Starion

iTrader: (5)

Just line the alternator up as if you were going to bolt it in. Once you see where the lines are close to the alternator bend the power steering lines away slighty to give some clearance. You won't hurt anything.

Just did this swap today and it is definitely worthwhile. A couple quick tips to help those doing the swap for the first time.

1) The nut on the truck alternator for the grounding wire is smaller than the stock alternator. If you got one from a junk yard it may not come with the nut. It is an M6-1.

2) To remove the exciter wire without damaging it, first loosen the front 2 alternator mounting bolts and the front mounting bracket bolt. Then completely remove the rear 13mm rear mounting bolt. Push the alternator and bracket forward towards the fans a few inches so that you can reach behind it. Reach behind the alternator and feel how the exciter wire clip attaches. You may even be able to look down from the top at this point to see the connection. Grab a small screwdriver and reach behind the alternator then gently pry the connector loose. It should pop right out once you have the screwdriver in the right position.

3) If you have a powerbond underdrive pulley, a 76" belt is the size you want.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

you will not have to bend it to much.....if you have to bend it that much you have other problems

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I bolted mine up and then bent the line. I only bent the line because it was lightly touching the alternator, I gave it a very slight push and it was no longer touching the alternator. You can bend the line quite a bit if you need to though, just go slow and easy. You may need to loosen the powersteering line and move it around a little. If it is that much in the way it may be installed in a way that it is causing you more trouble than the rest of us.

Jadedbird

iTrader: (27)

maybe this is what i need to do

brethtaka

When I removed my alternator I notice my bracket is one piece, including front support, rear support, and an idler pully. My bracket is completely different than the brackets in the pictures yet nobody has mentioned they didn't use their stock bracket. Is there something I am completely missing in this thread?

01 Camaro Z28

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Do it. Haven't had a problem since the day I installed it.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

post a pic

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Yeah take a pic.. I'm curious.

I responded to your PM about this. I don't know of a bracket that has the rear support as part of the main bracket, never heard of that or seen it. If so you will need to modify that bracket or go buy one from a scrap yard that doesn't have it.

Take a closer look at yours, you may want to just remove the bracket and have a look. I bet you'll find it's not actually like that, if it is then we are all going to learn something new!

But X2, take a pic

Sonin66

iTrader: (1)

so i finished installing my truck alt but it was alot easier to remove my swaybar and bend a few lines. also, to make my excite wire longer, just used some old speaker wire and spliced it. i noticed when first starting up my car after the few days it was sitting, the voltage needle jumped up past 13 and slowly went down a little close to 13 but a smudge over. it looked like it was going to stay there, but noticed that me driving faster helped put the needle a few clicks over 13. have a yellowtop and wondering if thats the prob... i will see how it goes over the next few days. also when getting my alt back in, it was a real squeeze to make it fit in the main bracket. i ended up taking the the main bracket out and forcing the sleeves out toward the fan to make the alt fit. use pb blaster or wd-40, and force those sleeves out!

Kylel

iTrader: (2)

I am putting an AD244 into a fox mustang (LQ4 swap car). It's carbureted, and I am building my own wiring harness. I don't know why, but I can't find a definitave answer as to how to wire one correctly from scratch. I have a 4-pin alternator. I need it to work with the battery cut-off switch too. I have a 4-pin cut-off switch (2 large pins for the battery cable, and 2 small pins for the alternator wire).
1. Which pin on the alternator should I be hooking switched 12v up to on the alternator?
2. Are there any resistors required? There is no charging light on the car.
3. Do I need to run the switched 12v wire through the cut-off switch, or is there another wire on the alternator I can run to the switch that will turn off the alternator while running?

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Look down in the connector, Terminal "L" is the one that gets the power signal sent to it to turn on the alternator. I don't know about resistors, if you are concerned with it put a light bulb in line with the wiring or build you a dash bulb. I would imagine it is fine with no resistors though.

You can see it in these images.. One shows the test light touching the pin, the other shows a single wire plug, the wire that is wired in that plug is the L terminal wire. So use it for reference or buy a one wire plug and take the guess work out.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=gm+al...:19,s:200,i:61

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=gm+al...r:80,s:0,i:327

gm94

Does anyone know if this alternator will fit 98-02 firebird with ls1 in it?


It says is for a 2002 chevy silverado 2500. I just can't find any info to see if it is 4 pin. Thanks.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Link isn't working but it sounds right. Should be the right one. I think the 2 pin started somewhere around 2005 or later, I would actually lean toward 2007 and on.

Footlead

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for all the info in this thread. Bought a 145 amp 2003 Tahoe alternator from LKQ for $40.00 PLUS TAX and installed it and this mod WORKS. Voltage meter never been higher and my windows actually go up and down quicker. It works and not hard to do. GM fail on that OEM underpowered alternator. I killed the stocker on a 1/4mile WOT pull spraying 2 stages, It seemed to handle 1/8th mile pulls but couldnt take the voltage surge for longer period. Lights are brighter and now everything else will operate better with full power. I had the stocker rebuilt about a year ago too. The rectifier and diodes cannot handle big load under WOT for long, Built too close together and overheat I guess. Great thread and thanks to the LS1tech community.

davidadavila

it cured my problems thank god very happy with the outcome, sad to say when i removed the bracket y saw up to see that it looks like i have a leak in my front cover, pan rear seal, etc 120 thousand miles..i have my third gen ls1 conversion down (because of a stupid spohn motor mount kicking my *** because it was designed like a 2 year old did it) so this is my only car right now, ......how is it that tiny as cable feeds the whole motor i hate that i was expecting something else thicker(thats what she said).i wished i could get more volts because of my 1000 rms system....
ALL AND ALL VERY EASY SWAP

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

^^^ dont forget the big 3 !!!

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I killed several alternators at the track too, hell mine were dying at the 1/8th mile. It seemed like the first time I would do a WOT pull they would die... Not the trusty ol $40 dollar used truck alternator though!!!!


Sweet!


You don't actually have a problem, it should be around 13, some of us see 14 but it should actually be 13. Increasing the RPM will increase the voltage so your needle going up is also normal. And a tiny hammer works perfect on those sleeves.




everyone

Z28LS1KID

Just did the swap yesterday and very happy with the results! I went with a new Tuff Stuff GM AD244 145 amp alternator (PT#8237) from Summit Racing. It was $135 w/ free shipping. The install was pretty straight forward and it mounted up perfectly after wiggling it up between the fan and sway bar. The voltage needle jumped right out of the red and stayed solid at 13.5. Overall I couldn't be happier, thanks for the help!

wess99ss

Did this swap yesterday too. My volt meter on the dash was pegged at 19 Volts! all kinds of brake warning lights on. After doing the swap ( I just asked for 145 amp 03 Tahoe one at my parts store) I took the bracket off the back and it bolted right up. I also replaced the pigtail just to be safe. $202 after everything was done stays right at 13.5 now. My last alternator only lasted 9 months hopefully this will be the fix. Thanks for the write up and all the tips this forum is awesome.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

more happy customers