Help Car Won't Idle!!!!
06-28-2008, 09:13 PM
#23
If you had a scanner like HPTuners or something you'd see whats going on. Maybe take it to someone who does. Otherwise you're just guessing, getting frustrated, and getting nowhere.
06-29-2008, 12:31 AM
#25
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Ive actually never had to do a relearn on a camaro, I know you do with the trucks and SUV's...
If it dies out, you just need to drive it, It takes a few miles for it to relearn, after the batterys been disconnected!
If it dies out, you just need to drive it, It takes a few miles for it to relearn, after the batterys been disconnected!
06-29-2008, 03:31 PM
#28
Somethings wrong somewhere. I was PM'ed about getting an engine computer for a 2001 set up so I could tune it with 2002 specific tuning stuff.
There was a big debate, people on here said a dealer could do it for me, 9 dealers said they couldn't, people on here said autozone, or another parts store could do it, 10-15 phone calls later no one could do it.
I found out there are a lot of people on here that don't know **** about reflashing VCM's for use in different vehicles so I said **** it and bought a used 2002 VCM for the same car I had, put it in my 2001, did a re-write with HPTuners. Car started up, didn't want to run for about 3-4 minutes and straightened right up and has been fine since.
It didn't meltdown like I was told, some jackass even told me by doing this I will kill the resale value of the car. Is that something an educated person says? WTF?
I'm not one to go 13 days with the same problem. I have two other vehicles to drive but if I couldn't get one running I'd get on it and figure out why pretty quick.
There was a big debate, people on here said a dealer could do it for me, 9 dealers said they couldn't, people on here said autozone, or another parts store could do it, 10-15 phone calls later no one could do it.
I found out there are a lot of people on here that don't know **** about reflashing VCM's for use in different vehicles so I said **** it and bought a used 2002 VCM for the same car I had, put it in my 2001, did a re-write with HPTuners. Car started up, didn't want to run for about 3-4 minutes and straightened right up and has been fine since.
It didn't meltdown like I was told, some jackass even told me by doing this I will kill the resale value of the car. Is that something an educated person says? WTF?
I'm not one to go 13 days with the same problem. I have two other vehicles to drive but if I couldn't get one running I'd get on it and figure out why pretty quick.
06-29-2008, 03:39 PM
#29
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well damn yea i have something else to drive in the mean time. i had a buddy hook it up to hptuners and looked like there were a couple thing with the tunes weren't just right like the map showing 98kps at idle which shouldn't be
06-29-2008, 03:42 PM
#30
06-29-2008, 04:10 PM
#32
You can hope all you want but kPa close to atmospheric pressure means theres a problem mechanically, a fairly big problem IMO.
Do a compression test, thats about the easiest thing you can do that should reveal a major mechanical problem. If the compression is good it could be a huge vacuum leak.
Do a compression test, thats about the easiest thing you can do that should reveal a major mechanical problem. If the compression is good it could be a huge vacuum leak.
06-29-2008, 06:12 PM
#34
Take the hose off the brake booster and plug it. I've seen the booster diaphrams go bad and cause an internal leak.
I'd do a compression test. When the engine was built how much piston to valve clearance did you have? Did you check the valvetrain geometry? (for correct pushrod length etc)
I'd do a compression test. When the engine was built how much piston to valve clearance did you have? Did you check the valvetrain geometry? (for correct pushrod length etc)
06-29-2008, 06:35 PM
#35
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Ok, I'm pretty sure this is right.
after you get the engine where it will idle and not stall:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll..with the A/C on MAX and high fan. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll...with the A/C "off". (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes idling in "Park".
Then go drive it for about 15-20 minutes. Then after about 50 miles of driving the PCM should be all set.
***I'm pretty sure thats it, but maybe a search shows it s a bit different.*****
after you get the engine where it will idle and not stall:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll..with the A/C on MAX and high fan. (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes in "drive" with the wheels blocked OR with the e-brake "on" so it won't roll...with the A/C "off". (not holding the foot brake)
then immediately:
5 minutes idling in "Park".
Then go drive it for about 15-20 minutes. Then after about 50 miles of driving the PCM should be all set.
***I'm pretty sure thats it, but maybe a search shows it s a bit different.*****
Sounds like a video game :
up up, down down left right , left right, B, A, select, Start.
felt like a jackass after hours of troubleshooting...
06-30-2008, 09:43 PM
#40
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well got intake and valve covers off and saw where the intake gasket looked like they were'nt fitting right. i used some frl-pro gaskets they r the square looking ones not the catherdral ones would that make a difference?