We all know how long our power windows like to last. If you own an F-body, and havn't changed one yet, you will. It's just a matter of time. So here is how you do it. It would be easy if GM used screws instead of rivits to hold them on...and then didn't hide the rivits that hold them on. So here it is. Here is what you have to do, and where you have to drill.

1) First, remove the door panel.
-There are 5 phillips head screws, all of which are right around the door handle.
-The door panel should pop out around the egdes from here. It might take a little finess to get it off and around the handle that is connected to the door.

2) Next, there will probably be a piece of plastic tarred onto the inside of the door. You shouldn't have to take it all off...the tar will be messy. You can probably just cut out what you need to get to the power window motor.

3) Now you have to drill 3 holes through the fiberglass door, to get to the 3 rivits holding the power window motor on. Here is a pic of where you have to drill.



-The 3 circled holes are where you need to drill. You can use the larger rivits as a reference. Here is a closer pic.



-The bottom hole you need to drill is actually attached to a hole that is already there.
-The second hole you need to drill is about 2 3/4 inches up and over from the rivit next to the first hole you drilled. That is from the center of the rivit, to the center of the hole.
-The third hole you need to drill is about 1 1/2 inches up and over from the rivit above the first rivit you used for a reference. Again, thats from the center of the rivit, to the center of the hole.
-Its really not that complicated if you use the provided pictures as references.

4) Now you can see the 3 small rivits holding the power window motor in place. Drill them out. Once they are out, the motor pops right out. Just don't forget to pull off the wire harness attached to the top, forward part of the motor.

5) The new motor. Most new motors come with small screws and nuts, which is what GM should have used in the first place. Put the new motor in, attach the wire harness, and put the door back together.

- There you go. New window motor. Enjoy it...until the other side goes on you. Then you get to do this all over again. Hope this helps.

Maybe this should be a sticky with how often we have to change our window motors. If its not written up somewhere already.

 

Thanks for the write-up.

There is already a sticky:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....1&postcount=18
Its in the "Frequently Asked Questions" sticky in the "Stereo & Electronics" section.

I sent Richiec77 a PM about adding this to that sticky.

 

This is a great addition to

http://shbox.com/page/windowmotor.html

because it allows a much better view of where to drill the holes for the rivets. The pictures in the link above are way too close. I was able to do it but it was a bit of guessing still.

I get to enjoy doing the passenger side soon. Driver's side is running strong now but passenger is getting slower by the day.

 

Good Writeup. I know i'm going to have to change both motors soon

 

there's already a post up here https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/303776-frequently-asked-questions.html but I think more people would see it in this section! Not to mention these are easy to follow steps!

 

I said that already.... in Post #2. The link I posted is #17 in the sticky that you posted, which I explained in my post.

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BTW, I have not heard back from Richiec77 yet.

 

Just used this, thanks for the write up. You forgot to mention to pull the speaker out btw

 

Ugh what a pain. So much easier to do the motor and regulator as one piece.

 

I hope you're trolling, because it definitely is not.

 

This is what i used...lots of pics and it was easier the second time around..haha.

 

Yes it is. But thats coming from a guy who doesnt like drilling the fiberglass out of my "alreadyweakfromthefactory" door. I do them in less than an hour minus removing the door panel. 1 10mm bolt, 3 10mm nuts, 2 13mm nuts and 4 large rivets. Versus drilling into the door and risking that finger-lovin whoop *** spring coming loose. Then either way your pulling out the regulator...

~The Troll~

 

Brace the glass so it won't drop and you won't have any issue with the spring, this is how I did my passenger door last weekend, except I removed the plastic completely as the "tar stuff" is designed for this purpose, by the way thats called "acoustical sealant". I probably wouldn't have done the swap if I had to figure out how to remove the entire regulator or deal with any of the issues people seem to have after doing it that way.

 

Thanks for the photos. I have worked on these cars quite a bit, but it never hurts to have a quick find like this to make life easier!

 

Oh thats just bloody great. I drilled all the rivets out, including the large ones. Window came down, and I now have a scratched tint, not to mention that its going to take a lot of time and willpower to replace the window motor now. The arm has a tension spring(feels like it) and has to be pulled up and held in place, while trying to position the motor behind it, and also insert the screws to hold the stupid motor.

Too bad I didnt care to look up the instructions before starting the job. DO NOT drill out the large rivets that hold the arm, or you'll be sorry. I don't know what idiot designed these cars.

 

Very helpful. I was about 30 seconds away from drilling out the bug rivits, big time saver there. A little trouble getting the new holes lined up but all and all a pretty simple job.

 

Which window motor is the best to get? I have hookups at O'Riley's and Autozone.

 

Dorman brand. Cheapest on amazon.com

 

I think it's much easier to do it this way and NOT remove the entire assembly. And once the access holes are there, and the motor rivets are replaced with screws, future swaps are even more simple if need be.

Personally I'm not worried about drilling a few small access holes into an area that nobody will ever see and that cannot rust. I can't see how these holes would cause any significant weakening of the door structure as they are so small and in a central area. Anyway, mine had these access holes for years and the door never fell apart. I would do it this way again on future cars without a second thought.

 

I agree, easy fix hardest part is trying to get pannel back in.

 

So recently someone backed in to my driver side door. I found one same color which was not easy that will fit on my car but it is a Manuel window door mine is Power I need to know the steps to switch over and make it power as well any informtion would be be grateful thanks in advance.