O2 Sensor
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
O2 Sensor Hi, I just put on a set of headers to compliment the MS4 cam, and LS6 heads and was wondering what do you guys do about the O2 sensors? Do you have to keep all four or will there only be two needed since there are no more cats on the car?
The front two 02's get relocated further back due to the length of the header primaries. The rear 02's can either be deleted in the PCM, or simulators can be plugged in to the 02 connectors. I think the parameters of the front 02's also need to be widened so there are no issues with codes. When I installed my headers I got a mail order tune from Frost here on the boards (sponsor) and have been more than happy with the results, no issues.
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
The front two 02's get relocated further back due to the length of the header primaries. The rear 02's can either be deleted in the PCM, or simulators can be plugged in to the 02 connectors. I think the parameters of the front 02's also need to be widened so there are no issues with codes. When I installed my headers I got a mail order tune from Frost here on the boards (sponsor) and have been more than happy with the results, no issues.
Without cats there is no need for a front AND rear 02 sensor as the gasses are not changed in any way (because there is no catalytic converter). Deleting the rears or running O2 sims are the solutions which will benefit you. A wideband O2 sensor is not necessary but there are plenty of guys running them for the added benefits of the data provided.
Just to clarify for the OP, vette O2's have longer pigtails so there is no need for an extension, there may also be some benefit to them heating up quicker (not entirely knowledgeable on this). People use the vette O2's because they serve the dual purpose of getting new O2 sensors and providing the added length needed (although a more expensive than extensions).
Info from the sticky which I should've just copy/pasted way sooner than now. Should give you everything you need.
Rear O2 sensors - Emissions controll "tattler". Reads the exhaust gas after the cats, compares content to that of the front O2 sensors, makes sure cats are doing their job.
Removing the rear O2's is a must when doing headers. Even if cats and rest of equipment is used, SES light will still come on most of the time due to abnormal readings.
Solutions:
Buy O2 simulators - these plug into the harness and simulate a functioning cat. These have been known to STILL not prevent the SES light after exhaust work.
Have Rear O2's tuned out - better option, usually cheaper than buying O2 sims, guaranteed to stop SES light.
Best Option - Have REAR O2's, EGR, and AIR codes tuned out at same times, even if you wish to keep EGR/AIR. Any speedshop with LS1edit/HPtuners can do this. A friend who has a multiple car copy can as well. 2K2WS6TA has noted that the new Predator can supossedly delete the codes (per their website), but I'm not sure. Most handheld programmers can "read" the code, then "clear it", but this is not "deleting". When a code is "cleared", the SES light only goes away, but comes back when the car is turned off and re-started. If anyone has any info on this, post up!
Cost:
You can call around to a local shop and ask. I paid $75 at MTI, and should expect it to cost around that much. Some shops might even do it for free hoping to strike up some business. Go to LS1tech.com, click the top right button, and search sponsers by zip code and distance. You can also do a mail order if you don't have access to it. You just ship them your PCM, they edit it, and ship it back.
Links:
General - http://www.ls1camaro.net/sections.ph...ticle&artid=70
Very Nice Writeup - Exhaust backfires, running rich, poor mileage....come in! (AIR removal)
Pics - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/480964-air-egr-removal.html
Lid Plug - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/483935-what-size-plug-side-air-lid-after-air-removal.html
Air Removal! With Pics! - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/673299-air-removal-pics.html
EGR Plug for manifold - 1-3/8" adjustable freeze plug from an autoparts store. Here's a picture of one......... http://www.franklinwaterers.com/images/zoom/explug.jpg
Having problems with front O2's? (insufficient switching etc.) This is a pretty good read.......
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/514521-o2-sensors-lt-s-not-hot-enough-tips.html
Removing the rear O2's is a must when doing headers. Even if cats and rest of equipment is used, SES light will still come on most of the time due to abnormal readings.
Solutions:
Buy O2 simulators - these plug into the harness and simulate a functioning cat. These have been known to STILL not prevent the SES light after exhaust work.
Have Rear O2's tuned out - better option, usually cheaper than buying O2 sims, guaranteed to stop SES light.
