TPIS 90mm LS6 Intake Pics
I have posted my test results when comparing an LS6 (very similar to the TPIS version) to a ported aluminum Weiand. The Weiand had an 87mm opening & the LS6 an 87mm opening. Both had 85mm throttle bodies. The amount of air moving through the MAF was recorded. Don't remember the exact numbers, but the LS6 moved 8% more air mid-rpms & then 4% @ high-rpms all the way until airflow was limited by valvetrain speed, just over 6,300 RPM. Mods in signature. Had the Weiand been stock, the numbers would have been even greater. The 90mm LS6 mod is for real.
Engine mods are 30 lb SVO's, Tea 5.3's Stage 1.5, Comp Cam .589/.597 230/236, HS Rockers, SW Headers, TD's w/H, !Air, !EGR, ASP Pulley, HP Tuners. I'm adding a UMI 90mm TB, 85mm MAF and a Fast Toys lid. I don't personally know anyone that has this, but know a few guys here have posted that they have one. I like the idea of streetabilty and I like the rpm range of the LS6 and I like the durabilty of it too. I don't have to worry about the MAP sensor leaking or falling off like the FAST. I don't want to or need to rev to 7000 rpm for power. I want to keep the velocity high and the power band reasonable. Not sure about the power gains. All I have to go by is TPIS advertisements and you know how that can be manipulated. 
I installed one of these on a 2000 WS6 M6 with heads/cam and i was shocked how
much this intake works. When i ask people what they gains in the 1/4 with a FAST i dont
get an answer...lol. But i expect the TPIS would be good for 15 rwhp without loosing any
low end. And it only cost $350 if you send in your intake and wait to get it back. Much better deal than FAST for same or better gains.
much this intake works. When i ask people what they gains in the 1/4 with a FAST i dont
get an answer...lol. But i expect the TPIS would be good for 15 rwhp without loosing any
low end. And it only cost $350 if you send in your intake and wait to get it back. Much better deal than FAST for same or better gains.
The original 90mm Fast intakes have problems with the MAP (not MAF) sensor hole not sealing real well. They have since fixed this issue on newer models I hear. I found out after I installed the intake last night the reason the TB opening is angled up so much is to clear the water pump.
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Verdad Gallardo I barely have real world driveway results much less dyno or track results. 
I am having big time issues getting this bitch tuned again. My IAC counts start high when cold and end up at 2-4 after warmed up. Playing with the TPS and throttle blade do nothing. I even went back to my stock tune with no change. Everything points to a nice vacuum leak but after removing and replacing the PCV hoses and my catch can and even using propane gas at all manifold joints, no leaks were found. I said screw it and will be taking the intake off again to do some vacuum test on it off of the engine. Also, I ordered a Polluter cam just to make myself feel better about the whole ordeal. 
I am having big time issues getting this bitch tuned again. My IAC counts start high when cold and end up at 2-4 after warmed up. Playing with the TPS and throttle blade do nothing. I even went back to my stock tune with no change. Everything points to a nice vacuum leak but after removing and replacing the PCV hoses and my catch can and even using propane gas at all manifold joints, no leaks were found. I said screw it and will be taking the intake off again to do some vacuum test on it off of the engine. Also, I ordered a Polluter cam just to make myself feel better about the whole ordeal. 
Not sure what revving to the moon means, but the intake and cam will match each other ok IMO. Revving to 6200-6300 is not a big deal which is about where both parts seem to level out on making power. The intake can go a little higher than that if you believe the TPIS dynos.
I barely have real world driveway results much less dyno or track results. I am having big time issues getting this bitch tuned again. My IAC counts start high when cold and end up at 2-4 after warmed up. Playing with the TPS and throttle blade do nothing. I even went back to my stock tune with no change. Everything points to a nice vacuum leak but after removing and replacing the PCV hoses and my catch can and even using propane gas at all manifold joints, no leaks were found. I said screw it and will be taking the intake off again to do some vacuum test on it off of the engine. Also, I ordered a Polluter cam just to make myself feel better about the whole ordeal.
