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The fix for my endless alternator failure's

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Old Jan 28, 2014 | 08:28 PM
  #721  
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Originally Posted by hardbodeez
Are you sure the truck alternators can be run without a resistor? Just don't want them to fry.
All of them can, the bulb that the power is ran through on a stock system does not resist/lower the voltage sent to the wire. I checked the power output on the connector when I had my camaro still and it was battery voltage, so yes you can send battery voltage to it.

Originally Posted by sjsingle1
i thought this was stickeed? i look at the top and its not there.......
I thought it was too. I didn't go look for it though

Originally Posted by HibachiZ28
Well, my first Escalade alternator has failed after 2 or 3 years. Without knowing the original mileage I can't say if I got my money's worth out of it or not.

I'm looking at eBay for other used ones since I don't have time to hit the local yards. Has anyone verified that up to '04 or even '05 will fit? Mine is from and '03 at the moment.
Looks like up to 07 is good. See attachment (you need a KG3, it shows a KG3 to be available on 07 classics)
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Old Feb 16, 2014 | 02:05 AM
  #722  
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Just completed this and it resolved my flickering problems.
Parts list was $46 for the alternator and $30 for the connector.
Thanks OP.
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Old Feb 18, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #723  
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Is there any need to upgrade the wiring with the larger alternator?

Another thread suggested using the Big 3 wiring kit from Innovative Wiring to handle the additional "juice" from the new alternator but $95 seems like a big chunk of change for wire.

Will it hurt anything by simply replacing the stock alternator with a new AD244 145A model and using the original battery wires?
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #724  
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Thanks for the truck alternator idea. I'm doing a nitrous LT1 to turbo LQ9 swap, so I've been hunting down all my accessories this week.

I found one at my local LKQ for $35, although they also have a $25 core charge. So I guess this one will cost me $60.

If for whatever reason that one doesn't work, the $135 Tuff Stuff 145amp truck alternator from Summit would likely be my next shot, as their customer service rep replied to my question on origin with "We build them here in Cleveland, Ohio."
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 11:18 PM
  #725  
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Stay away from Auto Zone and Advance for re-mans, they cant take the RPM specially w a tune and the shift points or rev limiter bumped up, went threw 3 before going to O'Reillys and never had an issue after that.
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 07:37 AM
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Sadly, I can't run the larger size alternator due to having the procharger setup. That little bit that the pulley moves is enough to cause interference.

I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?

Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
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Old Mar 19, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #727  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Sadly, I can't run the larger size alternator due to having the procharger setup. That little bit that the pulley moves is enough to cause interference.

I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?

Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.
What he said, mine just went out.
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 07:01 PM
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I have a procharger setup and need an alternator. So the truck alternator will interfere huh???
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Old Mar 21, 2014 | 11:44 PM
  #729  
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Originally Posted by The Alchemist
Sadly, I can't run the larger size alternator due to having the procharger setup. That little bit that the pulley moves is enough to cause interference.

I thought there was an upgraded alternator that was in the same size case?

Someone help me out here and find a better alternator that is the same size case.

It'll work with a smaller bolt head -
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...lternator.html

But there are a few options for the factory alternator (cs130d). Here's a factory case 160 amp - http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LS1-CHEVY-FIREBIRD-Trans-AM-Camaro-ALTERNATOR-02-00-99-98-HIGH-AMP-Generator-/131136118260?_trksid=p2054897.l4276
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Old May 10, 2014 | 02:27 PM
  #730  
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Is this the right one?

http://m.autozone.com/autozone-mobil...3xme?id=973439
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Old May 10, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #731  
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Or this one?

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...rd=alternator+
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Old May 10, 2014 | 06:57 PM
  #732  
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Does it use the stock belt as well?
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Old May 20, 2014 | 01:25 AM
  #733  
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i cant tell from the links if that is the right alt.....i used a slightly longer belt for mine

you have to check the pulley on remans....it may look right but be slightly off from the stocker....so save the stock pulley
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Old Jun 2, 2014 | 08:18 PM
  #734  
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Originally Posted by sjsingle1
i cant tell from the links if that is the right alt.....i used a slightly longer belt for mine

you have to check the pulley on remans....it may look right but be slightly off from the stocker....so save the stock pulley
so should i have the stock pulley put on the truck 145 amp one?
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Old Jun 9, 2014 | 08:31 PM
  #735  
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Originally Posted by 1999Firehawkls7
Stay away from Auto Zone and Advance for re-mans, they cant take the RPM specially w a tune and the shift points or rev limiter bumped up, went threw 3 before going to O'Reillys and never had an issue after that.
Does anyone know if the new kg3 style 145 amp alternators from advance or autozone handle the rpm's better? specifically advance as I was going to take advantage of one of their coupons they have out
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Old Jul 20, 2014 | 04:18 AM
  #736  
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Need to do this to my car since I have some pulsing light issues.
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Old Aug 2, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #737  
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For those of you who choose to buy a NEW alternator from Oreilly's here is the part number: 391611. Just go to the counter and ask for that part number. This part number is for the new unit, not the remanufactured one.

Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.

My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.

For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.

Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator

Last edited by MadFirehawk86; Aug 2, 2014 at 05:04 PM. Reason: Adding Link
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Old Aug 3, 2014 | 05:51 PM
  #738  
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Originally Posted by MadFirehawk86
For those of you who choose to buy a NEW alternator from Oreilly's here is the part number: 391611. Just go to the counter and ask for that part number. This part number is for the new unit, not the remanufactured one.

Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.

My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.

For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.

Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
cool where did you get that link?
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Old Aug 4, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #739  
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Thats from oreilly's website. Lol thought it was obvious. I searched for 03 tahoe alternator.
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Old Aug 7, 2014 | 03:15 PM
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Sorry for the late responses, been a while since I've been on.

On a side note, I just ordered a 145 AMP for my truck in my sig, it has a 105 that is starting to peter out. I added electric fans and front end wiring harness from a 2007 truck, and that combined with the stereo system just isn't cutting it. Hopefully 145 is enough!!


Originally Posted by FBDYLVR
Just completed this and it resolved my flickering problems.
Parts list was $46 for the alternator and $30 for the connector.
Thanks OP.
Sweet!! Glad it worked out dude.

Originally Posted by Protius
Is there any need to upgrade the wiring with the larger alternator?

Another thread suggested using the Big 3 wiring kit from Innovative Wiring to handle the additional "juice" from the new alternator but $95 seems like a big chunk of change for wire.

Will it hurt anything by simply replacing the stock alternator with a new AD244 145A model and using the original battery wires?
I started this thread several years ago, and the Camaro I put that 145 amp alternator on is still only using the factory wiring. No problems what-so-ever.

Originally Posted by BaD AZz Z28
Thanks for the truck alternator idea. I'm doing a nitrous LT1 to turbo LQ9 swap, so I've been hunting down all my accessories this week.

I found one at my local LKQ for $35, although they also have a $25 core charge. So I guess this one will cost me $60.

If for whatever reason that one doesn't work, the $135 Tuff Stuff 145amp truck alternator from Summit would likely be my next shot, as their customer service rep replied to my question on origin with "We build them here in Cleveland, Ohio."
I just ordered another junk yard one this morning for my truck, if that doesn't work out I'll order the Summit one since it's good ol USofA quality

Thanks for the info!

Originally Posted by 1999Firehawkls7
Stay away from Auto Zone and Advance for re-mans, they cant take the RPM specially w a tune and the shift points or rev limiter bumped up, went threw 3 before going to O'Reillys and never had an issue after that.
I had them fail from every parts store I could find, that's what led me to use the used OEM one in the first place. Glad to hear you had better luck than I did man.

Originally Posted by Omega Doom
so should i have the stock pulley put on the truck 145 amp one?
The pulleys are usually the same.. see my last comment at the bottom of this post

Originally Posted by MadFirehawk86
For those of you who choose to buy a NEW alternator from Oreilly's here is the part number: 391611. Just go to the counter and ask for that part number. This part number is for the new unit, not the remanufactured one.

Just installed it and yes you may have to bend the power steering lines just a lil bit...wasnt much at all. I did not have to mess with the sway bar in the slightest. I also used the pulley that came with the alternator...I did not have to swap pulleys.

My voltage has never been better. My original alternator with the ac on and in drive with the fans running full blast would have my voltage down near 8 volts. Now, its a rock solid 13 volts.

For those of you who are going to say "You should have gotten one from a junkyard because its oem and its better blah blah blah" I am in Hawaii and that simply wasnt an option for me so I bought a brand new unit from Oreilly's.

Edit: Here is the link for the alternator: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...ord=alternator
Junkyard OEM isn't necessarily "better". It's just that every single one I got off the shelf fried almost immediately. So my last option was to try OEM but I didn't want to shell out $400 or so just to find out it would fry too, so I tried a junkyard one. And I ordered another junkyard one this morning. Yours works for you is all that matters.


For those that asked about the pulley and the belt.. I used the pulley that came on the alternator and the stock length belt with 0 issues. Compare your old pulley to the one on the new/used alternator and if they are different use the one off the alternator you are taking off of your car and put it on the alternator you are putting in.



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