The fix for my endless alternator failure's
01-28-2014, 08:28 PM
#721
Well, my first Escalade alternator has failed after 2 or 3 years. Without knowing the original mileage I can't say if I got my money's worth out of it or not.
I'm looking at eBay for other used ones since I don't have time to hit the local yards. Has anyone verified that up to '04 or even '05 will fit? Mine is from and '03 at the moment.
I'm looking at eBay for other used ones since I don't have time to hit the local yards. Has anyone verified that up to '04 or even '05 will fit? Mine is from and '03 at the moment.
02-18-2014, 10:23 AM
#723
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Is there any need to upgrade the wiring with the larger alternator?
Another thread suggested using the Big 3 wiring kit from Innovative Wiring to handle the additional "juice" from the new alternator but $95 seems like a big chunk of change for wire.
Will it hurt anything by simply replacing the stock alternator with a new AD244 145A model and using the original battery wires?
Another thread suggested using the Big 3 wiring kit from Innovative Wiring to handle the additional "juice" from the new alternator but $95 seems like a big chunk of change for wire.
Will it hurt anything by simply replacing the stock alternator with a new AD244 145A model and using the original battery wires?
03-18-2014, 03:48 PM
#724
Thanks for the truck alternator idea. I'm doing a nitrous LT1 to turbo LQ9 swap, so I've been hunting down all my accessories this week.
I found one at my local LKQ for $35, although they also have a $25 core charge. So I guess this one will cost me $60.
If for whatever reason that one doesn't work, the $135 Tuff Stuff 145amp truck alternator from Summit would likely be my next shot, as their customer service rep replied to my question on origin with "We build them here in Cleveland, Ohio."
I found one at my local LKQ for $35, although they also have a $25 core charge. So I guess this one will cost me $60.
If for whatever reason that one doesn't work, the $135 Tuff Stuff 145amp truck alternator from Summit would likely be my next shot, as their customer service rep replied to my question on origin with "We build them here in Cleveland, Ohio."
03-18-2014, 11:18 PM
#725
Stay away from Auto Zone and Advance for re-mans, they cant take the RPM specially w a tune and the shift points or rev limiter bumped up, went threw 3 before going to O'Reillys and never had an issue after that.
03-19-2014, 07:37 AM
#726
Sadly, I can't run the larger size alternator due to having the procharger setup. That little bit that the pulley moves is enough to cause interference.
I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?
Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?
Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
03-19-2014, 04:19 PM
#727
Sadly, I can't run the larger size alternator due to having the procharger setup. That little bit that the pulley moves is enough to cause interference.
I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?
Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?
Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
03-21-2014, 11:44 PM
#729
Sadly, I can't run the larger size alternator due to having the procharger setup. That little bit that the pulley moves is enough to cause interference.
I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?
Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?
Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
It'll work with a smaller bolt head -
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...lternator.html
But there are a few options for the factory alternator (cs130d). Here's a factory case 160 amp - http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LS1-CHEVY-FIREBIRD-Trans-AM-Camaro-ALTERNATOR-02-00-99-98-HIGH-AMP-Generator-/131136118260?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
05-10-2014, 02:27 PM
#730
TECH Enthusiast
05-10-2014, 04:56 PM
#731
TECH Enthusiast
06-09-2014, 08:31 PM
#735
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Does anyone know if the new kg3 style 145 amp alternators from advance or autozone handle the rpm's better? specifically advance as I was going to take advantage of one of their coupons they have out
08-02-2014, 04:59 PM
#737
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For those of you who choose to buy a NEW alternator from Oreilly's here is the part number: 391611. Just go to the counter and ask for that part number. This part number is for the new unit, not the remanufactured one.
Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.
My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.
For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.
Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.
My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.
For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.
Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
Last edited by MadFirehawk86; 08-02-2014 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Adding Link
08-03-2014, 05:51 PM
#738
For those of you who choose to buy a NEW alternator from Oreilly's here is the part number: 391611. Just go to the counter and ask for that part number. This part number is for the new unit, not the remanufactured one.
Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.
My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.
For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.
Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.
My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.
For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.
Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
08-07-2014, 03:15 PM
#740
Sorry for the late responses, been a while since I've been on.
On a side note, I just ordered a 145 AMP for my truck in my sig, it has a 105 that is starting to peter out. I added electric fans and front end wiring harness from a 2007 truck, and that combined with the stereo system just isn't cutting it. Hopefully 145 is enough!!
Sweet!! Glad it worked out dude.
I started this thread several years ago, and the Camaro I put that 145 amp alternator on is still only using the factory wiring. No problems what-so-ever.
I just ordered another junk yard one this morning for my truck, if that doesn't work out I'll order the Summit one since it's good ol USofA quality
Thanks for the info!
I had them fail from every parts store I could find, that's what led me to use the used OEM one in the first place. Glad to hear you had better luck than I did man.
The pulleys are usually the same.. see my last comment at the bottom of this post
Junkyard OEM isn't necessarily "better". It's just that every single one I got off the shelf fried almost immediately. So my last option was to try OEM but I didn't want to shell out $400 or so just to find out it would fry too, so I tried a junkyard one. And I ordered another junkyard one this morning. Yours works for you is all that matters.
For those that asked about the pulley and the belt.. I used the pulley that came on the alternator and the stock length belt with 0 issues. Compare your old pulley to the one on the new/used alternator and if they are different use the one off the alternator you are taking off of your car and put it on the alternator you are putting in.
On a side note, I just ordered a 145 AMP for my truck in my sig, it has a 105 that is starting to peter out. I added electric fans and front end wiring harness from a 2007 truck, and that combined with the stereo system just isn't cutting it. Hopefully 145 is enough!!
Is there any need to upgrade the wiring with the larger alternator?
Another thread suggested using the Big 3 wiring kit from Innovative Wiring to handle the additional "juice" from the new alternator but $95 seems like a big chunk of change for wire.
Will it hurt anything by simply replacing the stock alternator with a new AD244 145A model and using the original battery wires?
Another thread suggested using the Big 3 wiring kit from Innovative Wiring to handle the additional "juice" from the new alternator but $95 seems like a big chunk of change for wire.
Will it hurt anything by simply replacing the stock alternator with a new AD244 145A model and using the original battery wires?
Thanks for the truck alternator idea. I'm doing a nitrous LT1 to turbo LQ9 swap, so I've been hunting down all my accessories this week.
I found one at my local LKQ for $35, although they also have a $25 core charge. So I guess this one will cost me $60.
If for whatever reason that one doesn't work, the $135 Tuff Stuff 145amp truck alternator from Summit would likely be my next shot, as their customer service rep replied to my question on origin with "We build them here in Cleveland, Ohio."
I found one at my local LKQ for $35, although they also have a $25 core charge. So I guess this one will cost me $60.
If for whatever reason that one doesn't work, the $135 Tuff Stuff 145amp truck alternator from Summit would likely be my next shot, as their customer service rep replied to my question on origin with "We build them here in Cleveland, Ohio."
Thanks for the info!
The pulleys are usually the same.. see my last comment at the bottom of this post
For those of you who choose to buy a NEW alternator from Oreilly's here is the part number: 391611. Just go to the counter and ask for that part number. This part number is for the new unit, not the remanufactured one.
Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.
My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.
For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.
Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.
My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.
For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.
Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
For those that asked about the pulley and the belt.. I used the pulley that came on the alternator and the stock length belt with 0 issues. Compare your old pulley to the one on the new/used alternator and if they are different use the one off the alternator you are taking off of your car and put it on the alternator you are putting in.