I am having big time issues getting this bitch tuned again. My IAC counts start high when cold and end up at 2-4 after warmed up. Playing with the TPS and throttle blade do nothing. I even went back to my stock tune with no change. Everything points to a nice vacuum leak but after removing and replacing the PCV hoses and my catch can and even using propane gas at all manifold joints, no leaks were found. I said screw it and will be taking the intake off again to do some vacuum test on it off of the engine. Also, I ordered a Polluter cam just to make myself feel better about the whole ordeal. Re-scale the MAF table. Also, have a look @ ECT & IAT spark.
I rescaled the MAF table using the settings for the Truck ZL1 02 MAF. It actually was running pretty good and did drive it to work a few days to get some miles on it but I never could get the IAC counts inline. Didn't have that problem with the old setup. I will check the other tables you mentioned. Thanks!
I rescaled the MAF table using the settings for the Truck ZL1 02 MAF. It actually was running pretty good and did drive it to work a few days to get some miles on it but I never could get the IAC counts inline. Didn't have that problem with the old setup. I will check the other tables you mentioned. Thanks!
To properly re-scale the MAF @ idle, the STFT's should be within 0 to -3% @ idle, then follow the % increased during idle through the rest of the table. The "desired airflow" settings need to increased because the airflow through the IAC has increseasd per count, as a result of the intake manifold change. May sound strange because the count value hasn't changed, but is the case. Even a less restrictive air filter can effect matching the idle "desired airflow" to actual.
Once the MAF table is re-scaled as noted, your engine will achieve the maximum benefit of the intake modification.
I'm still learning and figuring out the tuning lingo and all the charts and tables. The only thing I've done to my tune for the intake, tb and maf change was to upload the maf frequency tables from a ZL1 02 maf. The stft's are averaging -5 to -1 in the idle range for the little bit of driving I've done since the upgrade. One thing that has me concerned with the low iac counts is I can disconnect my throttle and cruise control linkage and close the tb blade all the way with the set screw and the thing runs the same, this is without a hole in the blade. The rpms stay the same and so do the iac counts. I can force an iac count up or down using VCM Controls and and the iac position and the desired position both follow right along with the same value up and down. Doesn't this sound like a pretty decent vacuum leak and not a tune issue?
^^
Could be. As long as changing the desired airflow table doesn't make it idle differently, a vacuum leak seems possible. The "desired airflow table" isn't counts, it defines the airflow expected @ varying ECT (engine cooling temperature) while in gear & then while in park/neutral. It's related to coolant temperature, not Idle air control position. Do you have EFI Live?
Do you have breathers on the valve covers & the PCV hooked up to the intake?
With the car @ operating temperature & sitting still, is where you want to confirm the STFT's. If this is what you mean by "for the little bit of driving, then I'd say you're MAF table is close. Maybe decrease the whole table by 2% ish. The MAF table is what will allow the benefit of the 90mm inlet change. Has less effect on idle, but could have been a contributor. It can now be ruled out as part of an idling issue.
Could be. As long as changing the desired airflow table doesn't make it idle differently, a vacuum leak seems possible. The "desired airflow table" isn't counts, it defines the airflow expected @ varying ECT (engine cooling temperature) while in gear & then while in park/neutral. It's related to coolant temperature, not Idle air control position. Do you have EFI Live?
Do you have breathers on the valve covers & the PCV hooked up to the intake?
With the car @ operating temperature & sitting still, is where you want to confirm the STFT's. If this is what you mean by "for the little bit of driving, then I'd say you're MAF table is close. Maybe decrease the whole table by 2% ish. The MAF table is what will allow the benefit of the 90mm inlet change. Has less effect on idle, but could have been a contributor. It can now be ruled out as part of an idling issue.
Also, your STFT's are adding more fuel than there is air. So, it's doubtful that there is a vacuum leak; vacuum leak being un-measured air entering the engine. For clarification, -1 to -5 STFT (short term fuel trim) means that the PCM is pulling (reducing) fuel because the mix is rich. If the mix were lean, a vacuum leak could be the cause.
I'm running the updated '04 valley plate with the built in pcv orifice. It's plugged into a RevXtreme catch can and then goes to the intake port. The TB port goes to the passenger side valve cover and both holes are plugged on the back of the vc's. No filters. I removed the catch can to make it wasn't the culprit. I even pulled a vacuum on it to make sure it sealed. I will do some more tweaking on the desired air flow table and will continue this problem if need be in the correct PCM forum. I just received the Dan Maslic tuner book, so will do some more experimenting before I rip it all out. Thanks for the help LS1-450!