The fix for my endless alternator failure's
04-06-2011, 03:50 AM
#202
Bringing this back up.
Instead of buying the 145A truck alternator, I'm thinking about having my stock one rebuilt w/ better parts. That way I won't have any of the pulley issues and any possible issues that could arise with there being no rear bracket. My stock alternator has been sitting on my shelf for years (aftermarket one has been hanging on), so why not. Any disadvantages to this?
Also, could a weak alternator lead to idle issues? At idle, my voltage gauge usually hangs out right at 13v or slightly below. When I get idle surging, the gauge bounces around. Now obviously the gauge will drop as the RPMs drop, but I'm wondering if the alternator could be causing the voltage drop instead of visa-versa. I've been trying to diagnose the idle surge and this is just one of the causes I'm trying to investigate since it is a 5-year old aftermarket alternator.
Instead of buying the 145A truck alternator, I'm thinking about having my stock one rebuilt w/ better parts. That way I won't have any of the pulley issues and any possible issues that could arise with there being no rear bracket. My stock alternator has been sitting on my shelf for years (aftermarket one has been hanging on), so why not. Any disadvantages to this?
Also, could a weak alternator lead to idle issues? At idle, my voltage gauge usually hangs out right at 13v or slightly below. When I get idle surging, the gauge bounces around. Now obviously the gauge will drop as the RPMs drop, but I'm wondering if the alternator could be causing the voltage drop instead of visa-versa. I've been trying to diagnose the idle surge and this is just one of the causes I'm trying to investigate since it is a 5-year old aftermarket alternator.
04-06-2011, 02:10 PM
#203
i have never had pulley issues.....and i think if you do there are bigger problems......the alt is bolted to the block with 3 big 15mm bolts......losing that wimpy rear bracket is no big loss.......the biggest problem with the stock alt is the size of the rectifier.......which is not over come with higher amp stockers......the bigger AD244 has the big rectifer which allows for double the amperage at lower rpms than the stock alt
04-06-2011, 05:37 PM
#207
Actually, I found three different rectifier part#s that work w/ the stock alternator.
Same physical size part, but the three diodes are sized either 45amp, 55amp, or ~70amp each if memory serves. I went with the biggest one and have had no further issues.
According to the shop owner, the factory part was specified as 55amp diodes.
The rectifier on the NAPA rebuilt alternator that had failed me on a road course had 45amp diodes and one had popped. I was running the engine in the 4000-6000rpm range for 30+ minutes at a time.
Same physical size part, but the three diodes are sized either 45amp, 55amp, or ~70amp each if memory serves. I went with the biggest one and have had no further issues.
According to the shop owner, the factory part was specified as 55amp diodes.
The rectifier on the NAPA rebuilt alternator that had failed me on a road course had 45amp diodes and one had popped. I was running the engine in the 4000-6000rpm range for 30+ minutes at a time.
04-06-2011, 08:06 PM
#209
Or, in the case of my NAPA rebuilt alternator, you can stuff tiny 45a diodes into a housing designed for 55a ones...and cost me 1/2 of a really nice track day.
It remains a fact that the stock alternator is a robust piece under normal conditions. The bulk of the failure complaints we've seen here involve cheap chi-com rebuilds, probably w/ the same 45a wimpy diodes.
It remains a fact that the stock alternator is a robust piece under normal conditions. The bulk of the failure complaints we've seen here involve cheap chi-com rebuilds, probably w/ the same 45a wimpy diodes.
04-07-2011, 04:03 PM
#210
Check this out guys. Not sure if this is a fix or is irrelevant.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=668
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=669
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=668
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=669
04-08-2011, 05:45 AM
#212
I swapped in the truck alternator and have had great success with it. I'd rather simply swap out an alternator than worry about soldering parts back and forth on the alternator.
There are so many stinkin 145 amp truck alternators out there that can be had for less than $50, it doesn't make sense to worry about any other bandaid fixes.
