weberje

iTrader: (1)

I am sending my '98 Trans Am to the shop today to do an A/C diagnositc (with the dye). I suspect it will be the usual compressor problem. Guy quoted me $800-900 for a new one- they don't do remanufactured he says.

How difficult is it to change the compressor myself on a lift?

Special tools required?

Never done it before, however, I am mechanically inclined; just wanted to get another's opionion from those with more experience.

2SLOWT/A4NOW

Good advice about avoiding remans. Not hard to change if you have a lift. Your quote should include a receiver/dryer and orfice tube also. The rec/dryer will get contaminated while the system is open for comp replacement. The only problem with this as a DIY job is that most people lack the tools to do the job properly and try to get by with the quick fill cans from AZ, Advance, etc. After the system is repaired, you need to pull a vacuum for at least 1 hour if you use an old school vacuum pump. 10 or 15 min if you have access to a good A/C machine.

2SLOWT/A4NOW

Do not forget to put oil in the new compressor. Make sure it is the right kind and amount also. if a recall, the F bodies use PAG 100, Don't remimber the exact amount though. Also, don't over charge. This is a good case of more is NOT better.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Good advice, but off a little.
Old school vacuum pump vs A/C machine? LOL The "A/C machine" is just a roll around tool with a recovery/reclaim machine, charging scale, and vacuum pump in one "A/C machine"

In order to do the job right ...I don't know how many ******* time I need to type this **** because people can't even search a few days back!

Where does all the **** go that came out of the compressor to make the compressor bad? It gets into the condenser, and you can't flush it out so you need to replace it as well.
The system takes 9 ounces of PAG 150 oil, you can't just dump that in because how much oil is laying in the evaporator??? No one know, thats why the auto techs flush it out.
You need
a compressor
condenser
accumulator (these cars don't use recievers)
orifice tube
oring seal kit
AC system flush
9 ounces of PAG 150
24 ounces of 134a
a manifold gauge set
a vacuum pump

needadvice

This the 3rd time in 2 weeks I've posted this to threads about A/C.

I went to the local Pontiac dealership and paid $800 for a factory new compressor and whatever other parts they replaced in the system. Came with a LIFETIME 100% parts and labor warranty. I never have to worry about spending another penny on my A/C system.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Yea, I used to hate people that say do a search, but damn, if they go back a few pages they will see the several posts without even doing a search.

weberje

iTrader: (1)

Didn't mean to start a lynch mob or anything.... Thank you for your help nonetheless.

I did utilize the search engine, but let me restate my original question for those of you paying attention: I was asking the 'level of difficulty to remove and replace the compressor'
(quoted: "How difficult is it to change the compressor myself on a lift?")

I appreciate the LOI needed for the repair, but I am a Harrier Hydraulic and Structural Mechanic; not automotive mech. Just wanted some feedback; don't care about your complaining.

I think I've found the solution to my issue. Thanks for the replies.

needadvice

I've never personally tried to change a compressor, too much to know about the high-low pressure lines and things.

I was just saying, why not go to a dealership and let them do it for the same $800, it'll be done perfectly, and you should also get the LIFETIME parts and labor guarantee. No worries.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

And what is the solution?
You're asking to R&R a compressor, thats ONE component of a system.
It's not like a flat tire with a broken off valve stem--you don't just R&R the compressor and refill it with refrigerant.

So heres your answer
Oh hello good day weberje.
Changing the compressor isn't bad at all, just remove the two top bolts with a 15mm socket first, then put it up on the lift and remove the belt and the two bottom bolts. Hold it lower so you can get to the manifold bolt and remove that, and unplug the wire harness.
Reverse the instructions to install the new compressor.
Have a great day.

