208,000 miles too much? (great deal possibly?)
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: cincinnati, ohio
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
208,000 miles too much? (great deal possibly?)
I've got an opportunity to pick up a 98 Z28, M6, for 2500 bucks. Only caveat, really, is that it has 208,000 miles.
There are a few issues:
passenger window motor
AC compressor.
shocks/springs
front bumper cover
Fortunately though, I know the car's history. My brother bought it back in 2002 with 34,000 miles. He's done the routine maintenance (oil changes etc).
What else will I need to check for with a car with mileage this high?
There are a few issues:
passenger window motor
AC compressor.
shocks/springs
front bumper cover
Fortunately though, I know the car's history. My brother bought it back in 2002 with 34,000 miles. He's done the routine maintenance (oil changes etc).
What else will I need to check for with a car with mileage this high?
#3
TECH Resident
iTrader: (148)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Crete, NE & Berthoud, CO
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if your planning on building a badass setup, i say its a good candidate. if your planning on just having a fun street car i say stay away. 208,000 is alot, but if properly maintained it might run and drive fine. if you start throwing mods at a car that is this used. your definitly going to have a car that will nickel and dime you to death as things are going to start breaking.
If going with a new motor/trans, and rear setup....why not!
If going with a new motor/trans, and rear setup....why not!
#4
On The Tree
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, as long as it hits well and everything is in good shape i don't think mileage even matters. I mean how many low mileage cars have you seen that are struggling to exist. It's all about how the car was cared for and how hard it was driven. but hey, that's just my opinion. I always assume the worst, hope for the best.
#5
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tha Cuntree
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought a 2001 formula with 170k miles so I have a little bit of experience with this topic. I did have to replace the trans (1,300) and rear end (400) and I also had to replace the A/C compressor (about 800). So expect to shell out some money especially if you intend on driving it with a heavy foot. My car now has 182k but is strong and seems to be doing just fine.
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Narnia
Posts: 2,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I bought a 2001 formula with 170k miles so I have a little bit of experience with this topic. I did have to replace the trans (1,300) and rear end (400) and I also had to replace the A/C compressor (about 800). So expect to shell out some money especially if you intend on driving it with a heavy foot. My car now has 182k but is strong and seems to be doing just fine.
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Cairo, GA
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
that'd be the kind of car i'd get if i was planning big things for it, like motor/trans/rear swap and all that. i don't know about getting it for a DD though. but you never know, there are cars out there with more miles that that with less problems than some cars have with under 100,000.
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (19)
If it is in fact original plan on replacement. These cars wear and replacing parts is a fact or sports car life.
If you don't have all the tools to replace the engine at a later date by yourself look for another car. Because for the price of the labour and engine together you could go for a lower mileage, "newer" car.
One of my friends just replaced the engine in his truck and he started from 0 tools. He spend over 3.000,00 from start to almost finished. That price was with 0 dollars charged for all the labour and free advice with engines and wiring.
Just a simple thought or two. Trying to help you decide!
But do let us know what you end up doing.
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (15)
I bought my car with 170K on it for $4900. It was mint, loaded, looked like it had 50K miles on it and I'm at 177K now with out any problems. I've taken the car to the track twice and ran a best of 13.03@109.8mph so the engine is still strong. I've also had it put on a dyno. Everything is holding up fine. It's hit and miss with every car, but the LS1 is a really strong engine and so is the t-56 so I wouldn't worry too much.
#11
i did like njnetsfan, bought mine with 165000 for 4900, ive only had it for a few weeks but have put over 2000 miles since, runs strong and quiet. trans shifts good and solid. hell even starts right up. If your confident with the car and how solid it is id say go for it.
whats your bro asking for it?
whats your bro asking for it?
#13
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
**** pple pay that much sometimes for a good roller only (no motor/tranny). One time i paid almost $2000 for a '98 Trans Am with no motor/transmition so in other words, yes buy it lol The body has to be in good shape, i mean you cant complain about a couple scratches here and there but if its solid like everyone said above, id say jump on it quick!! Worst case you can always sell the motor/tranny while they're good and use that money to buy new or lower mileage components that are more high performance ready (ie. built tranny, built motor, or new motor stroked/bored out, new tranny etc etc) ALl depends on what you want out of the car
#14
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Stank Cloud, FL
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
if he bought it with 34,000 he drove the hell out of it. If you know the car and its maintenance then go for it! My 94 Z has 211,000 on it and is still very strong. It was very well maintained mechanically and anytime a light came on it was fixed. Mileage is only a number when they are taken care of.
#15
On The Tree
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Tha Cuntree
Posts: 116
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not even sure the engine is original. I think it probably was replaced too at some point because it doesn't run like it has 180k on it. It is strong and just looks like a newer engine. I wish there was an easy wasy to tell without removing parts to find engine numbers.
#16
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Plainfield, CT
Posts: 10,520
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jump on it. worst case senario is the engine blows and you sell the roller for $2K.
I would plan on a stroker right away for a $2,500 car.
even if you go 370 iron block for $2500 and a set of cheap *** PP heads for $600 used and a $300 cam. Bad *** street car for under $6K
I would plan on a stroker right away for a $2,500 car.
even if you go 370 iron block for $2500 and a set of cheap *** PP heads for $600 used and a $300 cam. Bad *** street car for under $6K
#18
10 Second Club
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: 3rd coast
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do it, I got 190,000 on mine. Just save your money for stuff that you HAVE to have like the drivetrain, f*** a window
Just be aware, once you start modding at hotrodding (adding HP) stuff will start to break. If u need a car just to drive, just don't hot rod it and it will be fine. If you decide to start modding, be prepared to be in it for the long run.
I got mine with 140K miles. I put 30K on it of easy driving with noproblems. Swapped a ls6 H/C/I and sprayed it a little, and the rear and trans gave out.
With 200K, when you fix something, fix it right the first time, replace the entire part asssembly if possible.
Just be aware, once you start modding at hotrodding (adding HP) stuff will start to break. If u need a car just to drive, just don't hot rod it and it will be fine. If you decide to start modding, be prepared to be in it for the long run.
I got mine with 140K miles. I put 30K on it of easy driving with noproblems. Swapped a ls6 H/C/I and sprayed it a little, and the rear and trans gave out.
With 200K, when you fix something, fix it right the first time, replace the entire part asssembly if possible.