Alternator after alternator, any builders here ???
#21
ive used a autozone reman and have gone threw 3 alts in one week because the crappy remans had a piece of epoxy that would come loose literally after installing them,ive had one come out of the box and fail. im going to upgrade to a brand new one not a reman and that should hopefully fix my problem.
but if a truck one will work ill use that because ive used just the 2 bolts up front on my last motor without any issues
but if a truck one will work ill use that because ive used just the 2 bolts up front on my last motor without any issues
Yeah I have had them last as little as 5 minutes as well..
#22
Big 3? the alt to batt, block ground, fuse box wire????
http://www.knukonceptz.com/ Good site to order good quality wire that is not expensive. I have ordered a lot of stuff from them. I went with their 4 gauge, but I would go with 0 gauge. pm me if the link is gone.
#23
i got some welding wire from tractor supply..to go from the batt to alt....as soon as i get the fuse its going in.....i also did my starter too......also added a new ground from the batt to chassis......unlike that vid......the ground, any ground does not have to be 0 gauge.........while 0 gauge from the batt to alt is nice.........on a stock alt it is really over kill.......a higher amp alt DOES need the bigger wire....that site was great...i have finally found my fuse holder and fuse
Last edited by sjsingle1; 04-15-2010 at 03:42 AM.
#24
ive used a autozone reman and have gone threw 3 alts in one week because the crappy remans had a piece of epoxy that would come loose literally after installing them,ive had one come out of the box and fail. im going to upgrade to a brand new one not a reman and that should hopefully fix my problem.
but if a truck one will work ill use that because ive used just the 2 bolts up front on my last motor without any issues
but if a truck one will work ill use that because ive used just the 2 bolts up front on my last motor without any issues
Mod edit: Solution thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html
Last edited by Sharpe; 06-04-2010 at 11:59 AM.
#25
Random Question: Does everyone's voltage gauge drop when they first turn their A/C on? Is there anything that I can do to fix this?
I am interested in doing this Big 3.
would i have to run an upgraded battery or is what a shop like autozone has regularly for our cars sufficient? I have an alpine headunit and some aftermarket stock replacement speakers in the stock location.
I think I might have to replace the wire that goes from the back of the alternator to the positive side of the battery. I had a shop do it and they did a really shitty job (zip tied it to the sway bar. I want it to be ran according to the stock routing and it might be too short) so if there is a benefit of doing like a 4 or 0 gauge wire, I am interested in hearing the opinions on that.
Does anyone know the how long each of the three power wires should be, like a pre-measured kind of kit?
Would it hurt to only increase the gauge of the wire that runs from the back of the alternator to the + terminal on the battery?
Would it hurt to do this mod to a car that only has aftermarket stock speakers in the stock location and an alpine head unit?
Would I need an inline fuse like in the video or is that only necessary for people running really loud stereos?
what about this guy mentioning the wire that runs from the fuse block to the + terminal on the battery at about 4:15 into the video? does that wire need to be upgraded as well to turn this into the big 4?
is there anything else that I am missing like a write up or a how to with pictures on someone that has already done this before? Sorry for my noob-ness on the subject. I just kind of stumbled across this, but I am very interested.
Thank you in advance for all of your help.
I am interested in doing this Big 3.
would i have to run an upgraded battery or is what a shop like autozone has regularly for our cars sufficient? I have an alpine headunit and some aftermarket stock replacement speakers in the stock location.
I think I might have to replace the wire that goes from the back of the alternator to the positive side of the battery. I had a shop do it and they did a really shitty job (zip tied it to the sway bar. I want it to be ran according to the stock routing and it might be too short) so if there is a benefit of doing like a 4 or 0 gauge wire, I am interested in hearing the opinions on that.
Does anyone know the how long each of the three power wires should be, like a pre-measured kind of kit?
Would it hurt to only increase the gauge of the wire that runs from the back of the alternator to the + terminal on the battery?
Would it hurt to do this mod to a car that only has aftermarket stock speakers in the stock location and an alpine head unit?
Would I need an inline fuse like in the video or is that only necessary for people running really loud stereos?
what about this guy mentioning the wire that runs from the fuse block to the + terminal on the battery at about 4:15 into the video? does that wire need to be upgraded as well to turn this into the big 4?
is there anything else that I am missing like a write up or a how to with pictures on someone that has already done this before? Sorry for my noob-ness on the subject. I just kind of stumbled across this, but I am very interested.
Thank you in advance for all of your help.
Last edited by jdoyle; 06-23-2010 at 07:02 PM.
#26
Look into power bastards alternators. Their LS1 offering is one of the best out there in the 220amp range. I only run optima batteries in F bodies and always do the big 3. I would never put autozone crap in my car and I strongly suggest you dont either. You will end up paying in the end.
#28
00pooterSS ended up getting a truck alternator that fixed his problems, and I soon followed He made a thread about it https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-failures.html
#29
#32
Hello all,
Im trying to figure out how to wire my alternator. I have a L33 with a MS3 Gold box it has a bosch 160 alternator PN: 15128978. The pig tails has two white wires that are not marked with anything. After reading the thread I really don't want to fry anything. Any help would be great! Thanks!
Im trying to figure out how to wire my alternator. I have a L33 with a MS3 Gold box it has a bosch 160 alternator PN: 15128978. The pig tails has two white wires that are not marked with anything. After reading the thread I really don't want to fry anything. Any help would be great! Thanks!
#33
Hello all,
Im trying to figure out how to wire my alternator. I have a L33 with a MS3 Gold box it has a bosch 160 alternator PN: 15128978. The pig tails has two white wires that are not marked with anything. After reading the thread I really don't want to fry anything. Any help would be great! Thanks!
Im trying to figure out how to wire my alternator. I have a L33 with a MS3 Gold box it has a bosch 160 alternator PN: 15128978. The pig tails has two white wires that are not marked with anything. After reading the thread I really don't want to fry anything. Any help would be great! Thanks!
I would try to help but I have no idea what a MS3 gold box is or a bosch 160 alternator.
#34
Here are my two wild *** guesses...
EFI Source has a stand alone PCM called a MS3 Gold Box maybe that's what's being referred to.
The bosch 160 alternator PN: 15128978, comes up as a GM AC Delco part number.
EFI Source has a stand alone PCM called a MS3 Gold Box maybe that's what's being referred to.
The bosch 160 alternator PN: 15128978, comes up as a GM AC Delco part number.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 11-08-2018 at 03:44 PM.