ls1 oil changes...
07-18-2010, 08:30 PM
#66
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I changed my oil the other day for the first time. I wasn't sure what the previous owner was using or how old it was so I went ahead and changed it. I went with 10w30 Quaker State. Got a regular sized WIX filter to go with it. Now my oil pressure is lower than what it used to be. Its really hot here right now, so in city driving its getting down to around 30psi-35psi. I bought a K&N HP2006 bigger filter today and I am gonna put that on there and see if that raises it up any. Question is, should I switch to 10w40 to maybe get a lil more oil pressure once the engine is good and hot? Also, what non synthetic oil is everyone using?
07-18-2010, 08:57 PM
#67
that doesn't sound to bad really, especially if that's idle, how many miles on the car?
Also, oil pressure isn't necessarily the end all be all, sometimes a thinner oil may move more volume through at a lower pressure. Hence why a cold motor (besides idling higher) has such high oil pressure, the oil thick and tolerances tight.
WOT is what you should be worried about, if its not staying strong and constant there, you should consult some experts.
Also, oil pressure isn't necessarily the end all be all, sometimes a thinner oil may move more volume through at a lower pressure. Hence why a cold motor (besides idling higher) has such high oil pressure, the oil thick and tolerances tight.
WOT is what you should be worried about, if its not staying strong and constant there, you should consult some experts.
07-18-2010, 09:55 PM
#68
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that doesn't sound to bad really, especially if that's idle, how many miles on the car?
Also, oil pressure isn't necessarily the end all be all, sometimes a thinner oil may move more volume through at a lower pressure. Hence why a cold motor (besides idling higher) has such high oil pressure, the oil thick and tolerances tight.
WOT is what you should be worried about, if its not staying strong and constant there, you should consult some experts.
Also, oil pressure isn't necessarily the end all be all, sometimes a thinner oil may move more volume through at a lower pressure. Hence why a cold motor (besides idling higher) has such high oil pressure, the oil thick and tolerances tight.
WOT is what you should be worried about, if its not staying strong and constant there, you should consult some experts.
I am mainly just being cautious.
07-19-2010, 11:46 AM
#69
While all the big name brands of synthetic oils will do you well such as Penzoil, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple, pass them all and reach for the Castrol 0-30 "made in Germany" bottles. It is very well tested and documented as the best oil that has the least breakdown compared to others. Don’t be put off by it’s weight, it tests closer to a 10-40 viscosity anyway.
Auto Zone often has Castrol Syntec on sale with a filter you’d probably be best off tossing in the trash. Royal Purple and Red Line will be your most expensive oil choices.
Any "quality" oil filter should also be used, so long as it’s NOT ANY STYLE OF FRAM! Fram oil filters are garbage regardless of which one they are, avoid them like the plague. This has also been well documented. You couldn’t pay me to use a Fram filter. Personally, if I couldn’t have my usual choice, a Cummins LF, I’d reach for a Mobil 1 filter. Wix, Hastings, K&N, Royal Purple are also good quality filters.
Royal Purple and K&N filters will be your most expensive choices but be aware that the Mobil 1 filter is basically the same as a Royal Purple.
I do a oil & filter change when the oil is dark on the dipstick which relates to 3 to 4 thousand miles.
Like others have said here, a good education can be had over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/
Auto Zone often has Castrol Syntec on sale with a filter you’d probably be best off tossing in the trash. Royal Purple and Red Line will be your most expensive oil choices.
Any "quality" oil filter should also be used, so long as it’s NOT ANY STYLE OF FRAM! Fram oil filters are garbage regardless of which one they are, avoid them like the plague. This has also been well documented. You couldn’t pay me to use a Fram filter. Personally, if I couldn’t have my usual choice, a Cummins LF, I’d reach for a Mobil 1 filter. Wix, Hastings, K&N, Royal Purple are also good quality filters.
Royal Purple and K&N filters will be your most expensive choices but be aware that the Mobil 1 filter is basically the same as a Royal Purple.
I do a oil & filter change when the oil is dark on the dipstick which relates to 3 to 4 thousand miles.
Like others have said here, a good education can be had over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/
Last edited by Paul Bell; 07-19-2010 at 06:51 PM.
07-20-2010, 01:03 PM
#76
While all the big name brands of synthetic oils will do you well such as Penzoil, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line and Royal Purple, pass them all and reach for the Castrol 0-30 "made in Germany" bottles. It is very well tested and documented as the best oil that has the least breakdown compared to others. Don’t be put off by it’s weight, it tests closer to a 10-40 viscosity anyway.
Auto Zone often has Castrol Syntec on sale with a filter you’d probably be best off tossing in the trash. Royal Purple and Red Line will be your most expensive oil choices.
Auto Zone often has Castrol Syntec on sale with a filter you’d probably be best off tossing in the trash. Royal Purple and Red Line will be your most expensive oil choices.
07-20-2010, 01:22 PM
#78
From what I've read about minimum oil pressure, it seems that GM has a rule of thumb around 8-10 psi of oil pressure per thousand RPMs. Mine will dip down in the upper 30s on really hot days, but the pressure builds steady throughout the RPM range - if yours does the same, I wouldn't worry about it.
07-20-2010, 01:59 PM
#79
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It goes up quickly when I give it some gas so... I am still debating on switching from 10w30 to 10w40, I am already using the oversized KN filter. I think next time I change my oil, I am gonna switch from Quaker State to Valvoline.