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window movement after motor replacement

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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 11:22 AM
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Default window movement after motor replacement

OK so I replaced the passenger window motor and it was fine for the most part. But when it gets up to where it only has abut 3 more inches to go it gets really slow. So I left it alone because it was working. But i got in a fender bender and now the window will get stuck even going down. once it gets past the three inch mark it has no problems. The window moves alot from front to back on like a pivot(guessing window motor). What is in the door that stabilizes the window? The motor is not moving at all and is still bolted in tight.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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The window motor gear meshes with a gear on the window regulator. The window regulator is the part that actually lifts the window up and down in a scissor like motion.

The window attaches to the regulator on rolling guides. It is possible that one of these rolling guides has separated from the regulator causing the binding and the front to back tilting motion.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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So what would you recommend I do? Is the regualtor part of the window motor? and did it just come loose or will I need a new motor? thanks
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:00 PM
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anybody else?? i have everything off now and i cant figure it out. Its not the breaker in the motor. It will get stuck and then i will shut the door and it will move again. It seems like its getting worse the more I take stuff off. What could be binding?
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:03 PM
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The regulator is NOT part of the motor. It's difficult to see but look inside the door, maybe with a small mirror. You need to get an idea what we are talking about here. The window sits in a metal channel which is part of the regulator. It moves along this channel by means of these nylon rollers. the channel itself is part of the regulator, it works like a scissor jack, going from flat when window is down to X-shaped when window is up.

You will see the regulator and the channel in which these rollers move. Check the rollers along the full length of the window. Make sure they are all still inside the channel. Make sure the regulator gear is still meshed with the window motor gear.

Even new motors fail but since you mentioned binding, tilting and now lack of operation since the accident, I'm leaning towards a bind in the regulator arms or one of the rollers have slipped out of the channel. Good luck with this.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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ok thanks for your help. I'm going to check out what you just said.
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Old Feb 10, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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ok well the rollers stay in place throughout the full motion. I'm at a point now where I have realized that the window will work non stop up and down ONLY if I don't go all the way up or all the way down. I'm talking about like an inch away form stopping points. And what I am seeing when I go all the way up is the front of the window will contact the stop first and then the back will follow.Now to check the regulator. I think I know where it is and I believe I have to take off the motor to mess with it because it makes contact with the motor gears??? please correct me If I am wrong. Thanks for your help once again
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Old Feb 11, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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I had a similar problem because the metal brackets bolted to the top of the door were out of place. (They have felt pads on them that contact the window.) These pieces are involved in fitting the shut glass to the weatherstripping. If they are in to far, they will cause the window to bind as the window approaches the full shut position.

Did you adjust these pieces when you did your original motor replacement? Does the window behave differently when the door is open vs. shut? Does the rocking back and forth problem only happen at that 3" point?


I've had the back and forth problem with my windows as well. If just one of your top felt pads is pressing more than it should, you'll get this action. Lubricating the tracks and rollers with Syl-Glide (you can get it at Napa) may also help and the problem should work itself out once the door is adjusted properly.


BTW - If you are going to take out the regulator, I'd suggest getting detailed instructions first if you aren't familiar with the procedure. The regulator is loaded with a very powerful spring and will do bad things if you take it apart without the right precautions.
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