sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

another happy customer

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

My alternator took a dump yesterday, so I pulled the one off my spare 5.3 in the garage and slapped it on there. Works great! Also ordered a spare KG3 off ebay just in case this one was a 105a. Great thread, thanks OP!

SpinsB

iTrader: (5)

I know this is an old thread but does anyone know the gm part number for the 145 amp alt AD244 ??

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

GM only sells reman alts.....and i have never seen a P/N on a alt....if you get a rebuild you are gambling on the quality of it......which is why it is always good to get the junkyard alts.....they are cheap and the AD244 seems to last a lot longer than the CS130

HibachiZ28

iTrader: (5)

Mine is still running great *knock on wood*. Dyno'd it (3 runs) without issue. Prior alt's would've been toasted...

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

That's awesome man, glad a simple alternator could fix all those problems.

Haha, they just keep coming!

Bahaha that's awesome, the one on the 5.3 is very likely to be a 105 but who cares, that is the same as what came off of the car and it was virtually free!

Good to hear man

salemetro

iTrader: (5)

My small contribution to this thread:

If you're calling a wrecking yard that uses "Hollander Interchange" type software (many/most of them do)...just ask for this #

601-949 (145 amp, kg3 option)

It might make it a little easier for ya.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Awesome thanks! I'll add this to the initial post

mrrman

marked and may buy one...my alt went a few weeks back and was rebuilt...a little leary about rebuilt parts though

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

I'll share my story on this great thread since I read all the pages and my story might help some plp;

I had my stock alternator rebuilt to 240amp locally, held up alright for a while(1-2 short summer)...but the old voltage drop at WOT trouble finally came back

The voltage is always high at idle or at cruising under 2500rpm on highway, but gets in the red around 10amp very fast when going at WOT for a full gear. Back at idle or below 2000rpm, it gets back slowly at 12.8-13.2

So I redid my battery's positive pole connection since it was a bit of a mess(I already did the big 3 mod, but not completly, as I found out..). The problem is still there, but the voltage gets back a tad faster to 13 than before on idle.

So I decided to recheck fuse and grounds and I found something; the ground from the engine mount to chassi is kinda old and crappy looking. I shake it a bit and it gets loose fast! I pull on it a bit harder and snap! It was so weak that it was barely holding! So I unbolt the other end bolted to chassis and I notice that its almost cut completly; it holds by 1mm on the metal ring!

So I forgot to redo the engine to chassis wire when doing the big 3 mod. So I finished the job by I tooking the easiest way; connect a huge 4gauge wire from chassis stock location to the alternator rack bolt.

Started the car and the voltage is sitting at a solid 14 at least, which it never ever did since I own this car(6years!). I'll do a road test tomorrow cause the neighboors will kill me if I continu to work/start/test drive this late!! lol

update to come... I hope for the best!

mrrman

[QUOTE=Johnnystock;15273669]I'll share my story on this great thread since I read all the pages and my story might help some plp;

I
So I decided to recheck fuse and grounds and I found something; the ground from the engine mount to chassi is kinda old and crappy looking. I shake it a bit and it gets loose fast! I pull on it a bit harder and snap! It was so weak that it was barely holding! So I unbolt the other end bolted to chassis and I notice that its almost cut completly; it holds by 1mm on the metal ring!

So I forgot to redo the engine to chassis wire when doing the big 3 mod. So I finished the job by I tooking the easiest way; connect a huge 4gauge wire from chassis stock location to the alternator rack bolt.



How do you change this connection? I cant access the engine gnd since the area is so tight. I have an 87 TA.

Thanks

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

^^I did it under the car and it was a bit tight, but not that much. If you youre having hard times, simply cut it as close as the motor mount is and simply unbolt the other end of the wire..

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

**TEST DRIVE SUPDATE**

My ground didnt change ****

So I'm up to it; I'll get a truck alternator and try it..f*** I'm tired of this, especially after doing a clutch swap and not beeing able to enjoy the damn car..GRRRR

Johnnystock

iTrader: (6)

***THE CAR IS RUNNING ALL TIME AT 13.1-14, EVEN WOT WITH A/C, STEREO AND N20 HEATER LIKE IT NEVER DID BEFORE!! THIS IS WITH A TRUCK GMC SIERRA DENALI 2004 145AMP ALTERNATOR****

THANKS OP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cant believe I went through all that ****...

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

another happy customer !!!

99peweterls1

iTrader: (1)

I have put two 145 amp alternators and they were new. My car keeps burning them up in a months time. The diodes on the back are worn down, any clue as to whats going on?

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I went through hell for a good year with mine before I figured it out, and being my daily driver it was killing me, at the time I was wearing a tie to work and several times had to pull over on the side of the road to work on my car it really pissed me off.

LOL

New? As in new from the parts store? If so that may be the problem, I went through nearly 10 parts store alternators, yes they were just the regular 105 amp ones but still they were complete ****. I bought a 145 amp truck alternator from the junkyard for $43.30, I got mine from LKQ.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I have a chance to obtain a ad244 for $45.+ $5. core + tax

alt. came off an 02 subruban w/ 120K miles man said on the phone it did'nt have grease or oil on it and it was'nt all corredored.

Edit: I did'nt ask, however the man said when you take this alt. to auto zone for a test they will tell you to replace it it's bad that's what they tell everyone. he also said the alt was working fine when he took it off.

?do's autozone rig there tests.

do'es this alt. have too many miles?

there will be a 30 day guantee however I may wait longer than that to put it on due to the heat outside.

I have found this alt. not easy to obtain and when available the prices usalley start around $80.+


should I purchase this atl.?

Thanks

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i would trust a junkyard alt over a rebuild anyday......put it in and try it out

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Sounds like bad bearings, exchange it, yes tell him it is noisy on the car. I got mine from LKQ for $43. Call LKQ.

My stock camaro alt had 160 or so thousand miles and the bearings were fine, 120k isn't too bad, would prefer lower mileage but you could also take that alternator to a repair shop and have them replace the bearings for pretty cheap.

And yes the fans use a LOT of amperage!