StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

I love RP so much that sometimes I get the urge to take a sip from the quart! When I did my last oil change I decided to try an AMSOIL that I had heard a lot about. Well didn't like what I saw on the drain plug after 2500 miles. There was lots of sludgey looking silver (miniscule metal particles) on the drain plug. Wel I went back to RP #41 and just did a change today after 3K miles
in which there was a cam install 500 miles ago. Well I expected to have something on the magnet especially due to the fact of what I saw at the last oil change. I was extremely pleased and surprised to find the plug pretty well clean as a whistle!! I have used this stuff for the last 5 years and will not try to switch again!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

hyde

You can Bypass all that and get it from North Texas LUbricants, in Dallas. They have a person who will bring it to you if you order enough...Wait till a couple of guys are going to change, and order some, Talk to Wylie, or Shannon tell them John Hyde sent you...

AlonzoVersion 1.0

That is all I use for my motor is RP.I can get it locally so that does help alot.

Magnus357

Well while I've never used Royal Purple oil, some recent oil anaylasis test done by Patman have reviled that Royal Purple isn't all that great of an oil. First of all, none of their non-race oils are truely fully synthetic. Secondly in the analysis done by Patman, Royal Purple broke down at a very rapid rate and contianed very little moly, which is a great anti wear agent. What I mean by braking down is that a 10w30 oil would almost be a 10w20 oil at only 1250 miles.

The better option from what I have seen is to use Red Line oils. They have a great additive package, and also have higer tempature resistance (not sure of the technical name). If you going to by an expensive "name brand oil" you might as well by the best.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

Dodger

I've seen Patman's posts, personally, I take them with a grain of salt. My RP oil anylasis after 6000 miles never look as bad as his do after 3k... I can get it locally too and see no reason to switch, with 63k miles my LS1 runs strong, emisions are very low, and mileage per tank is always 20+. Also, I never have any debris on my drain plug.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Royal Purple broke down at a very rapid rate and contianed very little moly </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Totally false. Perhaps in that analysis with that particular street oil , RP sheared back some but that could happen with any oil in certain circumstances. Royal Purple contains its fair share of moly along with a patented anti-wear additive that Redline doesn't and I would take RP over Redline any day of the week even if the Redline was offered to me for free! When you get into the race oils by RP , you are getting the best there is bar none and they will beat all others in the ball wear tests or <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> any other wear tests.AND they will dyno the MOST HP every time.

<small>[ July 29, 2002, 05:11 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>

TrahnZam WS6

Chalk up another satisfied RP user here. I also use Purple Ice, the transmission fluid and might switch to the rearend fluid.

<small>[ July 29, 2002, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: TrahnZam WS6 ]</small>

Magnus357

Dodger,

The Royal Purple test I am refering too wasn't even Patman's. I was only refering to his comments about the test. (See thread https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...;t=005635;p=1)

Why don't you take his seriously? He uses the same oil testing company that many others do, and if you check the web site of the company he uses, you can see that the man that runs it is very knowledgable about oils and their applications. Patman has really not tested enough random samples of every oil to perfectly statisticly sound; however, until someone has tested more oils in more differing situations, one has NO better option than to use the information he's provided. Why people continuously give Patman crap for his work on understanding oils past their hype and advertising is BEYOND ME! He is not brand specific (he use to pimp Mobil 1, but it's not as good as it use to be) and typically provides back up for his knowlegde.

StevieZ,

Totally false eh? I stand behind what I said about RP having less moly than the other expensive oils (read can't be bought off shelves at Walmart). In the aformentioned link to the thread were a person had their RP oil tested at 1250 miles, you can see another test result of Redline oil. Comparing the amount of moly in Redline vs. RP we get 443 ppm to 103 ppm. Obviously Redline has more moly in it, and while you mention RP's mystical patented "anti-wear additive package;" however, in the quanitative test no other elements show up. In fact, if you look once again at the Redline vs. RP comparison I made before the Redline has more Calcium, Potassium (RP doesn't even add this), Zinc, and phosphorous (which once again RP doesn't add). Keep in mind we are also comparing 1250 miles on the RP and about 4000 on the Redline.

RP also has a scary low flash point (around 400* F brand new) where as Redline's flashpoint with about 4000 miles on it is 460* F. Most of dyno oils have a higher flashpoint than RP.

And yes, RPs non-race oils are NOT fully synthetic. RP's web site will confirm this for you. Their race oils are fully synthetic; however, the race oils do not contain the anti-wear packages and detergants that street oils do.

About RP giving more HP. I won't argue with you there. It more than likely will, but only because it thins out as the heat and RPMs go up. A thining oil is NOT what you want as your engine spins up. Thinner oil = lower oil presure.

