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The fix for my endless alternator failure's

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Old 09-17-2014, 09:10 AM
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The used AD244 I installed is failing, I would prefer to buy a new alt.

How doe’s this look? I assume since it’s a AD244 it’s the correct alt.?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8237/overview/

I looked at Rock auto this website is a tad confussing to me.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...161&cc=1423831
did’nt see words like AD244 or KG3.

This looks good.
Amazon.com: NEW HIGH AMP 250A ALTERNATOR 04 05 CADILLAC ESCALADE 5.3 6.0 10464443 10480390: Automotive Amazon.com: NEW HIGH AMP 250A ALTERNATOR 04 05 CADILLAC ESCALADE 5.3 6.0 10464443 10480390: Automotive


Can someone suggest a place to get a new AD244 alt.
Old 09-17-2014, 09:18 AM
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im happy with my mechman 150 amp sold by texas speed for $200. has some type of internal cooling and supposedly saves 1 rwhp. if you have an under drive pulley consider an over drive alt pulley $20. good 2 go!
Old 09-17-2014, 11:49 PM
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can the AD244 KG3 atl. come off a 2011 escalade or must it come off a 2004?

these folks selling new high amp. atls. is a relargular 105 or 145 amp converted to 250amp. by just installing a overdrive pulley?
Old 10-01-2014, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
The used AD244 I installed is failing, I would prefer to buy a new alt.

How doe’s this look? I assume since it’s a AD244 it’s the correct alt.?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-8237/overview/

Best I can tell that one is correct

I looked at Rock auto this website is a tad confussing to me.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...161&cc=1423831
did’nt see words like AD244 or KG3.

This one is not correct, it is a newer model and will have the 2 wire plug instead of the 4 wire plug that you need

This looks good.
Amazon.com: NEW HIGH AMP 250A ALTERNATOR 04 05 CADILLAC ESCALADE 5.3 6.0 10464443 10480390: Automotive

This one is correct

Can someone suggest a place to get a new AD244 alt.
Dude you can get one at Oreilly or Autozone. Just order one for a 2003 Silverado and they will ask if you have a 105 or a 145 amp, tell them 145.

Originally Posted by DANOZ28
im happy with my mechman 150 amp sold by texas speed for $200. has some type of internal cooling and supposedly saves 1 rwhp. if you have an under drive pulley consider an over drive alt pulley $20. good 2 go!
That's a good plan too. But I doubt it is anything special vs a typical off the shelf alternator, unless it has a underdrive pulley on it, then it may save that 1rwhp

Originally Posted by badmfkr
can the AD244 KG3 atl. come off a 2011 escalade or must it come off a 2004?


these folks selling new high amp. atls. is a relargular 105 or 145 amp converted to 250amp. by just installing a overdrive pulley?
No it absolutely cannot come off a truck that new, it will have the wrong plug

No they are not just swapping the pulley to make it a higher output.



If you want a new one, fairly cheap, just run down to autozone and grab a 145 amp from a 99-04 truck
Old 02-24-2015, 12:05 AM
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I have a 2000 WS6 and have had a number of electrical issues along with the dimming of the lights. My head lights were super dim( just purchased 6 months ago) and had to clean the plugs going to the lights and got them bright again but still had some flickering. The strange thing about my situation is that my voltage reads high not low. When I first crank it up on a cold day the voltage reads like 17 volts. Then tends to settle around 15 volts but I still get flickering but it tends to do better when warmed up...not like anything I've been reading here in the thread. I took out the alternator(which wasn't as easy as I thought it would be...like trying to shove an octagon piece through a round hole..lol). I broke off the connector (like I knew I would) so I pre ordered one and should be here in a day or two. I'm just not sure which alternator to buy? They have some 200 amps in the cs130d form factor for 150 or a AD244 145 amp for under 100. Any reason to do the "Big 3" with the 145 amp? I have a subwooofer (Mild) and two amps. On heavy bass songs the headlights would dim a little bit more than usual. I thought I may just put in a capacitor to help with that. I don't mind working on my cars but like driving them more. Any ideas about why I'd have higher than normal voltage other than the regulator going out?
Old 02-24-2015, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Duneaholic
I have a 2000 WS6 and have had a number of electrical issues along with the dimming of the lights. My head lights were super dim( just purchased 6 months ago) and had to clean the plugs going to the lights and got them bright again but still had some flickering. The strange thing about my situation is that my voltage reads high not low. When I first crank it up on a cold day the voltage reads like 17 volts. Then tends to settle around 15 volts but I still get flickering but it tends to do better when warmed up...not like anything I've been reading here in the thread. I took out the alternator(which wasn't as easy as I thought it would be...like trying to shove an octagon piece through a round hole..lol). I broke off the connector (like I knew I would) so I pre ordered one and should be here in a day or two. I'm just not sure which alternator to buy? They have some 200 amps in the cs130d form factor for 150 or a AD244 145 amp for under 100. Any reason to do the "Big 3" with the 145 amp? I have a subwooofer (Mild) and two amps. On heavy bass songs the headlights would dim a little bit more than usual. I thought I may just put in a capacitor to help with that. I don't mind working on my cars but like driving them more. Any ideas about why I'd have higher than normal voltage other than the regulator going out?

