AIR Removal? Pros? Cons?
AIR Removal? Pros? Cons? Just wonderin wat id be lookin at if i were to remove my AIR pump...also if you've ever messed with it any advise? how easy is it and where can i get the block off plates?
i have FLP long tubes with AIR block off plates , i removed my A.I.R and pump, with the long tubes and no AIR , the car defently takes longer to warm up and heat up the O2's but no problems otherwise,
You can maybe get the block off plates from thunder racing thats where i got mine.
You can maybe get the block off plates from thunder racing thats where i got mine.
I was told by a reputable header company not to block them off. They said that the tubes on the headers can break off if they are blocked off, but for some reason do not when they are hooked up.
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You have to tune it out, I purchased the block off kit from SpeedInc. and removed the pump and tubing associated with it. Never looked back, no issues heating up and I replaced my 02's a while back due to premature failure which is common with LT's and not to blame on the EGR/AIR system.
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From: Philly
This is the reason why I haven't removed my AIR system yet. It's already been tuned out and I've had the block-off plates for almost a year and a half along with a plug for my lid. I'm just afraid of the tubes blowing off. I should have bought the race version. I would have saved money, too
They break off because 500 degree air moving rapidly out of the engine at high pressure is pushing against the block-off plate when they're blocked off. Eventually, years of high temperatures and high pressure weaken the little tiny tubes, which are by far the weakest link in the headers. In some cases, the tubes blow off. It doesn't happen when they're not blocked off because that pressure escapes through the AIR system. There is no pressure build-up.
This is the reason why I haven't removed my AIR system yet. It's already been tuned out and I've had the block-off plates for almost a year and a half along with a plug for my lid. I'm just afraid of the tubes blowing off. I should have bought the race version. I would have saved money, too
This is the reason why I haven't removed my AIR system yet. It's already been tuned out and I've had the block-off plates for almost a year and a half along with a plug for my lid. I'm just afraid of the tubes blowing off. I should have bought the race version. I would have saved money, too
There is no cons to removing the AIR system, other than a pesky SES light. Which can easily be fixed with a basic tune.
It does not effect performance, 02 function, or anything else. The AIR pumps sole purpose is to pump "clean" air back into the exhaust before it exits the vehicle, for cleaner emissions.
It does not effect performance, 02 function, or anything else. The AIR pumps sole purpose is to pump "clean" air back into the exhaust before it exits the vehicle, for cleaner emissions.
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From: Philly
you could always take the headers off, take them to someone reputable and have them cut the emission tubes off and weld the holes shut, then grind the weld down and polish it... presto, you now have the race version and don't have to worry about those lowsy tubes breaking off. i bought my car used and the tube broke off the second day i had her and that was with the AIR system still on.
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From: Philly
There is no cons to removing the AIR system, other than a pesky SES light. Which can easily be fixed with a basic tune.
It does not effect performance, 02 function, or anything else. The AIR pumps sole purpose is to pump "clean" air back into the exhaust before it exits the vehicle, for cleaner emissions.
It does not effect performance, 02 function, or anything else. The AIR pumps sole purpose is to pump "clean" air back into the exhaust before it exits the vehicle, for cleaner emissions.
They break off because 500 degree air moving rapidly out of the engine at high pressure is pushing against the block-off plate when they're blocked off. Eventually, years of high temperatures and high pressure weaken the little tiny tubes, which are by far the weakest link in the headers. In some cases, the tubes blow off. It doesn't happen when they're not blocked off because that pressure escapes through the AIR system. There is no pressure build-up.
This is the reason why I haven't removed my AIR system yet. It's already been tuned out and I've had the block-off plates for almost a year and a half along with a plug for my lid. I'm just afraid of the tubes blowing off. I should have bought the race version. I would have saved money, too
This is the reason why I haven't removed my AIR system yet. It's already been tuned out and I've had the block-off plates for almost a year and a half along with a plug for my lid. I'm just afraid of the tubes blowing off. I should have bought the race version. I would have saved money, too
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From: Philly
But the check valves are further up in the system. The check valves are located several inches above the header, meaning the point of greatest pressure will be located against the check valve and several inches off the header, not inside the header itself. When you add block-off plates, it'll relocate the point of greatest pressure to inside the actual header itself. That point of greatest pressure will be against the block-off plate, inside the emissions tube on the header, instead of several inches outside the header emissions tube. I personally believe this is what makes the emissions tubes break. When the block-off plates are on, the pressure inside those tiny emissions tubes is much greater, which increases the chance of failure.
But the check valves are further up in the system. The check valves are located several inches above the header, meaning the point of greatest pressure will be located against the check valve and several inches off the header, not inside the header itself. When you add block-off plates, it'll relocate the point of greatest pressure to inside the actual header itself. That point of greatest pressure will be against the block-off plate, inside the emissions tube on the header, instead of several inches outside the header emissions tube. I personally believe this is what makes the emissions tubes break. When the block-off plates are on, the pressure inside those tiny emissions tubes is much greater, which increases the chance of failure.
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Originally Posted by Damian
There is no cons to removing the AIR system, other than a pesky SES light. Which can easily be fixed with a basic tune.
It does not effect performance, 02 function, or anything else. The AIR pumps sole purpose is to pump "clean" air back into the exhaust before it exits the vehicle, for cleaner emissions.
It does not effect performance, 02 function, or anything else. The AIR pumps sole purpose is to pump "clean" air back into the exhaust before it exits the vehicle, for cleaner emissions.
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
I think that's the EGR system you're thinking of. The AIR pump's sole purpose is to inject warm air into the exhaust until operating temps are met so the cats heat up faster since cats don't work when they're cold. After the car warms up - I think when it hits 160 degrees? - the AIR pump shuts down.
Air Injection Reaction injects clean air into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any remaining hydrocarbons, reducing emissions. AIR systems were around before the catalytic converter became mandatory. The AIR system may aid in heating the catalyst, but that is not the intended function.
Exhaust Gas Recirculation diverts some of the engine's exhaust back into the intake stream to dilute the oxygen rich mixture. In doing so, combustion temperatures are lowered to a level that produces fewer NOx emissions.
As for the weak tube design, virtually all headers I have seen place the tube directly on top of the primary, a spot any competent welder could easily repair should it break as you describe. But hey, it's your car to do what you wish with.
I think that's the EGR system you're thinking of. The AIR pump's sole purpose is to inject warm air into the exhaust until operating temps are met so the cats heat up faster since cats don't work when they're cold. After the car warms up - I think when it hits 160 degrees? - the AIR pump shuts down.
The EGR, or Exhaust gas recirculation valve, is what recycles warm air back into the intake. Not the air pump.