Best Option - Have REAR O2's, EGR, and AIR codes tuned out at same times, even if you wish to keep EGR/AIR. Any speedshop with LS1edit/HPtuners can do this. A friend who has a multiple car copy can as well. 2K2WS6TA has noted that the new Predator can supossedly delete the codes (per their website), but I'm not sure. Most handheld programmers can "read" the code, then "clear it", but this is not "deleting". When a code is "cleared", the SES light only goes away, but comes back when the car is turned off and re-started. If anyone has any info on this, post up!
Cost:
You can call around to a local shop and ask. I paid $75 at MTI, and should expect it to cost around that much. Some shops might even do it for free hoping to strike up some business. Go to LS1tech.com, click the top right button, and search sponsers by zip code and distance. You can also do a mail order if you don't have access to it. You just ship them your PCM, they edit it, and ship it back.
Links:
General - http://www.ls1camaro.net/sections.ph...ticle&artid=70
Very Nice Writeup - Exhaust backfires, running rich, poor mileage....come in! (AIR removal)
Pics - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/480964-air-egr-removal.html
Lid Plug - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/483935-what-size-plug-side-air-lid-after-air-removal.html
Air Removal! With Pics! - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/673299-air-removal-pics.html
EGR Plug for manifold - 1-3/8" adjustable freeze plug from an autoparts store. Here's a picture of one......... http://www.franklinwaterers.com/images/zoom/explug.jpg
Having problems with front O2's? (insufficient switching etc.) This is a pretty good read.......
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/514521-o2-sensors-lt-s-not-hot-enough-tips.html
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Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 446
Likes: 1
From: Oakland, California
Thanks MjMaro all of your info has been very helpful, especially that write up
. I have the O2 extension harness, so I won't need the Vette sensors. Right now I'm looking for a good shop that can tune my computer, out here in the Bay Area, Ca. just in case anybody with a shop reads this thread. I went to a local shop just up the street from my house, but it turns out they only do imports.
. I have the O2 extension harness, so I won't need the Vette sensors. Right now I'm looking for a good shop that can tune my computer, out here in the Bay Area, Ca. just in case anybody with a shop reads this thread. I went to a local shop just up the street from my house, but it turns out they only do imports. LS1 Tech Stories
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Verdad Gallardo Like I said before, I went with a mail order tune: www.tunedbyfrost.com
He's a good guy and definitely knows what he is doing. With shipping and everything it was like ~$140 or so. Although with your mods a dynotune would more than likely be desired unless Steve (Frost) felt confident in being able to get it close. Under the sponsors, you can search by area - should help you find someone. Good luck!
He's a good guy and definitely knows what he is doing. With shipping and everything it was like ~$140 or so. Although with your mods a dynotune would more than likely be desired unless Steve (Frost) felt confident in being able to get it close. Under the sponsors, you can search by area - should help you find someone. Good luck!
This is what I turned up with a vendor search:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vendor_di...1&location=136
You will probably be better off posting in the Cali regional section asking people where they have gotten their tuning done.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/vendor_di...1&location=136
You will probably be better off posting in the Cali regional section asking people where they have gotten their tuning done.
Should i go with used o2 extensions that look like there in good condition or jus go ahead and buy brand new for like $12 more??? I mean i want them to last the longest and not burn up/out or does it really matter? what would you'all say? Thx
From the info I found regarding LT installs, people suggested one 12" and one 18". You will have enough slack that way to route things away from exhaust pipes etc. (anything that will get too hot) I just used zipties to tighten mine up.
What thread did you find your info from MJMaro??? B/c thats what i've heard to but when i ask ppl they say no i'd be fine with a pair of 12' ext.'s so idk... anyone else wanna chime in and give us some quality input????
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ng-enough.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...next-week.html <- Post #16
Also stuff in the sticky about extension length.
I have Pacesetters and was fine with one 12" and one 18" extension.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...next-week.html <- Post #16
Also stuff in the sticky about extension length.
I have Pacesetters and was fine with one 12" and one 18" extension.