I personly run Mobil 1 because it is fully synthetic, resonablly priced, and preforms very well. You can go ahead and keep your RP if it makes you happy, but when I decided to put expensive oil in my car I know I'll be going with Redline.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

<small>[ July 29, 2002, 06:45 PM: Message edited by: Magnus357 ]</small>

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> Their race oils are fully synthetic; however, the race oils do not contain the anti-wear packages and detergants that street oils do.

</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Absolutely WRONG. Call Royal Purple yourself and they will confirm your error. The race oils have THE HIGHEST amount anti-wear additives and best detergents in any of their oils.They contain the best additive package period. PS: The flash point of the race oils is MUCH higher since they are designed to run with nitro methane and alchohol motors. As far as thinning with the higher temps giving more HP .WRONG All independant tests that were done with RP against other oils were done at full operating temps and if you ever did a hot oil change with RP# 41, you would see it is anything but "thinned out".The RP race oil is the BEST when it comes to anti-wear and it is the LACK of friction that is giving you your HP. You should not try and provide insight when you don't know the facts. Redline is definitely no slouch as oils go but I will take RP any day of the week. Mobil 1 in my opinion is absolute garbage although I do use it in my 93 Mazda winter beater because I can buy it at Walmart in a 5 quart jug for $13 when it is on sale!.

<small>[ July 29, 2002, 07:44 PM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>

Magnus357

StevieZ,

I'm very glad that you are so supportive of your oil, and if I have made a mistake about Royal Purple's race oils I will correct myself. I'm going to call them tomorrow. But by my defintion of race oil, it should have no detergents in order to further reduce friction. While this is not optimal for the street, in no hold bar racing it can be advantagous. I did however look at RP's web site, and I only found that they listed their "41" oil and not any other oils. So maybe their "race" oil is just renamed street oil.

Furthermore, I still disagree whole-heartedly with your statment about anti-wear. I showed you technical data where the RP lost out completely while still having less miles put on it. Until, you can give me some data to back up your claims I just can't take what your saying as fact.

About it thinning. . .once again refer to my data. In 1250 miles, a 10w30 had sheared back almost to the point of a 10w20 oil. This shows me that with high RPMs this oil thins, and not only that it doesn't return very close to it nominal state. I do NOT want a thinner motor oil in my LS1, which likes high RPMs and high oil preasrue. You tell people your opinion on what to run in their cars. I'll just give the facts and then let them decide.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

Patman

Trevor's oil analysis results with 10w30 RP with only 1250 miles on it simply did not look good at all. That oil already had 29% oxidation for one. I've seen oils with 10,000 plus miles on it that haven't oxidized this much yet. And it definitely thinned out, it was already at 9.5cst at 100c, once it hits 9.3 it officially qualifies as a 20 weight oil. The wear metals also looked rather high for such a very short interval too. And as mentioned, with only 100ppm or so of moly, it's about 4-5 times less than what Redline samples show. To me this oil doesn't look very impressive at all. It's all hype IMO. Their race oils might be better, but these street oils don't seem to cut it. Trevor is going to have another analysis done soon, so we'll see how the second results turn out.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> About it thinning. . .once again refer to my data. In 1250 miles, a 10w30 had sheared back almost to the point of a 10w20 oil. This shows me that with high RPMs this oil thins, and not only that it doesn't return very close to it nominal state. I do NOT want a thinner motor oil in my LS1, which likes high RPMs and high oil preasrue. You tell people your opinion on what to run in their cars. I'll just give the facts and then let them decide.
</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">You are talking about a street "blended synthetic" and I am talking about a race proven full synthetic. RP has 5 different race oils listed on their site and my opinion is based on my experience with the oil, not something I read on the internet. I was introduced to this oil by an Engineer who formulates oil additive packages at the ChevronTexaco Technology Beacon and he has forgotten more about oils than you and I and everyone on this board put together will ever learn.I took his recommendation about RP with no questions asked and have been happy ever since. As far as your "facts" go , one oil analysis from the first RP oil change in one car??? An oil which you have never even seen??? "Facts" you read on the internet??? Give me a break. Save up for your Redline and make it last 20K miles. I will continue using an oil that I KNOW works and has proven itself and I will, as of now stop wasting my time with this thread .

jimmypop13

iTrader: (17)

I like my Royal Purple 10w30 and I felt a power increase down low too, not just up high, especially when this power increase started the day I put it in. I'll try to get an oil analysis at 6,000 miles to find out how good it is for my motor.
Chris

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

StevieZ,
Here we go again. You certainly do have many opinions when it comes to oil. Notice how I stress "opinions" because I still haven't seen any of your facts. You dispute so-called "Internet facts" yet you espouse the benefits of 3000 mile oil changes, totally dismiss spectrographic oil analysis results, and use logic that sounds like "guys with money change their oil more often".

