StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

ok fellas i ordering my parts and i need alittle shopping list help...

Lpp long tubes and ORY, SLP lid, now i know i'll need block off plates for the EGR and stuff.... but since i deleting the cats will i need o2 extentions and or o2 simulators? i will have this thing dyno tuned soon as all parts are in and installed so i unsure about what happens to rear o2 sensors..... and what else should i need for all this to come together? after i ride in some rides i will make my choice on TQ converter and install it too...

also will i need plugs and wires?

so here is the run down:

LT LPP headers
LPP ORY
SLP lid
Seal-for-good Header gaskets
3-3" stainless band clamps,... i assume the stock SLP dual dual is 3"
LS1 block off plate kit
TQ converter,.. is this dangerous on a 95k trans that works flawlessly?
sphon tq arm... already got it bought i think
Dyno tune
o2 extentions


missin anything?

thanks guys!!!

Fabian

iTrader: (5)

Make sure to get OEM GM header gaskets (the multi-layer metal ones). You may as well do plugs since you're already in the area. You will need to get your rear O2s tuned out to get rid of the SES light and you can use O2 extensions OR Bosch 13111 Corvette sensors. Some people say they cause problems, I've ran mine for years with NO problems at all.

As far as converter, I have a Vig3600 that ******* GOES. If you do get a high stall I also strongly suggest a tranny cooler and a shift kit. I use a B&M Super cooler and a TransGO shift kit. Virtually NO pause between shifts. I installed all my tranny stuff when I was in the 80K range and a few years and several races later, everything is still sound. PM me if you need more specifics

Fabian

iTrader: (5)

Heres a vid from last year. You can kinda hear how smooth it shifts with no lag

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kU21u9v03-I

StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

SWEET MAN!!!!! i love it!!! thanks a ton!

thewholefnshow1

iTrader: (2)

You may want to check the LPP Headers cause I don't think they have the air or egr and if they don't then you want need the block off plates. You can have the rear O2's tune out during your dyno tune so you don't need O2 sims. I say just tune those out during the dyno tune and that save you some money.

StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

wont i still need plates to block off the intake?

thewholefnshow1

iTrader: (2)

My friend it's time for you to upgrade to an LS6 intake unless you can find a wieand or bbk ssi intake. The LS6 can be found in the classifieds and normally run around 300 or 350. But if not then I guess you would have to plug it off.

StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

i would love to upgrade to an LS6 but buyin all this other stuff is pressin me to the point the wife is squeezin my toy fund... she has this weird thing about money... acts like she worked and made it or something.... if anyone has one reasonable they wanna shuck LOL

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

Awesome list, man. You may want to add a set of Prothane Poly Motor Mounts to it. They'll prevent your newly installed LT's and ORY from banging your floor pan when your motor torques. They're a PITA to install, but much, MUCH simplier if you have the exhaust manifolds/headers outta the way. I've done a three sets of headers and three sets of motor mounts. I followed a write-up that I found here on the site and have had nothing but great results. Definitely something to consider. Good luck with your upcoming installs.

StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

thanks mumbles thats a bad *** formula in the sig

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

Just my opinion but I would do a built trans and cooler at the same time as the stall. The first time I put some power to a stock 4l60 it started slippin bad. IIRC my trans set up was around $3k when it was all said and done

'00zbird

If you're already going torque arm and stall, might as well go rearend if you've got the money.

thewholefnshow1

iTrader: (2)

Good point Mumbles but the poly motor mounts are questionable IMO. I guess it depends on if yours are wore out and maybe the headers you run. My 98 had 46K on it and when I put my used Kooks and Catted Y I didn't change the motor mounts and mines doesn't bang the floorboard or any where. An a couple of members on here don't have banging issues. I think that's all in the quality of headers you buy and even after I put the cam and all the bolt ons and put 80 rwhp and about 75 rwtq mines still don't bang. Not knocking the advice but every car is different, so idk

cookba

iTrader: (10)

LT LPP headers - i prefer Kooks or ARH
LPP ORY - Again Kooks or ARH
SLP lid - get a larger FTP lid
Seal-for-good Header gaskets - Percy's? get them and some stage 8 header bolts and you'll never have to worry about them
3-3" stainless band clamps,... i assume the stock SLP dual dual is 3"
LS1 block off plate kit
TQ converter - eventually your gonna want/need a rebuild. 3600 stall from Yank, FTI
sphon tq arm - i prefer UMI or BMR
Dyno tune
o2 extentions

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

You're absolutely right, man. Some people have no troubles at all with the factory mounts. I guess I'm a "do-it once" kinda guy, and decided to go with the poly's as some insurance. I really didn't want to have to tear my headers and Y-pipe back off the car, if they did end up banging. Plus I read on here, if you can survive a motor mount install to one of these cars, everything else will seem like a piece of cake. So it was kind of a challenge that I wanted to be able to say I've accomplished.

Thanks alot. Looks like you have a couple of nice toys in your sig as well.

RrCoX22

iTrader: (6)

you'll want to re-tune once you get that stall in... just saying if you wanting to save some $$$

thewholefnshow1

iTrader: (2)

You have a good point too cause it can happen.

StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

thanks man!

and i plan on getting the tune after every single mod is done.... that way one tune will cure them all.... i am having doubts about a stall in a semi DD would i have better results out of gear change to 3.73?

CoastieWS6

iTrader: (1)

Your doing all the exhaust, so you might want to add a cutout to the exhaust while your at it.

StreetGliderX

iTrader: (2)

are the newer cut outs any better than the old ones that leaked all the time?