It's comparable to if we could swap in a rear that had a 9" center section with stronger axles and factory 3.73 gears, and bolted up perfectly for $400, why would you bother with spending $2400 on a 12-bolt or bandaid fixing the factory 10-bolt? You would simply go to a junkyard and pick up a lower mileage rear when needed and do the swap. Well that's what we have here with the truck alternator. It's got higher amps, puts out more amperage at a lower rpm, and are a dime-a-dozen in junkyards or ebay, and they bolt in no problem.
There are so many stinkin 145 amp truck alternators out there that can be had for less than $50, it doesn't make sense to worry about any other bandaid fixes.
It's comparable to if we could swap in a rear that had a 9" center section with stronger axles and factory 3.73 gears, and bolted up perfectly for $400, why would you bother with spending $2400 on a 12-bolt or bandaid fixing the factory 10-bolt? You would simply go to a junkyard and pick up a lower mileage rear when needed and do the swap. Well that's what we have here with the truck alternator. It's got higher amps, puts out more amperage at a lower rpm, and are a dime-a-dozen in junkyards or ebay, and they bolt in no problem.
04-18-2011, 01:22 AM
#214
EDIT: for clarity of what alternator is needed. Get a 99-2003 Truck alternator (may even apply to up to around 2005), 145 amp, 4 pin connector, the code junk yards use to identify it is "KG3". The standard truck alternator is a 105, Escalades and such trucks with a lot of electronics use the 145. When I ordered mine I told them it was a 2003 truck, 145 amp, 4 pin connector, and they figured it out.
I posted a thread a while back about having alternator after alternator fail, one literally lasted about 5 minutes.
Long story short I tested every thing multiple times and even replaced the exciter wire and connector, never could find an issue and it all started when I replaced the factory original alternator with an aftermarket one, and it was all downhill from there.
The fix.... A truck alternator. I got the idea from another board member that the truck alternator actually fits the F body cars, so I went to the junk yard and spent $40 on a used 2003 Truck 145 amp alternator bolted it in and the voltage has never been more stable.
The 145 amp truck alternator only has one simple modification that needs to be made to use it, it does not use the rear support bracket that the F body alternator does so remove the one bolt and bracket, other than that it bolts directly in, plugs directly up, and works good!! So for less money you can have an higher amperage output, more stable, more durable alternator if you go this route. The pulley was even the same, this couldn't be easier.
I am going to add a wire from the back of the alternator to the battery to help carry the extra amperage since it has been stated the factory wire isn't even enough for the puny stock alternator.
I hope this helps anyone else with the same issues, here is the link to my original thread if you feel like reading more details of the problems I was having
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ders-here.html
I posted a thread a while back about having alternator after alternator fail, one literally lasted about 5 minutes.
Long story short I tested every thing multiple times and even replaced the exciter wire and connector, never could find an issue and it all started when I replaced the factory original alternator with an aftermarket one, and it was all downhill from there.
The fix.... A truck alternator. I got the idea from another board member that the truck alternator actually fits the F body cars, so I went to the junk yard and spent $40 on a used 2003 Truck 145 amp alternator bolted it in and the voltage has never been more stable.
The 145 amp truck alternator only has one simple modification that needs to be made to use it, it does not use the rear support bracket that the F body alternator does so remove the one bolt and bracket, other than that it bolts directly in, plugs directly up, and works good!! So for less money you can have an higher amperage output, more stable, more durable alternator if you go this route. The pulley was even the same, this couldn't be easier.
I am going to add a wire from the back of the alternator to the battery to help carry the extra amperage since it has been stated the factory wire isn't even enough for the puny stock alternator.
I hope this helps anyone else with the same issues, here is the link to my original thread if you feel like reading more details of the problems I was having
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ders-here.html
my stock atl. at idel (set at 590RPM) w/ AC an radio on charges real low close to the red area so I usalley turn off the AC sometime the radio to. this only happens in the Summer when temps. are above 85 degrees been like this for about 6 years.
