Check Your FAST 92 Bolts?
Why? It seems the "proper" way of doing it with the torque wrench is not very successful. I put my intake on with new FAST gaskets a year ago. I checked the bolts due to this thread and found all the bolts nice and tight. I did NOT use a torque wrench on the initial install. Either I got lucky or I know something you don't. I only use torque wrenches on critical fasteners, ones that see high load like head bolts, wheel studs, axle/differential components, etc.
Well the same idea is applied to installing an intake. Your torque them down for a few reasons. First, it ensures a proper seal to all eight runners. Second, it ensures you do not unintentionally ruin the seals. Third, It ensures you have taken the above steps to not ruin your $800+ investment.
These are critical bolts - they directly affect the vacuum. They hold the intake manifold on for crying out loud. The intake that is directly exposed to all of the engines air supply, vibration, oil(if you have the ls1 pcv set-up), and backfires if something happens. Try to install a knock sensor without torqing it to specs...
I appologize if it sounds like I am jumping on you. But just because this worked for you does not mean you should recommend it. Not everyone has a calibrated elbow.
I used a tq wrench the first time and I found a few loose while doing maitaince to my car. So I just tightend them without and they are good now. My arm is calibrated-lol. I dont over tighten or under tighten anything, and yes I usually crisscross to evenly distribute force on the hardware. A tq wrench isnt always needed. For heads and a few other thing yes.
just checked mine 92 with the stainless hardware after only 60miles and all were loose around 30-40 in-lbs...
going to try and retighten and mark see what happens if it is still an issue i am going to the stock bolts...sucks i have to pull the intake to get the back bolts...
going to try and retighten and mark see what happens if it is still an issue i am going to the stock bolts...sucks i have to pull the intake to get the back bolts... LS1 Tech Stories
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you know at first i was like, damn these guys probably torque their oil drain plugs too. But it is a good point to use a torque wrench to make sure they are all even and sealed up good, after all, it is a plastic intake.
They didn't call me back. So when I called them to get an update, I was told, they have still have not heard of this happening. Maybe you guys that are seeing this happen with there intakes should give them a call to prove that it is. I talked to Maxwell 901-260-3278 ext. 596.
Just took my fast 92 off yesterday after pulling the motor, didnt notice any too loose, I would have checked had I seen this thread sooner, found it because I was searching for info on teh valley bolts which the heads strip out pretty easily I have found
I used stock gaskets, and havent noticed any of mine backing off? Also I didnt use a torque wrench either. And I dont seem to have any leaks or other BS. I have done countless intake installs without a torque wrench. If I had an inch lbs wrench I probably would.
Also I dont TORQUE my wheels either...let the impact handle that
Also I dont TORQUE my wheels either...let the impact handle that
Torque specs more often than not are there to keep you from damaging the threads more than keeping the item in place, especially in cases of dissimilar metals. I had the same issue with my LS6 intake with stock bolts, they backed off 3 times and the 4th time I said to hell with it and just cranked it till they felt good and it has stayed ever since then (about 6k miles).
Slightly off topic, my Victor, JR manifold came with it's own bolts (which looked suspiciously like cheap hardware store grade stuff) that Edelbrock spec'ed to 11 ft/lbs. I went around the correct pattern at 40 in/lbs, 80 in/lbs, and 121 in/lbs. At every single "torqueing", each bolt felt like it was on the verge of stripping. At each interval, I did all bolts the three times in the pattern and was able to move them all until the third time. I was truly sweating bullets on that last (121 in/lbs) step! Not a single bolt stripped though and after it was done, I noticed that manifold had pulled down tight to the heads, completely flattening the gaskets into their grooves. I realize my manifold is not plastic, but I'm pretty sure properly torqueing a (relatively delicate) manifold in the correct sequence is crucial to success.
Russ
Russ
well my car started running like crap while my friend and i were tunning it with hp tuners. my fuel trims were at +25 all around when normally they are around +1 or +2. i checked my fast intake bolt and all of them were all loose by a good bit. this time i torqued them all back to 89 in lbs and them went over them again to 95 in lbs. that fixed my problem pretty fast. hopefully they don't back off again.
Bump,
I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to figure out a remedy for this problem I'm dealing with right now. The intake bolts on my fast 92 keeps coming loose. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!
I know this is an old thread but I'm trying to figure out a remedy for this problem I'm dealing with right now. The intake bolts on my fast 92 keeps coming loose. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!
All you have to do is torque them with the correct specs, using medium strength(blue) loctite.
It doesnt require 89in/lbs to seal! It will seal just fine at 50in/lb, or at 20in/lb. Torque specs are to keep you from damaging threads. The intake only has to seal, it doesnt know what torque the bolts are set to.
It doesnt require 89in/lbs to seal! It will seal just fine at 50in/lb, or at 20in/lb. Torque specs are to keep you from damaging threads. The intake only has to seal, it doesnt know what torque the bolts are set to.
The answers are in this thread already. Use blue loctite to keep the bolts from backing out. Re-tourque if you feel the need, but it doesnt take "x" amount of torque, the gaskets only need to seal.