Problems after LT's & ORY installed...
Problems after LT's & ORY installed... So me and my friends just installed my BBK Longtubes & ORY this passed sunday. Which took us about 6 hour's, but since the install. Ive been having a couple problems/questions i need to ask and get answered.
Just to be clear, new Motor Mounts will stop the Y Pipe from banging the floorboard right??
Now my other problem is with start up. It starts up fine when the engine's nice and cool, but when driven around either while taking a cruise or just going to the store. It struggles to start back up. Basically, when the engines been warmed up it's doing this problem. Ive checked the battery which is no more then 2 months old at the moment, and is a red top Optima battery. ive checked the plug wires, which are new MSD wires. Driverside Rear O2 Sensor wasnt connected, due to not reaching the y pipe which has the O2 bungs in it but i got it connected today thinking maybe that could be the reason but its still doing the same thing. Do you guy's know what it could be?? I dont have new plugs, going to order some NGK's here in a few. Could that be the problem for it not firing right up???
Just to be clear, new Motor Mounts will stop the Y Pipe from banging the floorboard right??
Now my other problem is with start up. It starts up fine when the engine's nice and cool, but when driven around either while taking a cruise or just going to the store. It struggles to start back up. Basically, when the engines been warmed up it's doing this problem. Ive checked the battery which is no more then 2 months old at the moment, and is a red top Optima battery. ive checked the plug wires, which are new MSD wires. Driverside Rear O2 Sensor wasnt connected, due to not reaching the y pipe which has the O2 bungs in it but i got it connected today thinking maybe that could be the reason but its still doing the same thing. Do you guy's know what it could be?? I dont have new plugs, going to order some NGK's here in a few. Could that be the problem for it not firing right up???
Poly motor mounts will cure the bangin Y-pipe. As for the start up, Is it cranking over strong and just taking a bit to fire up, or is it cranking weak similar to having a low battery?
It's similar to a low battery, i have to push on the gas pedal to help it start up from time to time. Other times it like barely catches on start up and then get's going like a normal start.
Yeah, rear 02's won't effect performance. Honestly it seems electrical if your getting the "weak battery" type symptoms, like a wire or something that got messed up is causing your symptoms when it gets hot and fails. As far as that you'll have to wait for some more knowledgable guys to chime in and help you, good luck
Fuel Pump?? I hadnt thought about that, but it never did this before the install. I dont think it's a weak battery, battery gauge still marks good. Not low or anything.
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your starting problem could be a starter on its way out. With the added heat around the started it might be suffering from heat soak. Its hard to tell these sorts of things without having a very accurate description or hearing the car trying to start.
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Ill try and get my sister's camera and record it tomorrow. If i took the car to Autozone and got them to check the car. Would anything like the Fuel Pump or Starter throw a code that will show up? I have the SES light on, but i dont have any cats on either. So i know its on for that.
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Verdad Gallardo check the code anyway. ive been in that situation. a problem arose while the light was on for EGR/cats.
does it crank steady and consistant and just takes awhile to kick on? if so then its probably a fuel pump. try this: turn the key on to prime the pump for a few seconds, then off, then on again for a few more seconds, then off, then try it. if it fires right up its your fuel pump.
if it cranks really slow and then fires up its probably a battery. you should actually get a multimeter on it and check the voltage with everything off and then check it while cranking. know for sure.
starters dont go out too frequently on our cars. did you mess with it during your header install and forget to tighten something up?
does it crank steady and consistant and just takes awhile to kick on? if so then its probably a fuel pump. try this: turn the key on to prime the pump for a few seconds, then off, then on again for a few more seconds, then off, then try it. if it fires right up its your fuel pump.
if it cranks really slow and then fires up its probably a battery. you should actually get a multimeter on it and check the voltage with everything off and then check it while cranking. know for sure.
starters dont go out too frequently on our cars. did you mess with it during your header install and forget to tighten something up?
No i dont think any of us messed with the starter during installation of the LT's. Ill do what you said for the fuel pump, but aslong as the engine's cold. It seems to fire right up easily, once ive cruised around and try to start it up again after a few minutes of sitting there. That's when it begins to act up and do that.