Hopfully this ad244 will charge at the correct voltage level so I can keep the AC on.
I have never done an alt. swap. I haven't even held a alt. in my hands and observed the connection pins I only want to crawl under there once to swap alt..
couple of ?s
weatherpak clip 244 input pigtail.?how long is this pigtail? doe's it extend to the battery? and doe's it replace all atl. related wires?
?how much bending of the power steering line is required?
jugding from the images I'm assumming the rubber part of PS line contacts the atl and the line is bent a little so when the alt gets hot it won't melt the PS line insulation?
I would like a larger wire out of atl. to the battery. image of this would be a big help.
?1.how do you connect a larger wire out of the alt. wire harness?
?2.how do you connect a larger wire out of the alt. to the battery?
?3. doe's the ad244 have 145 amps ingraved on it?
?4. since the ad244 case is larger can a larger diode be soildered in for even more than 145 amps?
?5.did you use locite on the 2 mounting bolts? and what did you torque these bolts to? or did you just tighten?
?6.where is the exciter wire?
?7. I have looked at the alt. from under the car and did'nt see a way to connect a larger wire to the output of alt. to battery (basically completeing my big 3 I currently only have the big 2).
doe's the alt. have to be unbolted to remove and reattach these alt. wires?
?8. have you weighted both orginal and the AD244 I bet the ad244 is heavier.
I have read that a 55" fatter wire is used from output of alt. to battery.
any tips on connector types and how to do. the big 3 stickie has no images.
is there a step by step writeup on alt. swap.
BTW: nice looking Camaro in the driveway. what is a built ten bolt. welded tubes, upgraded axels. girdle, Alburn diff. mircomic treated ring & pinion?
Last edited by badmfkr; 04-18-2011 at 08:23 AM.
04-28-2011, 05:21 PM
#215
so for those with LQ9 blocks that dont have the 2nd bolt hole up top in the front, How do we go about installing the truck alt?
Currently I have a LQ9 block with the ls1 alt bracket and alt. My powersteering fluid leaked all over it and it crapped out. I bought the 145 truck amp, but it looks like theres only one whole that allows me to bolt up which is the bolt on the very bottom.
The ls1 alt has a bracket up top, that allows a bolt to actually bolt to the alternator itself.
any ideas?
Currently I have a LQ9 block with the ls1 alt bracket and alt. My powersteering fluid leaked all over it and it crapped out. I bought the 145 truck amp, but it looks like theres only one whole that allows me to bolt up which is the bolt on the very bottom.
The ls1 alt has a bracket up top, that allows a bolt to actually bolt to the alternator itself.
any ideas?
04-28-2011, 10:00 PM
#217
excellent thread thanks for sharing the knowlegde. I read the intire thread learned about alts. pulleys, belts internales of alts. testing prceedures ect.
my stock atl. at idel (set at 590RPM) w/ AC an radio on charges real low close to the red area so I usalley turn off the AC sometime the radio to. this only happens in the Summer when temps. are above 85 degrees been like this for about 6 years.
Hopfully this ad244 will charge at the correct voltage level so I can keep the AC on.
I have never done an alt. swap. I haven't even held a alt. in my hands and observed the connection pins I only want to crawl under there once to swap alt..
couple of ?s
weatherpak clip 244 input pigtail.?how long is this pigtail? doe's it extend to the battery? and doe's it replace all atl. related wires?
?how much bending of the power steering line is required?
jugding from the images I'm assumming the rubber part of PS line contacts the atl and the line is bent a little so when the alt gets hot it won't melt the PS line insulation?
I would like a larger wire out of atl. to the battery. image of this would be a big help.
?1.how do you connect a larger wire out of the alt. wire harness?
?2.how do you connect a larger wire out of the alt. to the battery?
