New vs Old LS6 Valley Cover ?
01-18-2011, 09:49 PM
#47
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So the consensus is that an external PCV is req with the older style LS6 valley cover and no external PCV is needed for the newer style cover. Service of the newer style cover req replacing the valley cover. Correct?
01-18-2011, 10:45 PM
#48
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Yes, but there isnt any service per se'. There are no moving parts i.e. ball. Its a fixed hole, so the only maintenance would be if it clogged completely.
01-19-2011, 10:12 PM
#49
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There is no servicing to the new style. As long as you change your oil as often as you should and not let it turn to sludge, you shouldn't have to change the valley cover..
I posted here last year, and I want to add, since installing my 04+ LS6 Valley Cover, I have not burned off a DROP of oil. I used to add a quart of oil between changes, now my dipstick tube doesn't drop a bit!
I posted here last year, and I want to add, since installing my 04+ LS6 Valley Cover, I have not burned off a DROP of oil. I used to add a quart of oil between changes, now my dipstick tube doesn't drop a bit!
01-19-2011, 11:20 PM
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Has anyone ever tried this? Found this post from 2003:
I have not seen what the new valley cover looks like so I don't know if this even works.
OK, so last week my friend and I did a H/C swap on my LS1 and I ordered the LS6 valley cover because there was a lot of oil residue on my intake ports, and the combustion chambers and pistons had significant carbon build up.
I was not keen on cutting the aluminum block, so I bagan to consider alternatives. (See JMX web page for installation instructions on the LS6 valley cover that suggest cutting the engine block to allow fitting of PVC oil separator.)
What I came up with is this:
1. take of the old cover off and mark where the block interfers with the new valley cover because of the plastic PVC oil/air separator. (Mine was done with oil smeared on the engine block, but I assume you could use tape or just measure it...)
2. take the plastic oil/air separator of the new valley cover (10 small bolts)
3. With a hack saw blade, cut the plastic separator in three peices in the locations you marked when you placed it in the car. The piece I cut out of the separator was approximately 1.5 inches long.
4. Cut a 4 inch 1/4 diameter piece of copper tubing. Place the tubing on the underside of the new cover. Use red silicone sealant and re-install the two pieces of plastic separator to the under side of the valley cover - bolting them down with the 8 screws. The two peices should be installed over (on top of) the copper tubing...
5. Use high temp red silicone to blcok any remaining open areas in the "patch" to block any areas that could leak air.
6. Let silicone dry and test for leaks using your mouth as suction or an air gun.
7. Bolt the unit on and go back to the JMX directions to compete the plumping to the PVC valve....
This works GREAT and does not require any cutting of your engine block - what else could you ask for!
Unfortunately - i did not take pictures - Uhg!
I was not keen on cutting the aluminum block, so I bagan to consider alternatives. (See JMX web page for installation instructions on the LS6 valley cover that suggest cutting the engine block to allow fitting of PVC oil separator.)
What I came up with is this:
1. take of the old cover off and mark where the block interfers with the new valley cover because of the plastic PVC oil/air separator. (Mine was done with oil smeared on the engine block, but I assume you could use tape or just measure it...)
2. take the plastic oil/air separator of the new valley cover (10 small bolts)
3. With a hack saw blade, cut the plastic separator in three peices in the locations you marked when you placed it in the car. The piece I cut out of the separator was approximately 1.5 inches long.
4. Cut a 4 inch 1/4 diameter piece of copper tubing. Place the tubing on the underside of the new cover. Use red silicone sealant and re-install the two pieces of plastic separator to the under side of the valley cover - bolting them down with the 8 screws. The two peices should be installed over (on top of) the copper tubing...
5. Use high temp red silicone to blcok any remaining open areas in the "patch" to block any areas that could leak air.
6. Let silicone dry and test for leaks using your mouth as suction or an air gun.
7. Bolt the unit on and go back to the JMX directions to compete the plumping to the PVC valve....
This works GREAT and does not require any cutting of your engine block - what else could you ask for!
Unfortunately - i did not take pictures - Uhg!
01-20-2011, 12:27 PM
#54
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Yes you still need to do it for the 04+ ones, because I have one. I was able to get a hacksaw and get in there and cut the block, then vacuum the shavings out. I keep the little chunk I cut out in my center console
01-20-2011, 12:44 PM
#55
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I want to do this but I'm worried about the metal shavings, I guess I could always do an oil change later on to make sure its all out.
01-20-2011, 02:47 PM
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It's really not bad. With a hacksaw, there will be less shavings. I taped up the intake ports and any small openings. Then vacuumed the hell out of the motor, and wiped it down and vacuumed and wiped it down more!. All has been great!
01-20-2011, 03:40 PM
#57
As was posted above it was not a big deal at all. I put a towel down in the valley to catch the metal shavings from the hacksaw and then vacuumed up the few that got past the towel. But running the LS6 valley cover and PCV for 6 years now and it works great no oil consumption and no oil in the intake.
