My catch can routing ok?
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 801
Likes: 1
From: Anaheim Ca.
Okay guys, I installed the Norris yesterday. But I took it apart first. Its well made and it looks like all it does is pass the air thats being sucked out of the crankcase through a peice of red scott bright before it goes into the intake. With that being said, I think it will do a fine job.
Well others said the same, read all the pages and still makes about the same sense as when I started.
I have the closest to this setup
... LS6 valley, but no one seems to mention the connection behind the intake manifold that has the Y connector where the line from the rear of the drivers side valve cover that continues to the pass rear valve cover vent. The second line of the Y goes to the front section of the pass side, the hard plastic tube.
So, what I need to know for my application *Single Norris catch can* is what ones to cap off. And which to run where and where the PCV valve needs to be placed. I do not want to mess anything up so that is why I am asking.
Hopefully I am just making this harder than it needs to be? Is the right answer just cap off both rear valve cover ports and eliminate the Y with the additional line then run from the pass front vent to the TB as pictured and route the others just like in the diagram?
And is the dotted green line to the bellows just an optional location as opposed to the TB?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Dave
I have the closest to this setup
... LS6 valley, but no one seems to mention the connection behind the intake manifold that has the Y connector where the line from the rear of the drivers side valve cover that continues to the pass rear valve cover vent. The second line of the Y goes to the front section of the pass side, the hard plastic tube.
So, what I need to know for my application *Single Norris catch can* is what ones to cap off. And which to run where and where the PCV valve needs to be placed. I do not want to mess anything up so that is why I am asking.
Hopefully I am just making this harder than it needs to be? Is the right answer just cap off both rear valve cover ports and eliminate the Y with the additional line then run from the pass front vent to the TB as pictured and route the others just like in the diagram?
And is the dotted green line to the bellows just an optional location as opposed to the TB?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Dave
Last edited by LOHRTBT; Apr 14, 2013 at 11:13 PM.
If you're running the ls6 valley with the built in pcv; cap off the driver valve cover port & the rear passenger side port. Run your factory fresh air hose from the front passenger side port to throttle body. Then a hose from valley to can & can to port on intake.
Last edited by MM98; Apr 14, 2013 at 11:49 PM.
Cap the driver side valve cover. Place the PCV between the catch can and the intake manifold. This way the PCV does its job, but does not get fouled with oil and get stuck open/closed.
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Hey guys, I was hoping I could get some advice from everyone. I've attached a picture of my current pcv layout.
My cars setup is a forged 427 making 540 rwhp, and I have a problem. There has been at least 1 occurance when I've finished a long hard WOT pull and the oil dipstick was pushed out of the hole and oil spattered everywhere. This leads me to understand that my crankcase is building up too much pressure. I was hoping I could get some advice for changing my setup to alleviate this problem. I was thinking of switching to the second picture provided.
My cars setup is a forged 427 making 540 rwhp, and I have a problem. There has been at least 1 occurance when I've finished a long hard WOT pull and the oil dipstick was pushed out of the hole and oil spattered everywhere. This leads me to understand that my crankcase is building up too much pressure. I was hoping I could get some advice for changing my setup to alleviate this problem. I was thinking of switching to the second picture provided.
I'd try having the driver side valve cover port also run into the CC and just use the passenger side VC port for the fresh air.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...ing-ok-web.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...ing-ok-web.jpg
Last edited by 99Bluz28; May 6, 2013 at 04:17 PM.
I can't believe this thread is still alive lol After reading through all these posts for years I purchased a Mike Norris catch can along with a 2004 PCV/Valley Cover to delete all the cheap, easily-rotting PCV lines that ran all along stock ls1's. Even with the 04 PCV the catch can still picks up quite a bit and my FAST intake has stayed for the most part completely dry since installing. They look great too!
So, what I need to know for my application *Single Norris catch can* is what ones to cap off. And which to run where and where the PCV valve needs to be placed. I do not want to mess anything up so that is why I am asking.
Hopefully I am just making this harder than it needs to be? Is the right answer just cap off both rear valve cover ports and eliminate the Y with the additional line then run from the pass front vent to the TB as pictured and route the others just like in the diagram?
And is the dotted green line to the bellows just an optional location as opposed to the TB?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Dave
Hopefully I am just making this harder than it needs to be? Is the right answer just cap off both rear valve cover ports and eliminate the Y with the additional line then run from the pass front vent to the TB as pictured and route the others just like in the diagram?
And is the dotted green line to the bellows just an optional location as opposed to the TB?
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Dave
the problem with any 'one way' can is that it doesn't handle crankcase pressure any better than a bone stock system.
and by any better i mean 'not at all'
you are giving the blow by nowhere to go but out the main seals and dipstick tube.
with some dual cans or dual exit cans, your can opt to force all of the blow by and crank case pressure directly into the intake air stream. not a very good solution if you ask me.
and by any better i mean 'not at all'
you are giving the blow by nowhere to go but out the main seals and dipstick tube.
with some dual cans or dual exit cans, your can opt to force all of the blow by and crank case pressure directly into the intake air stream. not a very good solution if you ask me.
the problem with any 'one way' can is that it doesn't handle crankcase pressure any better than a bone stock system.
and by any better i mean 'not at all'
you are giving the blow by nowhere to go but out the main seals and dipstick tube.
with some dual cans or dual exit cans, your can opt to force all of the blow by and crank case pressure directly into the intake air stream. not a very good solution if you ask me.
and by any better i mean 'not at all'
you are giving the blow by nowhere to go but out the main seals and dipstick tube.
with some dual cans or dual exit cans, your can opt to force all of the blow by and crank case pressure directly into the intake air stream. not a very good solution if you ask me.
I've been running the single RX catch can for awhile now and noticed I'm getting enough crank case pressure to get oil up my TB tube.....which really sucks. Should I just add one of their breathers on the oil cap and ditch the tube?
BTW I'd keep the fresh air tube on it.