SS 8 years old should I flush the Radiator?
#1
SS 8 years old should I flush the Radiator?
I am the third owner so I have no idea if it has ever been flushed but it still has the orange dex cool in it. I suppose you all are going to say yes flush it but I always read threads on here where people flush it out and their car runs hot from getting air in the system. Also should I get this?
Prestone Radiator cleaning kit.
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u278234
Prestone Radiator cleaning kit.
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/u278234
#3
#4
umm I'm not sure about an LS1 but I'm sure there are guides for other cars that are pretty much the same, radiators don't differ too much. I've only ever flushed a Dakota, Grand am GT, and old mazda/honda's radiators. Can't speak for the LS1 though.
#5
Its just about the easiest thing you can do for preventative maintenance.
This is how I've been doing it to my LSx for 10+ years. There's a bunch of different ways to do it, I like this one. My 427ci stroker stays cool as a cucumber like this. There's also kits you can buy that flush the system but I've never tried one.
Things to buy BEFORE you start:
1) New petcock valve, sometimes they break off. They're like $3.00.
2) Bottle of radiator cleaner (not flush, get the cleaner) This is optional unless you can see a build-up of grime throuigh the radiator cap into the radiator.
3) One bottle of "water wetter".
4) 3 gallons of distilled water from the food store.
5) One jug of Dexcool.
When the engine is cold, take the radiator cap off and open the drain plug (petcock valve) on the bottom of the radiator. Let the radiator drain completely.
Close the drain plug and fill the radiator with hose water.
Start the engine and stand there until the coolant starts to flow after the t-stat opens. You might want to bounce back and forth looking at your temp gauge just to make sure its not overheating.
As soon as the coolant starts to flow and the coolant looks all dark again, shut the engine off and drain the radiator again. Fill it again with hose water, close the drain plug and start the engine back up until it flows again, then drain the dark coolant again. Repeat this until the coolant is all clear and flowing. Usually takes me about 5 times and about 15 minutes. ***If you let it flow for just 2 minutes more after it starts to flow each time, that's pretty good as the new clean water and the dark older coolant will have traded places from the radiator to the engine.*** ***On the last time you do it, after the water starts to flow again, open the drain plug with the engine "still running" and let the radiator drain and also let it run for a minute more or so after the radiator looks empty....this will get most of the water out of the engine, but not all of it.***
Close the drain plug and fill the radiator back up with half a jug of Dexcool, the bottle of water wetter and the rest with the distilled water. Then start the engine back up and again wait till you see the coolant start to flow and the level in the radiator will drop down. Keep filling it up with the distilled water until the level doesn't drop anymore. Do this until the coolant flows and then stops, then flows again when the t-stat is opening and closing. You will know there are no air bubbles when the t-stat opens and closes and the coolant flows but the level does not drop down.
Thats it.
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#8
The only thing you can do to get screwed is to NOT bounce back and forth checking your temp gauge while you're waiting for the t-stat to open. In the million-to-one event that the t-stat does not open you're gonna be standing there while your waiting for it to open and the car is gonna overheat right in front of you.
#11
Water wtter does alot of things, but mainly the way it keeps the water/coolant temps lower is by keeping air bubbles from forming around the hotter surfaces (hot spots) inside the coolant passages mainly in the heads and around the cylinders where the heat is high. The bubbles attach to the metal surfaces and steals that surface area from the heat to transfer to the coolant. If those bubbles are kept to a minimum or eliminated, the heat transfer area of the hot metal surfaces to the coolant is greater, so you have better cooling of the coolant.
#13
coolant in a sealed system, stock engine, can easily go 100,000 miles. But I do flush mine every 2 years, but thats because I remove my radiator to clean my condensor every 2 years.
#14
I went with needadvice method because I did not want to cut the heater hose. I poured cleaning fluid in then filled everything up. Let reach running temp then turned on defrost and let run for ten min. Going to drain it soon...
Only thing is which hose do I pull of when filling with dex to make sure I don't get air in the system?
Only thing is which hose do I pull of when filling with dex to make sure I don't get air in the system?
#18
I went with needadvice method because I did not want to cut the heater hose. I poured cleaning fluid in then filled everything up. Let reach running temp then turned on defrost and let run for ten min. Going to drain it soon...
Only thing is which hose do I pull of when filling with dex to make sure I don't get air in the system?
Only thing is which hose do I pull of when filling with dex to make sure I don't get air in the system?
And NO, you do not need to have a radiator shop clean your radiator and you do not need a new one. The only way I would say to have it cleaned professionally is if you can put your finger in through the radiator cap and dark nasty grime won't rub off the internal metal ribs.