94'BLKBRD

iTrader: (76)

Check your battery connections and battery. Also, check the power wire going from the alternator to battery.

colby72olds

iTrader: (7)

Well the battery is brand new too but it's dead now because of the alternator. The wires are good, I just checked them with a multi meter. I've only used one a couple times but as far as I know all the wires had continuity. Gah this **** is so aggravating!

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

The alternators fail because the remans use cheap diodes that are rated under the factory specs. The diodes get hot faster and will overheat the unit within minutes. I went through the same thing with AC Delco remans, the diodes in them couldn't carry the load like a brand new one.

colby72olds

iTrader: (7)

But the alternator tested good, and my car didn't run but for MAYBE 5 seconds before I realized it wasn't charging and the battery died. I could understand if it charged at all and then quit working, but it wasn't charging from the get-go.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

If your batt died in 5 minutes, it's in need of attention also.

It's already been posted that chain-store rebuilds sometimes use junky rectifiers that can't take heavy load. A dead batt puts heavy load on the alt.

colby72olds

iTrader: (7)

My battery is dead from the times i've crank/drove it without the alternator charging. It's also been posted that my alternator tested fine. Don't mean that bad but I would think that when they tested it at auto zone that it would've failed if it was bad?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

seems even a crappy alt can test good........thats why so many go thru remans so quick

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

As the other guy stated, he made them run multiple tests before they determined it was bad. Which would make sense because a 15 second alternator check won't determine if it's good or not, sometimes it requires continuous use which would make it hotter and overheat causing it to fail. I'm almost positive your alternator is bad, whether you go get a brand new one from the parts store or not... they will more than likely have smaller weaker diodes when the factory already made them very small. I had my battery tested (Optima red top) before I put the truck alternator in and it read out 65 cranking amps of a possible 800. So me driving around with a brand new reman alternator in combination with a low battery which the alternator will never fully charge, could have burned them up too. It took 2 days to fully charge the battery on a trickle charge and it read 850 when I picked it up.

This whole thread is about upgrading to the truck alternator. The original poster had store bought remans and I had AC Delco remans from the dealer and they failed too. So instead of spending alot of money for a high performance alternator ($200+ or rebuild yours for under a $100), the quick, inexpensive upgrade is to use the truck one. Not reaming you but alot of people keep PM'ing me and posting to this thread asking the same questions that have already been answered. So it could be your battery is low, exciter wire bad, bad ground, bad power wires etc... try the truck one before anything else and see if it solves the problem.

colby72olds

iTrader: (7)

Alright thanks man

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

One would think that Delco would get the clue and fix the diode issues. I mean reman GM Delco units SHOULD meet the spec, RIGHT!? :-(

Also, in the case of a weak or dying battery, is there an alternator can deal with that situation without failing due to that condition?

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

If the answer to that question isn't clear after 6 pages of this discussion, have somebody else read it for you.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

the rectifiers on the truck alt

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

rectifiers on the stock alt

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

What do you do with a dead alternator? The one I bought off ebay was dead upon arrival, and contacted the seller (parts-yard) and they are sending another unit but told me to keep the other one as iit useless to them. So is there a way to figure out what's wrong with it, and to fix it?

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Check your phone book and find an automotive starter or generator repair shop. Take it to them and ask for a repair/rebuild estimate, you might find it's worth having fixed.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

Since you already have the broke alternator, the repair place can replace the damaged parts with better quality ones for around $50-$100. I think you blew it after not disconnecting the battery when you touched the wires. Would be the same thing if you unhooked the battery with the engine running... it would blow the alternator. Also, that picture is missing the back cover, I'm assuming you took it off.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

If you're referring to me. I had grounded out the alternator positive terminal when removing the factory alternator, which I have re-installed and other than a screaching bearing, is charging fine. It was the replacment truck alternator that when installed didn't charge at all.

Ryanmgaspard

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=The Alchemist;13641922]So the alternator came yesterday, bolted it up this morning but was an idiot and forgot to disconnect the battery before unbolting the cable off the back of the alterator. It sparked, I felt stupid and should know better, but disconnected the battery, finished removing the stock alternator, then bolted up the one I bought.
QUOTE]

I just read the post wrong.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i posted the pics so every 1 can see the size diff between rectifiers........the back covers come off pretty easy

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

FYI, just picking up my SS today, Delco alternator failed again -- 4th one in two years. Luckily I have an extended warranty covering most of it. ($100 deductible, but also had a trans leak from previous GM shop work they fixed).