Does the Air Dam actually help that much?
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The previous owner of my car took the air dam off, I guess because of the Sportlines making it so low that it scraped too much. I am trying to get my car running cool.. It runs around 220-225. I already replaced the thermostat, and I plan on a new water pump. First, is there a way I can narrow it down to being a crappy radiator or water pump without replacing parts first?
And like the title says, does the air dam actually help that much? if so, i need to get one!
And like the title says, does the air dam actually help that much? if so, i need to get one!
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From what I've read, the air dam is a much needed part to keep the car cool. I seen guys online cut it shorter, and their temps went up. That thing must be magic. I would install it and see if it makes a difference.
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Except I don't have one available right now.. I see they are about $50 shipped off ebay. Anyone have a lowered car and have problems with the air dam? Hell I have enough problems scraping without it!
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yeah mine scrapes all the time but it's not a problem, but it's really needed just like the other guys said. The air hits it and it's forced upward to the radiator, without it the air rushing under the car creates an air pocket in front of the radiator, since the bottom of the car is just about the only way it gets cool air, it's not getting any air rushing through it except for what the fans can pull
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Without that air dam the radiator is getting no air to it so it will always run hot and the fans will always run until you get that air dam back on. Don't change anything in the cooling system until its back on. The previous owner of the car was a retard.
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Ok, thanks a lot guys. I was figuring the same thing, especially since my car is sitting on Sportlines. Also this has made me curious. I have the WS6 hood on my car, but no airbox, its an SLP cold air. So the air just goes in over the motor. I am curious about taking off the radiator/fan shield on top, and possible rig up some scoop taking air to the radiator?... I'll build on that..
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True story! At highway speeds air rushing across the bottom of the car creates a low pressure area which actually PULLS hot air from inside the engine bay through the radiator and down through the opening just behind the front bumper. The fans being on aren't enough to overcome it and you end up with little to no airflow through the radiator. The air dam will force the air up though the radiator at highway speeds.
Do the temps stay lower durring in city "stop and go" type conditions? If the car is running hot all the time (i.e. slow speed or even at idle) then the air dam is not your only problem.
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I took mine off when I had my front bumper off. Forgot to put it back on. Drove 10 minutes and the car started running really hot. Put it back on and its fine.
Keep in mind I'm in Phoenix and during the day my car pretty much stays at 190-200 .
Keep in mind I'm in Phoenix and during the day my car pretty much stays at 190-200 .
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I pulled mine off on my 93 LT1, it ran hotter on the highway than usual. I couldn't believe it helped that much but it did. I would definately put one back on, but thats just .02.
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Brainstorm idea; GET RID OF THE SPORTLINES!! (unless you can't afford to replace them right now) They are one of the worst springsets for these cars, not enough rate for the travel, and even the BEST shocks out there cannot damp them properly. They are OK on a trailered, not driven, show only, "garage queen" for that "slammed" look, but are pure **** for car control/handling, safe street driving, or even 60 foots. FORGET ABOUT: driveways, speed bumps, having big aftermarket headers/y pipes, etc.!!! Of course now I'll have 15 trillion Sportline fans coming on here flaming the f*** out of me, saying how "perfect" these things are to/for them. Fine, but maybe they have NEVER driven an f body that was really dialed in as far as handling/steering response/control, etc., goes?? (And whether they realize it or not, they are driving around constantly on the bump stops, real great for handling/control.
)
BTW; my car is properly lowered/corner weighted with a Ground Control/Koni setup (NOT "slammed into the weeds"<--
) and yes, I scrape the airdam all of the time. But I would not drive around the block without the thing, let alone for ANY distance. When it wears out I get a new one from Dal (don't have the number handy) for $28.00 + ~$5.00 shipping. Very simple solution.
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BTW; my car is properly lowered/corner weighted with a Ground Control/Koni setup (NOT "slammed into the weeds"<--
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My car came with Sportlines. I plan to raise it up. The slammed look is not my style, although tons of people like it. I don't care.
What about the Pro Kit? I'll do springs first and then have shocks installed later. I don't autocross, just want a slightly lowered look at a decent price, not overkill, but not cheaping out.
BTW. I'll be ordering a new air dam from ebay ASAP.
What about the Pro Kit? I'll do springs first and then have shocks installed later. I don't autocross, just want a slightly lowered look at a decent price, not overkill, but not cheaping out.
BTW. I'll be ordering a new air dam from ebay ASAP.
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with a lowered car the airdam is still going to scrape against inclines and stuff but the part that scrapes is the very bottom of it and you really can't see that it's been scraped up all that much. mine still looks new and i've got prokit and used to be slammed on sportlines. believe me, that bitch would scrape on anything.
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with a lowered car the airdam is still going to scrape against inclines and stuff but the part that scrapes is the very bottom of it and you really can't see that it's been scraped up all that much. mine still looks new and i've got prokit and used to be slammed on sportlines. believe me, that bitch would scrape on anything.
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The air dam is just for cooling. It forces air up and over the radiator. Check with your local GM dealership most have air dams in stock and they usually run about $50 from GM.