The fix for my endless alternator failure's
09-08-2010, 09:18 PM
#142
99-04 Off of a 5.3 or 6.0 truck/suburban/tahoe/van/whatever. Its RPO code KG8 for the 145 amp. They also have a 130 amp that should work fine as well, I think thats more common on the SUV's.
Also, before you start working on it make sure you have a nut for the terminal, I figured they were the same and I was wrong, so I had to dig around and find one.
Also, before you start working on it make sure you have a nut for the terminal, I figured they were the same and I was wrong, so I had to dig around and find one.
09-08-2010, 10:03 PM
#143
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99-04 Off of a 5.3 or 6.0 truck/suburban/tahoe/van/whatever. Its RPO code KG8 for the 145 amp. They also have a 130 amp that should work fine as well, I think thats more common on the SUV's.
Also, before you start working on it make sure you have a nut for the terminal, I figured they were the same and I was wrong, so I had to dig around and find one.
Also, before you start working on it make sure you have a nut for the terminal, I figured they were the same and I was wrong, so I had to dig around and find one.
You don't use the rear mounting point (13mm bolt), right?
09-08-2010, 10:11 PM
#144
Nope. I left the bracket there though, it does not interfere with mounting the new alt. There is also plenty of wire on the stock plug to reach. The only thing I did was bend the PS lines a little bit, as they were about 1/2 inch away from the side of the alt.
10-05-2010, 06:06 PM
#145
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Just wanted to throw this in. Make sure the alternator you order has the "oval" connector for the small wire PED connector (exciter wire I believe it's called). I told my parts guy 145amp 4 pin "2000-2003" year and ended up with an escalade alternator that fit great but had to order a square connector and splice the wire to it in order to plug that part in...shamrock chevy had to ship it in, took 3 days.
Most of them came with an "oval" piggyback on the car, but some have a square one and they don't stock the square connector cause very few used it.
Just something to watch out for.
Kyle
Most of them came with an "oval" piggyback on the car, but some have a square one and they don't stock the square connector cause very few used it.
Just something to watch out for.
Kyle
11-24-2010, 09:52 PM
#149
SOMETHING HERE IS LEFT UN-IDENTIFIED !!!! our f-body has a 2 pin & the new alternator has a 4 pin style ...... where to get the connector & how do we rewire the truck alt ???
11-27-2010, 03:43 PM
#150
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Thanks to the OP and sjsingle - I went out to Princeton and picked up a 145amp AD244 from a 2004 Yukon XL to replace the new Ultima 102amp that had failed within a month of purchase. The alternator slipped right up past the fan shroud and was an easy mount - It doesn't look like I need to change belts but hard to tell for sure. I'm cranking out 13 amps at idle on a hot engine with ac blowing hard and 1000w amp cranked up - hope it's the last time I have to change an alternator for a while, but we shall see.
Might look to do the "Big 3" upgrade though the "sticky" has lost all it's pictures
Might look to do the "Big 3" upgrade though the "sticky" has lost all it's pictures
12-05-2010, 11:37 PM
#152
Thanks to the OP and sjsingle - I went out to Princeton and picked up a 145amp AD244 from a 2004 Yukon XL to replace the new Ultima 102amp that had failed within a month of purchase. The alternator slipped right up past the fan shroud and was an easy mount - It doesn't look like I need to change belts but hard to tell for sure. I'm cranking out 13 amps at idle on a hot engine with ac blowing hard and 1000w amp cranked up - hope it's the last time I have to change an alternator for a while, but we shall see.
Might look to do the "Big 3" upgrade though the "sticky" has lost all it's pictures
Might look to do the "Big 3" upgrade though the "sticky" has lost all it's pictures
I do have a small issue though, I am having belt squeal issues, even after replacing the belt, the alignment seems to be a hair off at the the alternator to idler pulley to crank pulley area, anyone else having any issues? I did change the idler pulley at the same time so it could be that pulley, but I lost the factory original so I cannot test that theory, if someone had one even with a bad bearing I would be interested in it.
12-06-2010, 11:49 PM
#154
I used a stethoscope and the squeal is coming from where the belt enters the crank pulley, so all this gathered info tells me the belt is a bit forward where it enters back onto the crank pulley. So either the Alternator pushed the belt forward and it now rides closer to the front of the idler pulley, or the idler pulley does not stick out as far and the belt runs on the rounded nose pushing the belt forward. I don't have either one of the original parts (alt or idler) to test this though
12-07-2010, 03:26 PM
#157
the pulley was new............the bracket was old......but i do have a new 1 i did not install.......in 2000 there was a TSB about the pulley so they were changed.....so there are 2 different sizes.....make sure you get the right 1 if you do get a new 1......the sqeaks drove me crazy........every pulley is new along with the belt
12-07-2010, 08:18 PM
#158
the pulley was new............the bracket was old......but i do have a new 1 i did not install.......in 2000 there was a TSB about the pulley so they were changed.....so there are 2 different sizes.....make sure you get the right 1 if you do get a new 1......the sqeaks drove me crazy........every pulley is new along with the belt
12-07-2010, 08:30 PM
#159
The pulley I have on there now is a new one from Oreilly's and it is the same diameter as the one I took off. I also have a new water pump, new tensioner pulley, new power steering pump pulley (old one broke, dont ask lol) so pretty much all my pulleys are mint... I don't know what the hell the problem is.