jackojr,
Let me know on your config.

I'm posting this as someone may be able to use the same PCV configuration:

 

One more question.. Best type of check valve to buy? I've found a few at McMaster-Carr.. Are there any others that work better?

 

This is something I've been researching and testing for a long time. One would think these are easy to come by, but not so. A PCV valve can be used but they only limit flow in one direction under extreme conditions and they leak..

Currently, the only true one-way valve that I know works, does not limit flow, is compact for easy installation, and has a low cracking pressure (important) is the Krank Vent by ET Performance. They are expensive, but they work.

I have another much lower cost, equal performance (on paper), and very promising candidate but they are on a 7 week back order. Once I verify its functionality I'll be ready to recommend. I don't want anyone to waste their time and money until I know it works.

HTH,

 

So I have one simple question. Would I be better off plugging the back 2 ports on my valve covers or routing them and teeing into the catchcan like the diagram above?? Also would it be better to put the pcv valve after the valeycover before the catchcan or between the catchcan and the intake? Two simple questions I guess! Man this thread is the chitznitz!!

 

1. If you have ports on the rear of both valve covers, connect them together across the rear.
2. This one is conditional:
   1. For a naturally aspirated application, you can put the PCV valve on either side.
   2. For a forced induction application with a high quality one-way valve between the intake and catch can, the PCV valve can be on either side; without a high quality one-way valve, the PCV valve MUST be between the intake manifold and catch can to minimize pressurization of the catch can. A stock PCV valve will not hold much boost without leaking so the can will pressurize equal to the leak rate of the PCV valve.

 

So connect the back 2 ports to equalize pressure? Or connect them and run them all the way up and tee into the catchcan??

 

I also talked to Tracey about this pcv deal and he thinks I should put a breather on my valve cover. Why don't you agree with this 405HP??

 

Just connect together at the rear.

I have covered this question in this thread.

 

Along with EVERYTHING else.. Thanks again, and please let me/us know how those new check valves work out...

 

405hp_zo6
Which set up do you recommend me going with? I have a 12.5 compression 383 ls1 in my impala that's only going to be track driven no street use what so ever. Would I be safe just sticking 2 breathers or what do u recommend?

 

How many and where do you have PCV ports on the valve covers, valley cover, throttle body, etc?

 

I've gone through this whole thread and it has helped out a lot! Thanks.

But I any still confused as to why I see a lot of high HP guys, including a lot of sponsors here, run a vented catch can from the dirty sides (with no return line)? It doesn't seem like it would really do anything except catch oil if it was forced into it. From my understanding it wouldn't vent out good and can pull back vapors under boost... Yet when I talk to them they say its better since no oil can reach the manifold...

To add to my question. Here is a thread discussing the use of a Vented catch can. According to this thread, which IMO seems to be the right way, there way is quite wrong.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...rs-inside.html

 

one each on the valve covers and one in the carb...

 

plug it all and run a breather!

 

IMHO, because it's easier to vent rather than risking pressurizing the crankcase under high load, high boost conditions where blow by flow is the highest. If the engine isn't purpose built for a forced induction application, chances are blow by production is much higher than recommended. Under these conditions, nothing will prevent the crankcase from pressurizing except for a vacuum pump or venting. Venting the crankcase masks the problem, not fixing it.

Venting will prevent crankcase pressurization, but it does present other negative effects most don't consider.

Happy motoring,

 

405HP_Z06 YGPM.

I am trying to figure out a solution to my dipstick poppin forged 347 in my GTO.

I want to run a dual catch can pcv setup, but am also thinking about somehow incorporating a one way check valve vented to the atmosphere that would only allow pressure to escape when crankcase pressure builds up. I figure if I could come up with something like this it would keep my dipstick from popping, and also allow me to retain the pcv setup.

 

PM responded to.

 

On an NA ls1 setup with a rev can is it necessary to block off the rear pass. port? Right now I have the rear drivers side port and rear pass. port tee-d and going to the catch can. The clean side is factory. Just wanted to know the pass rear port is blocked off in all the diagrams.

 

No, not necessary. You can leave it the way it is.

 

I've been through the whole thread twice now and I must just be missing it. Which diagram would be used for the RevXtreme catch can on a NA LS3?