00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Maybe I don't understand what you meant but im picturing that you have the alternator wire ran to the switch, which to me doesn't make sense.

Wouldn't it make more sense to run the big wire into the kill switch directly out of the battery then the other side of the switch could have the big wire going to the fuse block terminal. From the fuse block terminal you could run a wire to the back of the alternator and to the starter. This way when you turn the switch off and kill the connection from the big wire going to the fuse box you kill everything that is powered.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Did you ever have issues with the truck alt?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

nope.......i just have more amps now

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Mine is still holding strong as well.

JoshuaGrooms83

iTrader: (2)

SAme here.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Awesome!

Hey do either of ya'll have an issue with belt squeal? My main belt sqeaks and squeals till it warms up. The belt I took off did the same thing, my pulleys are almost all brand new or in great shape.

The tensioner pulley is new (high wall pulley from a SC Buick) the water pump is fairly new, the idler pulley is new, the power steering pump pulley is new, and everything seems to line up okay.

I may have to try a Goodyear Gatorback belt they are good about silencing pesky belt noises when nothing wrong can be found.

But I would like to know if anyone else has an issue with it.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Hey man can you do me a huge favor please?

Can you set your truck alternator and your original F boat alternator on a flat surface pulley side down and see if the mounting tabs are even or offset. I think my belt noise might have to do witht the truck alternator sitting a hair more forward but I don't have my old alternator to compare to.

krissoto

iTrader: (3)

I was advised when I did this set up, that I needed to run a wire on the other side of the switch to the alt to kill the alt, or the car would still stay running. Either way, if I could switch the wires around and make it work I guess I will. Im gonna have a buddy help me with a voltometer.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

as soon as i have them together.....the truck alt is at my dads

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Oh that definately makes sense, I was not picturing the big picture...so to speak. Now I understand why it's that way I was not considering the alternator keeping the car running. I was more picturing just the logics of the wiring layout not the safety shut down and all functions. So considering that, don't change it.

Thanks man, if they are different could you measure the amount of set back so that I can remove that amount of material from my housing and then shim it. Appreciate any help you can offer.

HibachiZ28

iTrader: (5)

Thanks to this thread I'll be going out to grab a truck alternator ASAP. I just did a search of my local salvage yards for this alternator. I found one local shop 15 miles away that has 8 in stock from: 03-05 Yukon, Silverado, Tahoe, Envoy XL for $95. And some other shops 25-253 miles away that have 'em as low as $40. May pick one up this up coming week before I dyno-tune the car.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Cool man let us know how it goes for you!

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

from what I understand the big 3 consists of
1.battery neg. to body (ground)

2.alternater case also to ground connected to the engine block bypassing the rubber engine mounts.

3.alternater output to positive of battery.

now I read here, a fuse box feed needs upgrading

so I ask is the big 3, is it actualley the big 4?

or is it even the big 5 upgrading the starter wire also?

Thanks

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

You somehow mis-interpreted everything that was posted. Nothing was posted here that changed the big 3 from what it always was. What you have read in here "now" is the discussion of wiring of a race car and a discussion of the different type of wiring it uses since it incorporates shut off switches etc..

The big 3 is still exactly the same...

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Well, bad news. The truck alternator that I put in last summer is now dead, at least I think.

It was working fine, and then I installed my procharger and when I fired up the car, my voltmeter in the dash stayed in the red.

I know the battery was charged as I had it on my battery tender and was at ~12.8v and fully charged. I checked the exciter wire and I get 12v with the motor off and key on, so I know it's getting voltage to the alternator.

I'm going to take the alternator to Pepboys or NAPA and have it checked, but I'm a little pissed about it right now because to drop the alternator, I had to drop the procharger as well.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Ah that suck's man, I sure wouldn't think it would go bad though sitting there, did you remove the power wire or anything while you were doing the procharger install? Maybe not have the wire on the back hooked up solid? A buddy dropped the hot wire on the case one time and shorted out the alternator, not that you did that but throwing it out there.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

That's the weird thing, I didn't touch the alternator at all, neither the wiring to the battery or the exciter wire doing the install. All I did was remove the two bolts and replaced them with studs for the procharger mounting bracket. I'm really perplexed as to how it just died all of a sudden when only a few weeks ago it was working fine. Honestly, I'm trying to remember exactly when the last time I drove the car was, because typically it's back and forth to work which is a good 30 minutes of driving and I know the battery would not have lasted that long without the alternator working.

I was hoping it was something simple that was wrong, but I don't think it is. I plan to take the suspect alternator to Pep Boys or autozone and have them confirm it's bad. If it's fine, then I'm back to the drawing board trying to figure out why it's not charging.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Yeah I doub't the battery would have lasted either, well let us know man.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Well, this is pissing me off. I actually have two truck alternators because last summer, the first one I bought off ebay didn't work when it showed up. Mounted it, start the car, and the voltage never moved off 11.8 volts. So I reinstalled the factory one, contacted the ebay seller, and he sent me another truck alternator, and that one worked. The seller didn't want me to send back the other one, so I stuck it in the basement.

Fast forward to this weekend. Got the procharger back up and running and the alternator isn't charging. So today, after work, I went to Pep Boys and had them check both of the truck alternators that I have and guess what, both alternators checked out fine.

So on the ride home, the only thing I thought it could be was the actual mounting of the alternator in the bracket. I was thinking that by going to the studs for the procharger, and not having that back mounting bracket, maybe I wasn't getting a good ground.

So I got home and cleaned up the mounting locations with a file, and mounted one of the alternators, crossed my fingers and started the car and nothing, voltmeter off the back of the postivie terminal on the alternator reads 11.8 volts which is the battery's voltage. So my next step was to add a grounding strap from the case of the alternator to the frame and still nothing.

So now I'm really f'in perplexed. I've got two alternators on my workbench that supposedly both check out fine, but I can't get either of them to work. What's next, the exiter wire? I checked that on Saturday and with the motor off, and the key on, it gets 11.8 volts, again, the same as the battery.

So does anyone have any suggestions?

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Alternators can be down on performance & still test as acceptable. There's a company that sells bad-*** rebuild kits for these alternators. I don't recall the company, but, a search can find them easily. Once mine starts fading, I'm re-building w/ one of their kits.