?3. doe's the ad244 have 145 amps ingraved on it?
?4. since the ad244 case is larger can a larger diode be soildered in for even more than 145 amps?
?5.did you use locite on the 2 mounting bolts? and what did you torque these bolts to? or did you just tighten?
?6.where is the exciter wire?
?7. I have looked at the alt. from under the car and did'nt see a way to connect a larger wire to the output of alt. to battery (basically completeing my big 3 I currently only have the big 2).
doe's the alt. have to be unbolted to remove and reattach these alt. wires?
?8. have you weighted both orginal and the AD244 I bet the ad244 is heavier.
I have read that a 55" fatter wire is used from output of alt. to battery.
any tips on connector types and how to do. the big 3 stickie has no images.
is there a step by step writeup on alt. swap.
BTW: nice looking Camaro in the driveway. what is a built ten bolt. welded tubes, upgraded axels. girdle, Alburn diff. mircomic treated ring & pinion?
my stock atl. at idel (set at 590RPM) w/ AC an radio on charges real low close to the red area so I usalley turn off the AC sometime the radio to. this only happens in the Summer when temps. are above 85 degrees been like this for about 6 years.
Hopfully this ad244 will charge at the correct voltage level so I can keep the AC on.
I have never done an alt. swap. I haven't even held a alt. in my hands and observed the connection pins I only want to crawl under there once to swap alt..
couple of ?s
weatherpak clip 244 input pigtail.?how long is this pigtail? doe's it extend to the battery? and doe's it replace all atl. related wires?
?how much bending of the power steering line is required?
jugding from the images I'm assumming the rubber part of PS line contacts the atl and the line is bent a little so when the alt gets hot it won't melt the PS line insulation?
I would like a larger wire out of atl. to the battery. image of this would be a big help.
?1.how do you connect a larger wire out of the alt. wire harness?
?2.how do you connect a larger wire out of the alt. to the battery?
?3. doe's the ad244 have 145 amps ingraved on it?
?4. since the ad244 case is larger can a larger diode be soildered in for even more than 145 amps?
?5.did you use locite on the 2 mounting bolts? and what did you torque these bolts to? or did you just tighten?
?6.where is the exciter wire?
?7. I have looked at the alt. from under the car and did'nt see a way to connect a larger wire to the output of alt. to battery (basically completeing my big 3 I currently only have the big 2).
doe's the alt. have to be unbolted to remove and reattach these alt. wires?
?8. have you weighted both orginal and the AD244 I bet the ad244 is heavier.
I have read that a 55" fatter wire is used from output of alt. to battery.
any tips on connector types and how to do. the big 3 stickie has no images.
is there a step by step writeup on alt. swap.
BTW: nice looking Camaro in the driveway. what is a built ten bolt. welded tubes, upgraded axels. girdle, Alburn diff. mircomic treated ring & pinion?
2 the PS hose only needs a little tweaking to move out of the way.......not a big deal......you will have to install the alt to know how much to tweak
3 you can leave the stock wiring in place if you put in a larger gauge wire.....run a larger wire from the stud on the alt to the pos terminal on the batt
4 there is no outside identification on the alt that i am aware of....and remember the ad244 came in a 105amp and 145amp version
5 if you get a monster ad244 they will replace the diodes with a higher amp version
6 you delete the rear mounting bracket and bolts from the stocker
7 the exciter wire is the wire coming out of the alt to the PCM
8 you can use locktite.......not sure of the exact TQ specs
9 a larger wire can be used.......its not hard.......i have done it myself......when wiring the alt it does not have to be removed
10 the ad244 is much larger than the stocker and does weigh more.......not sure of the exact weight
11 copper lugs soldered on the wire make excellent connectors
12 i am sure there is a write up some where.......i do not know of 1 off hand
go forth and upgrade young padawan
Last edited by sjsingle1; 04-29-2011 at 12:36 AM.