I think my dad has 1 of those multimeter's in a tool box somewhere. Ill look for it and check the battery. One thing i do remember is when my friend was reconnecting the battery. I noticed my inside lights, went on & off a couple of times when you touch the positive and didnt get the bolt tightened down right. I had the door open at this time, when it did that. Could it have shorted the battery somewhat??
I think my dad has 1 of those multimeter's in a tool box somewhere. Ill look for it and check the battery. One thing i do remember is when my friend was reconnecting the battery. I noticed my inside lights, went on & off a couple of times when you touch the positive and didnt get the bolt tightened down right. I had the door open at this time, when it did that. Could it have shorted the battery somewhat??
no thats normal its just the terminals making poor contact. once it was tight it was fine right?
well after considering it all i'd say maybe you do have a bad starter. like i said check the voltage while its cold cranking and then once it gets hot check it while its acting up. if its drawing more amperage while hot maybe it is a bad starter.
well after considering it all i'd say maybe you do have a bad starter. like i said check the voltage while its cold cranking and then once it gets hot check it while its acting up. if its drawing more amperage while hot maybe it is a bad starter.
if your headers are really close to the starter it could be heating up the crank not allowing enough juice to turn the motor over. happened to my dad in his 69 but i doubt that could be happening here. but you never know
Last edited by twitchtwice; Jan 24, 2009 at 11:15 PM.
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headers close to the crank? that doesn't make sense.
You wont be able to check the amperage draw of the started with a multimeter. Most if not all multimeters can only handle 10-20 amps. Your starter is going to draw 150+. You can measure voltage drop though, which is almost as good.
I would run the car down to your local auto parts retailer and have them check the battery and starter. They can check both while they are in the car.
You wont be able to check the amperage draw of the started with a multimeter. Most if not all multimeters can only handle 10-20 amps. Your starter is going to draw 150+. You can measure voltage drop though, which is almost as good.
I would run the car down to your local auto parts retailer and have them check the battery and starter. They can check both while they are in the car.
i never said measure amperage. i said measure the voltage during starting.
Might be dead front O2's
Even though it starts everytime in OL, if your O2's are flatlining when it was shut down it's going to have too much fuel sitting in it, possibly partially fouling the plugs.
Dealing with a problem like this is like working with a blindfold on, it would be ideal to have a scanner that can read the O2 output. You might get lucky and find front O2 codes.
Dirty connections, low voltage to the front O2's, damaged connector, or faulty extension may be screwing with the front O2's.
Even though it starts everytime in OL, if your O2's are flatlining when it was shut down it's going to have too much fuel sitting in it, possibly partially fouling the plugs.
Dealing with a problem like this is like working with a blindfold on, it would be ideal to have a scanner that can read the O2 output. You might get lucky and find front O2 codes.
Dirty connections, low voltage to the front O2's, damaged connector, or faulty extension may be screwing with the front O2's.
Ahh okk, ill look into all of the things you guy's suggested and take it to Autozone either tomorrow or later today to get the battery and starter checked.
I tried what you said "NORICEINSIDE" about the fuel pump just awhile ago. It still didnt fire up right, it actually just barely caught it.
I tried what you said "NORICEINSIDE" about the fuel pump just awhile ago. It still didnt fire up right, it actually just barely caught it.
Its been awhile but i did go to Advanced Auto Parts and got the battery checked, turns out its good along with the alternator. I told the guy, that i had just installed longtube header's and how it was having trouble starting after being driven. He said its more then likely the starter getting to much heat, because of the header's and he said i should get a heat shield around the starter.
I also went to Autozone and had them check the car, at 1 store he gave me this code P0118 and at the other. It was reading "high engine temp" or something like that but about high temperature. Coolant's fine, i actually flushed the radiator the week after the install of the LT's. Also, my temp gauge doesnt seem to be working. It always reads cold...
I also bought new spark plugs, going to get new front 02's as well.
I also went to Autozone and had them check the car, at 1 store he gave me this code P0118 and at the other. It was reading "high engine temp" or something like that but about high temperature. Coolant's fine, i actually flushed the radiator the week after the install of the LT's. Also, my temp gauge doesnt seem to be working. It always reads cold...
I also bought new spark plugs, going to get new front 02's as well.
