ls1 oil changes...
#81
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
Not trying to beat a dead horse, or ressurect it for that matter. Stumbled across this on another thread. This is going back to the debate about the small filter vs large, pro's / cons..... Check out the micron specs on each, with each having the same flow rate. This is for WIX filters, mind you.....
51522 (Larger filter) - specs say that it filters 15 microns
51042 (Smaller filter) - specs say that it filters 19 microns
Here are the specs:
Part Number: 51522
UPC Number: 765809515222
Principal Application: AMC (82-86), GM, Saturn (93-08), Jeep (81-86), Isuzu (03-08), Saab (06-08)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.526
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 290
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 15
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226
Part Number: 51042
UPC Number: 765809510425
Principal Application: Various GM Cars & Trucks (75-76) (96-08)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.404
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 320
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226
Just thought some might want to know this. The 51522 IS A BETTER FILTER that does NOT impede flow!
51522 (Larger filter) - specs say that it filters 15 microns
51042 (Smaller filter) - specs say that it filters 19 microns
Here are the specs:
Part Number: 51522
UPC Number: 765809515222
Principal Application: AMC (82-86), GM, Saturn (93-08), Jeep (81-86), Isuzu (03-08), Saab (06-08)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 4.526
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 290
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 15
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226
Part Number: 51042
UPC Number: 765809510425
Principal Application: Various GM Cars & Trucks (75-76) (96-08)
All Applications
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Paper
Height: 3.404
Outer Diameter Top: 2.921
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 13/16-16
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: None
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Burst Pressure-PSI: 320
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 19
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.734 2.430 0.226
Just thought some might want to know this. The 51522 IS A BETTER FILTER that does NOT impede flow!
#83
TECH Fanatic
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Since this thread is back up....before people start bashing ALL kinda of Fram filters, the Extended Guard is actually getting pretty good reviews....seems to be well constructed and flows pretty well
#85
12 Second Club
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I use conventional Valvoline 10w30 with Fram XG
Since valvoline came out with a synthentic for their maxlife line, I will probably switch the T/A over to it and give it a try since I rolled over 100k.
Never had a problem running conventional oil in a high mile car..still run it in my 233k camaro
Since valvoline came out with a synthentic for their maxlife line, I will probably switch the T/A over to it and give it a try since I rolled over 100k.
Never had a problem running conventional oil in a high mile car..still run it in my 233k camaro
#86
Launching!
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Like 99FormulaM6r said it should be ok to switch but it can cause leaks. I switched to synthetic on my 87 mustang when it had 90k on the clock and oil just disappeared. It wasnt burning oil to where it was visible it was just getting comsumed. On the next oil change I went back to conventional and after a bit the oil consumption went away.
#87
10 Second Club
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I have used the most expensive oil, cheapest oil, in between oil, synthetic oil, regular oil, switched back and forth, mixed both oils, ect... Now what I do is get the big yellow jug off the shelf with a medium priced filter. Sometimes ill just say **** it, and grab the big silver/grey synthetic jug. The single most important thing is you change your oil when it needs it.
#88
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Ditto… cheap insurance = $6 M1 oil filter or a $2400 rebuild. I started with Casterol Syntec with my car back in 03 when I didn't know any better, but the only combo I will run now is M1 5-30 and M1 filter. Never tried Amsoil, but I have read good reviews.
I swear by M1/M1 now after reading the reviews on BITOG. I even put M1 5-30 in my snowblower!! the manual actually recommended a full synthetic (Simplicity with a 10hp B&S Intek Snow). The only time that ***** boggs now is if I'm charging head first into a 3' bank of drifts in 4th gear, and even then it doesn't really "Bog".
I swear by M1/M1 now after reading the reviews on BITOG. I even put M1 5-30 in my snowblower!! the manual actually recommended a full synthetic (Simplicity with a 10hp B&S Intek Snow). The only time that ***** boggs now is if I'm charging head first into a 3' bank of drifts in 4th gear, and even then it doesn't really "Bog".
Any "quality" oil filter should also be used, so long as it’s NOT ANY STYLE OF FRAM! Fram oil filters are garbage regardless of which one they are, avoid them like the plague. This has also been well documented. You couldn’t pay me to use a Fram filter. Personally, if I couldn’t have my usual choice, a Cummins LF, I’d reach for a Mobil 1 filter. Wix, Hastings, K&N, Royal Purple are also good quality filters.
Like others have said here, a good education can be had over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/
Like others have said here, a good education can be had over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/cms/
Last edited by bayer-z28; 02-01-2011 at 11:07 PM.
#89
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The thing is, I've read reviews on An LS1 engine treated with the M1 system since birth and even after 50,000miles o some crazy number, they tore it apart and you can still see the factory hone marks In the cylinder walls and you couldnt see it when treated with a base dyno-oil from birth. 0_o that was convincing enough for me.
#92
Launching!
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The first time I did, I had already drained the oil before realizing I didn't have a filter wrench, and was trying to remove a Mobil 1 filter. Hands had a little oil on them, and it took me a good 15 minutes lying under the car using my hands to finally get it off. It's not that it was over tight, I just couldn't get a good grip on it.
As far as the oil, I use whatever they have on sale. Usually Penzoil or Castrol 10w-30.
#95
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WalMart 5w-30 and their Filter. Works just fine.
Well, sometimes if I want to get fancy, I use the AC Delco filter.
Well, sometimes if I want to get fancy, I use the AC Delco filter.
Last edited by highgear; 02-25-2011 at 01:29 PM. Reason: AC Delco filter
#96
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The thing is, I've read reviews on An LS1 engine treated with the M1 system since birth and even after 50,000miles o some crazy number, they tore it apart and you can still see the factory hone marks In the cylinder walls and you couldnt see it when treated with a base dyno-oil from birth. 0_o that was convincing enough for me.
I wouldn't let that convince you, my factory ls1 blew and I pulled it apart and could see factory honing at 110k miles, and the people before me never changed the oil. Sludge was literally five Inches deep.
I swear by penzoil platinum and wix, but I wouldn't hesitate to use m1 oil and filter if penzoil platinum was out of stock one day..
#97
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Switched a 5.3 Silverado at 126k and to this day at 155k doesn't leak a drop or use any. Been that way 4 years. I normally buy whatever is on sale, Pennz Platinum, M1, or Castrol Syntec. 0-30 for the car, 5-20 for the wifemobile (with Hyundai filters), 5w-30 for the truck, all in sythetic with AC Delco filters (except Santa Fe). Wix and Napa make one hell of a filter, but I use AC just because they're OEM and easily available. I think people focus WAY too much on what does a good job and what doesn't. There are differences, but at regular intervals they all should do a good job. I've even run Walmart Supertech synthetic a few times with good results. I do the wife's 2008 Santa Fe every 7500 (about every 5 months) and other than being a little dirty, it feels just as it did when I put it in, still alot of life left.
Last edited by ncsu602; 02-26-2011 at 08:19 AM.