is the pulley size different between the stock LS1 alternator and the AD244?

 

Pulley size is the same.

 

Phuch a bunch of junk yard junk get a brand new a 130 amp silverado alternator for $142 at rockauto.com not or get or a new one from summit racing for $149. There is a reason why they call it a junk yard....

 

If you have a procharger and get a truck alternator, you need to replace the pulley bolt with a 12 point head. The regular bolt hit the main belt slightly.

 

Does anyone have the dimensions on the truck alternator compared to the stock one? I've got my alternator relocated and it's extremely close to the cylinder head. I had to cut the plastic cover to allow it to fit.

 

which relocation kit do you have? both sponsors Modular Turbo and Motovative have verified the truck alternators fit.

 

Need some ideas guys. I had a power steering leak take out my stock alternator so I figured I would upgrade it while I was at it. I fixed the leak and put in a 170amp truck alternator (ad244) and upgraded the wiring to 4ga (big 3).

Now at hot idle I get random voltage drops that make the lights flicker. A voltmeter on the battery shows about 14.5 volts and it drops to around 13.8. If the car is moving/driving the voltage is rock solid and there aren't any problems.

I have been looking for signs of power steering leaks and the new alternator is spotless.

Anyone have some suggestions?

 

^^Did you get the cheap alternator from Autozone? I had the same thing happen on a previous car. If there was any sort of throttle on it, the lights flickering did not happen along with the voltage drop.

 

Mine did a slight voltage drop at idle for awhile and I had a junkyard one. The voltage drop soon went away, maybe the computer adjusted. BTW I did the big 3 upgrade as well and still had the slight voltage drop but no flickering.

 

I got a 170 amp HD AD244 from alternatorparts.com

So it is not cheap

Any chance of it being defective?

 

Finally finished my KG3 (with Big 3) install this weekend and couldn't be happier. At cold start-up the gauge is reading right at 14.5 volts, and no matter the temperature or accessory load, it never drops below 13.2ish. Also, no dash light flicker...100% steady illumination. Lastly, the oem sized accessory belt fits just fine. When I first reinstalled it, the tensioner was nearly maxed out. But after a 10 minute test drive, it settled down to the second notch.

Don't forget to lengthen the exciter wire several inches.

 

This whole thread was started because I had about 10 alternators from the store fail one right after another, the junkyard alternator I put on has lasted well past a year with not one single issue.....

 

The one I installed was on there for over a year with no issues. It looked like hell when I found it too. It was pretty rusty and dirty but I cleaned it up and it worked just fine. There is too much thought going into this thread....

 

Yup, too many people that think they know what they are talking about without doing the testing to back it up.... and also too many not reading the pages and pages of information in this thread.

Another great fact about junk yards that people forget to think about, almost every single car there was running down the road before whatever happened to it caused it to be there, so the parts are very likely to be in working order. Oh well, some people just have to learn the hard way...

 

The one that came on the car new from GM lasted 225,000+ miles before it died and I replaced it with another new one. After 20,000+ trouble free miles I think that I made the correct purchase.

 

Thank you for posting that, getting 225,000 miles out of your original is the EXACT reason I went to a junk yard, the OEM units last. I bought one with 100k on it for $40. So I spent at least $150 less than you did and should get at least 100k miles of service out of the alternator.

Beyond what I posted above, I also now have a higher output alternator that runs my system better, I don't have WOT alternator failures anymore, and I could buy at least 4 more working alternators from the junkyard and still only have spent as much as an off the shelf alternator. If I buy 4 more, and I buy each one with around 100k, and they tend to last till 200k, sounds like I will get 500k+ miles of service from these alternators for the same price as an off the shelf alternator. The alternators off the shelf even failed when I took the system out of the car, I had nearly 10 fail dude, the junkyard one is flawless... Starting to see more of why I used the junkyard?

You are fortunate to have gotten a quality rebuild/new alternator, many of us have had trouble with off the shelf alternators and we fixed those problems with one from the junkyard because the OEM alternator uses far superior parts. If you read the thread then you noticed one member took his car to GM multiple times for alternator replacements and even the GM units failed repeatedly until he put a used OEM one on there.

So i'm glad that it worked for you, it didn't for us, so we had to find a different alternative.

 

You need to reread my post. I bought a NEW alternator not a rebuilt one. If I wanted a rebuilt one there is a very compitent company that rebuilds starters and alternators just down the road from where I live. Your friend is the exception to the rule. I cannot remember a vehicle that came in to have a alternator replaced to come back and have to get another one. I got a good deal on mine I used to work at a Chevy dealership. New ones can be purchased from a GM dealer or GM parts direct. There are other parts companies Summit, rockauto, to name a couple if you are on a more limited budget. I have 250,000+ miles on this car. I just came back from a long trip. (5,000 miles) I will never sell this car. The car is obviously a daily driver. The last thing that I want is to be broken down on the side of the road in North Dakota or some other place in the boondocks. I am very aware of junk yard treasures. I was brousing junk yards before you were born. We will just have to agree to disagree. If we were all the same it sure would be a dull world. Peace.

 

I don't need to reread anything I typed that you were "fortunate to get a quality rebuild/new alternator", that means rebuilt OR new, whichever one you have it applies.

1. A slash is often used to indicate "or":

•Dear Sir/Madam (Sir or Madam)
•Please press your browser's Refresh/Reload button. (Refresh or Reload)
•The speech will be given by President/Senator Clinton. (President Clinton or Senator Clinton)
•Mary will eat cake and/or fruit. (Mary will eat cake, or Mary will eat fruit, or Mary will eat cake and fruit.)



And why are you getting butt hurt making comments like "I was brousing junk yards before you were born" (wtf is brousing anyway? browsing??) Then you go on to say you are aware of junk yard treasures yet your initial post insinuated that junk yard parts are junk....

No point to get defensive dude, I made a point, I bought MULTIPLE NEW alternators and they failed, I bought multiple fresh rebuilds and they failed, many other people bought multiple alternators that failed, so we had to find a different option do you not get that????

And yes, I agree to disagree, you don't wanna be stuck on the road because you bought a used alternator, I DID get stuck on the road multiple times because I bought a new alternator...

You are simply not getting my point. I do get your point, you are concerned a used alternator could leave you stranded, so you bought new. Great, good, awesome, amazing.... but that does not pertain to the thread or help us, we bought new and got stranded. We bought used and continued driving down the road... get it??

 

The truck alternator is bigger around and a little deeper, if the F body alternator has to be modified to fit I don't see the truck alternator fitting.

Replace your exciter wire and go from there, the connectors go bad and they are cheap so it needs to be done regardless. It does however sound like the alternator is acting up more than the connector. A few of us have had problems with the connector and since you need to extend it you might as well replace it considering that they go bad as well.

Anything is possible, but if that connector is getting a bad connection it could cause erratic voltage

Google AC Delco PT1136. I got mine at NAPA.

 

I got your point and it sounds like you got mine. We have obviously had different experiences with alternators. As I said we will have different view points on the subject. You are the one who sounds as you put it all "butt hurt". You keep posting this endless rambling saying the same thing over and over. Very lame and has become boring to say the least. I will leave you with two words...the first is the last word of my previous post PEACE ... second word is DECAFE .... you obviously need to cut back.