Bought power masters 150 amp. 2 years no issues. Old alt didn't like being spun too high crapped out. Get under drive pulley too. Reduce wear and tear.

Dale
Old 03-07-2015, 12:49 PM
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So I decided to go with the truck alternator. So do you guys put in the alternator mounted to the bracket or mount the bracket first. Either way it's been a bitch to get in...I haven't been able to squeeze that sucker in yet. Between the trans lines, power steering pump lines , the radiator fan and the sway bar there is plenty little room. What have you guys done to get it in?

Thanks for any help. Ready to get this finished!
Old 03-22-2015, 01:36 PM
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Great thread!
Just put in a 145 alt from a 2003 Escalade into my ls1 mustang. Runs like a charm.
Old 04-08-2015, 10:10 AM
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Just did this mod on my '98 Z28. Got the alternator from LKQ for $50. Just give them the code "KG3" like the original poster said. Works great!



Originally Posted by Duneaholic
So I decided to go with the truck alternator. So do you guys put in the alternator mounted to the bracket or mount the bracket first. Either way it's been a bitch to get in...I haven't been able to squeeze that sucker in yet. Between the trans lines, power steering pump lines , the radiator fan and the sway bar there is plenty little room. What have you guys done to get it in?

Thanks for any help. Ready to get this finished!
I put the bracket in place first (mounted to the engine), then put the alternator in the bracket after that. Trying to squeeze the alternator and bracket together through that space is impossible.
Old 04-08-2015, 08:04 PM
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I've got a brand new AC Delco alternator for an '03 escalade sitting in my room. Just haven't had a chance to pop it in there. Stoopid work.
Old 05-19-2015, 11:29 AM
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I have a couple of questions, I just replaced my alt with a 145-amp one. My connector had 4 wires going to it, but I see some people saying they just have one. Were they different in different years? Mine is an '02 WS6. I was also told all (4) wires had to be put back into the connector for it to charge correctly. Can someone shed some light on this? I only put the red wire in, and I was driving and lost all power, battery was not charging, barely made it back to the house....I just need some concrete answer, I got a new connector and don't know what to do, just 1 wire or all 4 wires......If it is all 4, does someone know the color order they go back in??
Old 06-06-2015, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by YellowTA1
I have a couple of questions, I just replaced my alt with a 145-amp one. My connector had 4 wires going to it, but I see some people saying they just have one. Were they different in different years? Mine is an '02 WS6. I was also told all (4) wires had to be put back into the connector for it to charge correctly. Can someone shed some light on this? I only put the red wire in, and I was driving and lost all power, battery was not charging, barely made it back to the house....I just need some concrete answer, I got a new connector and don't know what to do, just 1 wire or all 4 wires......If it is all 4, does someone know the color order they go back in??
The original connector only had 1 wire, some of the replacement connectors have 4 wires but NO you DO NOT have to have all 4 wires in it for it to charge, just the 1.

The proper terminal on the alternator is terminal L

Looking at the connector from the clip side you only need the wire that is second hole from the left, you can order this alternator pigtail with just one wire in it already in the proper location. I searched 2000 Camaro pigtail on google and this came up immediately on ebay.