PS I see you're a Harrier Hydraulic mechanic?
I need to replace a cylinder, I can unbolt the old one and put the new one in place but is it necessary to refill the system with fluid or will it work without fluid? THANKS!

weberje

iTrader: (1)

To answer your question as an Airframes Instructor:
No, before disconnecting any lines, you would depressurize the nitrogen in the system(s) (primary flight or utility) supplying it a flow of fluid (it's "location"), then R&R the actuating unit, you will lose residual fluid in the local hydraulic lines and from the cylinder itself. Cap the lines to prevent contamination. It would be necessary to further "service" the hydraulic systems to re-fill them with hyd fluid to the amount required by the maintenance instruction manual. Follow on with a "final operations check" for a minimum of 5 cycles without failure (I usually go to 12).

Yes, I understand that by working on a pnuematic system that re-charging the fluids is necessary. Thank you for your assistance in this key point.

To give us all closure:
I re-charged the AC system last year via store bought can (complete with gauge). It ran cold all season- no probs.
This year, went to re-charge and like a "Dumas" used the SAME CAN as it still felt very full. The gauge on the can read it was good, so I assumed it was. Yesterday, when picking up my vehicle from the AC shop they said they found no leaks, and it only had an 1/8th freon it should have. They re-charged (while adding a dye) and it still runs beautifully today. Any further leaks should be visible by the dye and indicate the system malfunction.

I believe my can/gauge was the culprit. For my wallet's sake, I hope it is the case.

Again, thanks to all for your help and assistance in this matter.


-Semper Fidelis

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

You see my point, and your explaination is more thorough than mine (yet I've typed it a million times this month, so it was cut short)

But you get the point, theres more to it than R&R'ing the compressor.
I'd like to help, but I don't want to give incomplete information, I don't want to see you posting again saying your new compressor isn't working right.

What ever you do, don't skip out on using a vacuum pump. Maybe you know this, but I don't know.

Good luck. And if you have any questions at all post again or PM me.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

I really hate to highjack the thread, but i have the same problem here. I took my car to a shop today to diagnose the AC problem. Mechanic said my compressor itself is leaking and i need a new one along with the dryer.
His prices he gave me were:
$553 for the Compressor
$104 for the dryer
$300 for labor
And about $200 more for some miscellaneous things like refrigerant and oil and what not.
I decided that was too much and told him not to do it. I was thinking of maybe trying to get the parts myself for cheaper and installing them myself. But just to clarify before i get to involved, replacing the actual compressor and the dryer (removing the old, installing the new) only requires one or two standard wrenches correct? I am not going to charge the system myself. i figure i could save money by doing the bulk of the work myself. Is it worth it?
Oh and sorry for the

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Just do it all yourself.

Charge and all, just find someone with some AC tools.

bboyferal

iTrader: (9)

I found a guy around my block who runs an A/C shop.

His labor for all that is $150.00, including install of compressor, orifice tube, dryer, condensor, vacuum & fill.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Just for the heck of it.... You gots the vac the system.

ae13291

iTrader: (8)

a/c compressor is real easy to swap out, i had to technically remove it when i did my poly motor mounts, but i didnet disconnect the lines, in ur case u need to disconnect the main line

needadvice

Just to let you know, I just had a compressor failure last week. 3 year old brand new A/C Delco done at the dealership. Good thing I had it done at the dealer because they had to replace it for free, parts and labor. Thats why I say to go to the dealer. It cost me $800 3 years ago and it just paid for itself. And I still have the same warranty for life.

Its called a no brainer to go to the dealership for some things.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

i just never had a dealership charge less than ANY garage around me. dealership charged me $600 to fix a headlight problem a while ago. Granted the work will be done exactly right, its just so damn expensive. I seriously doubt a dealership around me is gonna charge much less. but i guess ill check.

needadvice

$600......HOLY ****.

My dealership charged me about $220 for a new headlight motor installed. With a warranty.

The A/C system replacement was $800 and I will never, as long as I own this car, have to spend 1 more penny on a failed A/C system again, no matter what happens. Its 100% warranteed for life, parts and labor. It was the best feeling to have my car there for 3 hours, they replaced the A/C compressor and whatever else, and I drove away without spending a dime. And my car is a 1998 WS6. Gotta love warranteed items.