Not air conditioning, A.I.R. = Air Induction Recirculation (I believe is the acronym)

 

oh lol, my bad....im gonna do that next year when I do a LS6 head swap....I just dont want the car to run funky or have any check engine lights right now, I will do it eventually

 

just got done takin the old and busted exhaust manifolds off, now on with the sweetness..........it wasnt as bad as people make it out to be, just takes a little time and finesse.......before I put the new headers in, should I have the engine hoisted up, or bolt the engine mounts back in and try to shimmy them in that way

 

before I put the new headers in, should I have the engine hoisted up, or bolt the engine mounts back in and try to shimmy them in that way

 

You'll definitely want to complete your motor mount install before installing the headers.

Its almost impossible to get to the motor mount with the headers in the way.

 

should I set the engine back down and bolt them in, or have them in there and bolt them down after the headers are in

 

Its really tough to get to the mounts once the headers are on the car.

I'm not sure if you have a copy of the installation instructions for these headers, but I do know SLP provides them with each product on their site. Here is a link to the instructions for these particular headers...

http://www.slponline.com/inst/30052.pdf

I glanced through them and they don't mention anything about having to remove a motor mount bolt in order to install either header.

So, what I would do is, get the motor mount installation completely finished. Which means, have the motor back in place with the long bolts through the mounts and pedestals. And then reinstall the A/C Compressor & Bracket, Alternator, and Starter. Which should put you right back where you began, with the exhaust manifolds and factory Y-pipe off the car, and ready to install the headers.

I have read that some have removed a motor mount bolt and raised the engine to gain space to get their headers into place. I'm sure this would work fine with the factory rubber bushings. But reinstalling the long bolts with Poly mounts can be a bitch without the header in the way. So I can only imagine how difficult it would be with the header in place.

Trust me, finish the motor mount install, and then work on getting your headers on the car.

Good luck, man.

 

so for its coming along ok

 

after the headers are in, will I be able to put the main motor mount bolt back in?......or am I gonna have to force my nice SLP long tubes in there with the engine bolted down

 

I believe it is best to have them in but not tightened down. I got mine in with the passenger side a little loose and the motor slightly jacked up.

 

ok thanks......GM is ****** stupid for putting the motor mount bolts in facing the front, thats why you have to take everything apart, im just gonna put them in facing the back, unless they have to go back in the way they came out

 

has anyone ever dropped the tranny crossmember down a little bit to fit the passenger side longtube in

 

im pulling these POS headers back off and getting something else, for being the most expensive headers on the market they sure are the worst, they are a **** poor design and I wouldnt recommened them to anybody

 

the headers are done finally lol, it only took forever and a day, I wasnt able to get them in with turn and twisting them in any position, so since I had to replace the clutch slave cylinder I pulled the tranny out and pulled the bellhousing off and slipped that son of a bitch right in there

 

I just got done doing this. The headers were actually really simple for me. I had the motor lifted up and the passenger side mount and bracket out. The driverside mount was in but the motor wasn't pinned in and the bracket wasn't bolted down to the K member. Then I got the headers in place and started the bolts with everything in place and got the mounts bolted up and the motor pinned in and finished tightening the headers.