Last edited by 00pooterSS; 06-06-2015 at 11:49 PM.
Old 06-08-2015, 08:25 AM
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Thank you so much for this post! My alternator crapped out last week on my 2001 ss and I stumbled on this post. My neighbor and I replaced my alternator with a truck alt from a 2003 silverado (145 amp kg3, got it from a salvage yard), (that damn rear bolt on the bracket is a bitch!!!). It's running great, voltage is solid as a rock (13.5-14). My stock alt was covered in old ps fluid from a pump leak I had which probably led to its demise but I figure with amp and sub, I should probably get a stronger alt anyways.

I only have one minor issue. Since I replaced the alt, I'm hearing a low whistling noise coming from the alt at idle. I don't notice it with my stereo on, so it's not very loud. It also seems to basically go away once I'm moving. Any idea what could be causing this? Is this normal for gm truck alts? Everything in the car is running great and voltage is stable even when everything is on (ac, stereo, lights, etc.) it's just the low whistle sound. I hope it isn't a cause for concern.

Edit: I see it mentioned that there is only 1 wire (red) that connects to the alt. There were 4 wires coming from my plug, and it fit just fine into the 4 pin connector. Could these extra wires be putting more of a load on the alternator? Sorry for all the questions, just a little new to car electrical systems...haha

Last edited by Dominos9189; 06-08-2015 at 08:51 AM.
Old 06-11-2015, 11:13 AM
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why is this not a sticky yet????
Old 06-19-2015, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominos9189
Thank you so much for this post! My alternator crapped out last week on my 2001 ss and I stumbled on this post. My neighbor and I replaced my alternator with a truck alt from a 2003 silverado (145 amp kg3, got it from a salvage yard), (that damn rear bolt on the bracket is a bitch!!!). It's running great, voltage is solid as a rock (13.5-14). My stock alt was covered in old ps fluid from a pump leak I had which probably led to its demise but I figure with amp and sub, I should probably get a stronger alt anyways.

I only have one minor issue. Since I replaced the alt, I'm hearing a low whistling noise coming from the alt at idle. I don't notice it with my stereo on, so it's not very loud. It also seems to basically go away once I'm moving. Any idea what could be causing this? Is this normal for gm truck alts? Everything in the car is running great and voltage is stable even when everything is on (ac, stereo, lights, etc.) it's just the low whistle sound. I hope it isn't a cause for concern.

Edit: I see it mentioned that there is only 1 wire (red) that connects to the alt. There were 4 wires coming from my plug, and it fit just fine into the 4 pin connector. Could these extra wires be putting more of a load on the alternator? Sorry for all the questions, just a little new to car electrical systems...haha

I actually had the same problem with the first truck alternator I put in. It worked great , but was very noisy. Fortunately LKQ gives a one year warranty.. so I took it back and got a replacement which was quiet as can be. There's nothing you can do if an alternator is noisy, other than replace it. (from what I've read)
Old 06-19-2015, 06:42 PM
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I went to a yard last week and got a KG3 Alt for $50 off an 06 silverado..


didnt pay no attention to it until I got home and realized it was the Bosch 2 plug connector on it

now I have a Bosch 2 plug connector to 4 plug Delco harness I got off Ebay... hopefully it will work..


If not I have another Alt in the basement thats a 160 amp 4 pin but part of the connector on the alt is broke off and the positive stud is loose on it..
Old 06-20-2015, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Majestic9C1
I went to a yard last week and got a KG3 Alt for $50 off an 06 silverado..


didnt pay no attention to it until I got home and realized it was the Bosch 2 plug connector on it

now I have a Bosch 2 plug connector to 4 plug Delco harness I got off Ebay... hopefully it will work..


If not I have another Alt in the basement thats a 160 amp 4 pin but part of the connector on the alt is broke off and the positive stud is loose on it..
just buy a new regulator??

http://aspwholesale.com/index.php?_a...roduct_id=1492
Old 06-20-2015, 11:45 AM
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I bought a 160 amp DR44 alternator with the two wire regulator. I just installed a 4 pin regulator and it has been working perfectly. Seems to be a simple solution.
Old 06-20-2015, 10:20 PM
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Well I put the Bosch Alt with the 2 wire regulator on this afternoon.. wired in the bosch plug and it works like a charm....

trying to get the old Alternator out with the bracket on was a bitch.. had to move the rad fans up to get clearance away from the sway bar..


so much caked on oily dirty crusty gunk all over the front cover and bracket... it was gross lol
Old 06-28-2015, 10:12 PM
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Does this mean the two wire kg3 alternators will work too then if we install a two wire harness connector?


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