 98 camaro running 5-30 since day one...which is a good weight for the climate of nashville....and the 3k mile motor had run mobil 1 0-40 synth......since day 1....oil had been changed twice....

look this DID happen, you can chalk it up as a isolated occasion...but it did happen and that means its possible

my bottomline advice to people would just be to break in there car with 5w-30....change after 500 miles....would you say this is bad advice?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Well, you’ve got a lot of people on this very site that are using M1 0W40 right now (myself included) in their LS1 without any sort of engine failure from doing so. In fact, I’ve seen oil analysis reports that show better wear numbers running the M1 0W40 than using the M1 5W30. That is one of the reasons why I switched to the M1 0W40. So all I can assume is, something else was going on with that 3k mile motor besides the M1 0W40 oil. You said the motor came in for “other internal issues”, my guess is, something besides the oil likely caused whatever damage you found.

Not bad advice at all. But considering that all the C5s came with M1 5W30 from the factory, and you don't see those motors failing left and right, I just don't see how anyone can assume that synthetic is bad for a factory fresh LS1.

I did not break in any of my motors on the M1 0W40. They were broken in with whatever stuff GM put in from the factory on the F-body issue LS1s. Just regular dino 5W30. Then I changed to synthetic 5 or 10 W30. And on my '98 car, I switched to M1 0W40 around 13,000 miles. Frankly I don't see anything wrong with that.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

i used 0w40 in my last two motors after there respective break in periods.....they ran fine

the motors i spoke of did have other internal issues but the oil problems that were pointed out had nothing to do with them....and they were pointed out as a side note....

i just want people to know that its a possibilty of premature wear....im not saying its going to happen to every motor

BLKWS.6

I did this same crap 6K miles ago. For some reason our engines make more noise when the oil is fresh. When I bought my car it had 5-30 M1 in it. The oil looked pretty dang dirty (not un-kept, just time to change it.). I did. I have never heard it run as quiet since, lol. I have tried M1 5-30, 0-30GC, 10-40 Syntec, and finally I figured its going to slap and rattle and plink no matter what and just run 0-30 GC b/c it has the best wear numbers. LS1's are all aluminum blocks and are pushrod motors with roller fulcrum rocker arms and short-skirt pistons. Live with it. If you don't want it, buy a 99-04 GT, those are quiet as a church mouse. See you on the street


PS. At some point I know this post will get thrown in my face

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

How long was your break-in period? 500 miles? 3,000 miles? Just wondering so I know where you're coming from.

01pewterbird

Related to what blackw6 said, for the first 500 miles after an oil change my car makes an audible rattling sound around 2k rpms. It is kind of hard to describe the noise, but it almost disappears after like 500 miles or so. I don't know if there is something wrong with the motor or if it just something to do with fresh oil.

98BADAZZTA

iTrader: (5)

your car ran on the german castrol for so long and the switching over to something different out of the blue moon caused this problem for you. this happened to me before.

Justin00SS

iTrader: (5)

Are you sure that your motor isn't just a POS?

ghardester

Hey sunsetta. You and I should just silently retreat from this thread and let the boys tear each other up. I've got your back, watch the front door.

DrivenWS6

iTrader: (1)

Wow I didnt really intend for this thread to get this carried away. I guess I was just trying to state that for some reason my engine dont like the M1 so I guess I'll go back the the GC whether it ruins my engine or not but I guess i'll take the chance.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

LOL.

Nah, I think the battle is over. Clearly there will never be an agreement on this topic so it's really not worth fighting over any more. At this point, all the info is out there for people to make their own decision.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

my break ins....consist of 500 miles then change the oil, plug the plugs and check them, run efi live and see if i have any major differences....also check my oil plug see if i have any major metal on it, a small amount of sheer in a new engine is expected....then i run the same type of oil for another 3000 miles

02 Pewter SS

Personaly i have used MB1 5-30, RP 5-30, and now i am trying 4 1/2q MB1 10-30 with Lucas oil (synthetic). Honestly i wont go back to RP due to the fact that piston slap/valvetrain noise never went away, i would hear it when engine dropped RPMs. MB 5-30 was a little better, but i felt alot of vibration at higher rpms. MB1 10-30 and lucas oil has made a noticable difference engine smoothness. Piston slap/valvetrain noise is gone after a few minutes. My car doesnt consume any noticible amounts of oil between changes, and i dont get any shavings on my plug. I used to change oil at quick car 9 years ago, and reps would come by and explain why their product is better. A amsoil rep came buy and explained the difference in Organic oil and Synthetics. He made it real simple. He said, Organic oil is imperfect its like a bottle of little pebbles that arent perfectly round. Synthetics are closer to perfect, they are like a bunch of little marbles almost perfect. Which would rather have between your wear surfaces? pebbles or marbles? Also synthetics tend not to shear and breakdown under extreme conditions as much. He also said, oils that are synthetic blends dont mix completely and the organic oils break down before the additives do. How much of this is fact? How much of it is trying to get us to sell thier product? Im not sure, i do know that synthetics are all around better. I just thought i would pass on some information passed to me by someone reputable. Best thing to do is research things for yourself. What works for me may not work for you.

z-ya

iTrader: (1)

Ls1's knock when cold due to improper piston clearence from gm as has been documented,not oil viscosity choice.And our pistons are hyperutectic cast which run a very tight clearence ,not forged as repoted eariler in this post.
When you have a tight clearence spec and your tooling is off a little, rattle rattle warranty battle.

KameleonTransAm

iTrader: (1)

Hmm...I just use M1 10W-40 Synthetic and have no problems. But to each his own I guess

5PONT7

Dude all you guys are freaking out!

I have used 10w30 Castrol GTX since day one on my 2001 SS and change it about every 3000 miles and have hod no problems

l337_haxs

iTrader: (1)

I have switched oil back and forth so many times. Not once have I had any problems. As with rpm ws6 switching oil doesn't cause a problem with the engine. Your engine is still getting lubed.

98ws61le

if i cant find the GCastrol or the BCastrol at autozone.. i will just order amsoil from here on out.... 5w40 euro formula.... mobil 1 as a blend is over priced