Based on the RP analyses and comparisons that I've been exposed to, they make a nice quality synthetic oil and that's pretty much it. To claim that Redline is a totally inferior product is downright wrong and misleading to those who might believe what you say.

Please do all of us a favor and present facts and data when making these claims. It makes it all so much more believable <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Blue Fire

i been running it for about 1 month now and never had no problem's anybody wanna hand any info out about it? or have any had bad problem's withżżżż it hade a diff when i put it in the car seem's it's a bit quicker on the foot and ET i never out it on the track sence than. this will be the first time using it on the track becide's Moble 1 5/30 super SYN. any 2 cent would be helpfull... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Angus

iTrader: (2)

I picked up 20 something more miles to the tank of gas without changing my driving habits. I love the purple stuff and I have it in 2 days to my door from Thunder Racing, so no need to go anywhere but under the car to change the filter.

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

Magnus357

StevieZ,

I'm really sorry we have to disagree on this and you deal with it this way. But when you resort to insulting me and agrandizing yourself, you not only decredit everything you say, but you also ruin a good debate. If you truely want to prove your point, change the opinion of the world, or just make me look stupid, all you have to do is get *SOME* evidence to try to convince me and the others that what you say is true. I agree my data is FAR from scientific, but as it come from a good source and doesn't seem out of question I have to believe what I've seen over some guy on the internet that may or may not have all the answers.

- Matt <img border="0" alt="[guns]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_guns.gif" />

Patman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by StevieZ:
As far as your "facts" go , one oil analysis from the first RP oil change in one car??? An oil which you have never even seen??? </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well that is one more fact than you have posted. This oil analysis was reported by one of the moderators on here, so he's not going to lie. By the way, it wasn't his first interval using RP either. Until you can post an oil analysis report backing what you say, you really have no evidence. I let the oil analysis results speak for themselves, you can talk all you want about what you heard, or about how some oil engineer guy told you this, or even about how you use something yourself with good results, but honestly, without the analysis results to back yourself up, it means nothing.

StevieZ

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Well that is one more fact than you have posted. This oil analysis was reported by one of the moderators on here, so he's not going to lie. </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Patman, you misunderstood the post. I didn't call anyone a liar. I am saying that Magnus is drawing conclusions from an oil that he himself has never used, held or even seen a bottle of.As far as the one analysis of the street oil goes, there are dozens of factors as to why oil will react one way in one car and another way in someone else's car. A/F ratio, style of driving,amount of blow by, gasoline additives all come into play, so the point I am trying to get across is don't draw conclusions from 1 analysis report.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I'm really sorry we have to disagree on this and you deal with it this way. But when you resort to insulting me and agrandizing yourself, you not only decredit everything you say, but you also ruin a good debate. If you truely want to prove your point, change the opinion of the world, or just make me look stupid, all you have to do is get *SOME* evidence to try to convince me and the others that what you say is true. I agree my data is FAR from scientific, but as it come from a good source and doesn't seem out of question I have to believe what I've seen over some guy on the internet that may or may not have all the answers </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Magnus , I am sorry if I insulted you but you came in on this thread making negative comments about an oil you have no experience with . Read my reply to Patman.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Here we go again. You certainly do have many opinions when it comes to oil. Notice how I stress "opinions" because I still haven't seen any of your facts. You dispute so-called "Internet facts" yet you espouse the benefits of 3000 mile oil changes, totally dismiss spectrographic oil analysis results, and use logic that sounds like "guys with money change their oil more often" </font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Fulton 1 Not true at all. I do not dismiss the merits of analysis, I dismiss drawing conclusions on an entire line of products from the analysis of one individual in one car. As far as facts are concerned, RP #41 is the ONLY oil I have used that leaves my drainplug clean. That is a visual fact that I personally call draw on since I have experience with RP, Redline, AMSOIL and Mobile 1. I have seen that with my own eyes and do not feel the need to prove it to you or anyone else.
I definitely have plans to do an analysis at the end of the season and I will not be shy to post results.

Blue Fire

well, im running it and never pulled my plug yet on it. so far it look's like a good oil i never did not test on it yet tho.it made a diff when i put it in as far as HP and i find with RP it's like right on the money. the Motor feel's a bit more tight kinda <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> maby there's a nother oil that's better out there. but so far due to people i hear some people come in the shop's and ask for it by name <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> anybody have a diff say sożżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżżż