The fix for my endless alternator failure's
02-21-2019, 05:30 PM
#1041
I know for sure a 2014 Chevrolet Express 2500 w/ 6.0 motor came with the 4 pin 145a DR44 alternator as an option. You can even look that year and model up on Rockauto or GMPartsGiant and see the 145a alternators listed as 4 pin or 4 wire with pictures of DR44 cases with 4 pin plug regulators on the back.
Ive also noticed the pins on most 4 pin regulators sold for the DR44 and DR44G, such as in rebuild kits, are listed as P-L-S-F which I believe is the same on the CS and AD series 4 pin alternators.
I haven’t yet laid eyes on one still installed to see how many wires they use on the connector.
02-21-2019, 05:33 PM
#1042
It's a 2 wire control with a amperage sensor around the battery cable.
I've noticed the ones with the amp sensor have 2 wire control.
I have a feeling if you run 12 volts to the L it will still excite and operate the alternator
I also have a feeling thats gonna be a 2 wire alt. But it doesn't tell me in the diagram.
I've noticed the ones with the amp sensor have 2 wire control.
I have a feeling if you run 12 volts to the L it will still excite and operate the alternator
I also have a feeling thats gonna be a 2 wire alt. But it doesn't tell me in the diagram.
02-22-2019, 09:14 AM
#1043
It's a 2 wire control with a amperage sensor around the battery cable.
I've noticed the ones with the amp sensor have 2 wire control.
I have a feeling if you run 12 volts to the L it will still excite and operate the alternator
I also have a feeling thats gonna be a 2 wire alt. But it doesn't tell me in the diagram.
I've noticed the ones with the amp sensor have 2 wire control.
I have a feeling if you run 12 volts to the L it will still excite and operate the alternator
I also have a feeling thats gonna be a 2 wire alt. But it doesn't tell me in the diagram.
02-22-2019, 10:29 AM
#1044
After some more digging I found this little snippet from another forum:
Found at: https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?16538-Controlling-DR44G-Alternator-With-Holley-Dominator&p=67039#post67039
So it seems that for Fbody use, one may need to connect the Sensing wire to a distribution block or similar as well for full charging, which is simple enough.
I found schematic for my 04 Sierra and when installed with a AD244 they used pins P L and I/F or A B and C if labeled that way which according to the schematic is P(A) sends an engine on signal to the brake system, L(B) goes to the PCM for charge indicator control and subsequently the light in the dash, and I/F(C) goes to the PCM for Field Duty Cycle Signal. Does that mesh with the 2014 Express 4 pin alt diagram? I guess worse case scenario I can hook up the sensing terminal to the battery distribution post that's mounted near the driver side of the engine and alternator.
I bought a used DR44G for my LS transplant into a Mustang. After I bought it, I was told its output was controlled by an input from the ECU. After MUCH research, I determined there was more to it.
A DR44G has either a two wire or four wire voltage regulator. The terminals on the four wire regulator are labeled PLFS or ABCD. The L or B terminal has to have switched 12V through a lamp, or a 470 Ohm resistor to excite the alternator to make it start charging. The S or D terminal needs a wire connected to a 12V source to "sense" voltage drop. The DR44G with four wire regulator will output 13.8 volts all day long, with the switched 12V to the "L" terminal only. When you connect 12 volts to the voltage sensing "S" terminal, output floats between 14 to 14.5 volts depending on demand. I wired my "S" terminal directly to the 1/0 battery cable, where it is connected to the firewall lug.
The output of the model with a two wire regulator is controlled by he ECU but will still output 13.8 volts without the ECU input. It has to have the switched 12 volt input on one of the regulator terminals to excite.
There is a lot of information in the link below although they do not refer to the DR44G (the theory is the same).
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...voltagesensing
I got a lot of information from LS1Tech & YellowBullet. Here's a link to LS1Tech with good info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ing-again.html
A DR44G has either a two wire or four wire voltage regulator. The terminals on the four wire regulator are labeled PLFS or ABCD. The L or B terminal has to have switched 12V through a lamp, or a 470 Ohm resistor to excite the alternator to make it start charging. The S or D terminal needs a wire connected to a 12V source to "sense" voltage drop. The DR44G with four wire regulator will output 13.8 volts all day long, with the switched 12V to the "L" terminal only. When you connect 12 volts to the voltage sensing "S" terminal, output floats between 14 to 14.5 volts depending on demand. I wired my "S" terminal directly to the 1/0 battery cable, where it is connected to the firewall lug.
The output of the model with a two wire regulator is controlled by he ECU but will still output 13.8 volts without the ECU input. It has to have the switched 12 volt input on one of the regulator terminals to excite.
There is a lot of information in the link below although they do not refer to the DR44G (the theory is the same).
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...voltagesensing
I got a lot of information from LS1Tech & YellowBullet. Here's a link to LS1Tech with good info: https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...ing-again.html
So it seems that for Fbody use, one may need to connect the Sensing wire to a distribution block or similar as well for full charging, which is simple enough.
I found schematic for my 04 Sierra and when installed with a AD244 they used pins P L and I/F or A B and C if labeled that way which according to the schematic is P(A) sends an engine on signal to the brake system, L(B) goes to the PCM for charge indicator control and subsequently the light in the dash, and I/F(C) goes to the PCM for Field Duty Cycle Signal. Does that mesh with the 2014 Express 4 pin alt diagram? I guess worse case scenario I can hook up the sensing terminal to the battery distribution post that's mounted near the driver side of the engine and alternator.
02-22-2019, 11:15 AM
#1045
After some more digging I found this little snippet from another forum:
Found at: https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?16538-Controlling-DR44G-Alternator-With-Holley-Dominator&p=67039#post67039
So it seems that for Fbody use, one may need to connect the Sensing wire to a distribution block or similar as well for full charging, which is simple enough.
I found schematic for my 04 Sierra and when installed with a AD244 they used pins P L and I/F or A B and C if labeled that way which according to the schematic is P(A) sends an engine on signal to the brake system, L(B) goes to the PCM for charge indicator control and subsequently the light in the dash, and I/F(C) goes to the PCM for Field Duty Cycle Signal. Does that mesh with the 2014 Express 4 pin alt diagram? I guess worse case scenario I can hook up the sensing terminal to the battery distribution post that's mounted near the driver side of the engine and alternator.
Found at: https://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?16538-Controlling-DR44G-Alternator-With-Holley-Dominator&p=67039#post67039
So it seems that for Fbody use, one may need to connect the Sensing wire to a distribution block or similar as well for full charging, which is simple enough.
I found schematic for my 04 Sierra and when installed with a AD244 they used pins P L and I/F or A B and C if labeled that way which according to the schematic is P(A) sends an engine on signal to the brake system, L(B) goes to the PCM for charge indicator control and subsequently the light in the dash, and I/F(C) goes to the PCM for Field Duty Cycle Signal. Does that mesh with the 2014 Express 4 pin alt diagram? I guess worse case scenario I can hook up the sensing terminal to the battery distribution post that's mounted near the driver side of the engine and alternator.
That's excellent info, thanks.
Unfortunately I'm using Alldata and the OEM diagram, is like all other OEM diagrams, there's literally the least info possible. It only shows the wires and their colors, and it was 2 wires in the diagram. Alldata wont let me save or share the diagrams.
I just went to the "non OEM interactive color" diagrams and it still shows two wires. One is the "generator turn on signal" (orange wire 1/B) and "generator field duty cycle signal" (gray 2/C)
It doesn't tell me, but I'm getting the feeling this is a 2 wire. Because as you stated, 4 pin alts use the L terminal alone or the L terminal and the S. They labeled the pins 1 & 2 which follows that logic, but they also labeled them B & C, which does not.
I also had an 04 Sierra (5.3 SLT), it was a 1 wire control, 4 pin alt, from the factory. I swapped the 105 to a 145 4 pin on it too.
03-24-2019, 10:37 PM
#1049
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I completed the install and my issues I was having are gone.
As far as the power steering lines are concerned, the one with rubber covering it that wraps over the alternator... is this ok if it's touching the outside of the alternator? I wasn't sure how hot that thing gets or if it'll cause any damage.
As far as the power steering lines are concerned, the one with rubber covering it that wraps over the alternator... is this ok if it's touching the outside of the alternator? I wasn't sure how hot that thing gets or if it'll cause any damage.
03-25-2019, 11:14 AM
#1051
Just bend it away slightly. It bends easy and all it takes is a little nudge to get it off the alternator. That being said I didn't see any good reason to let it rub. I bent mine a hair.
Both the alternator and the PS line do get hot to answer your question, but my biggest concern would be the constant rubbing together from vibration over time causing a hole to be rubbed in the line. So just move it off the alt a hair and you're good to go.
Both the alternator and the PS line do get hot to answer your question, but my biggest concern would be the constant rubbing together from vibration over time causing a hole to be rubbed in the line. So just move it off the alt a hair and you're good to go.
03-25-2019, 01:10 PM
#1052
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Just bend it away slightly. It bends easy and all it takes is a little nudge to get it off the alternator. That being said I didn't see any good reason to let it rub. I bent mine a hair.
Both the alternator and the PS line do get hot to answer your question, but my biggest concern would be the constant rubbing together from vibration over time causing a hole to be rubbed in the line. So just move it off the alt a hair and you're good to go.
Both the alternator and the PS line do get hot to answer your question, but my biggest concern would be the constant rubbing together from vibration over time causing a hole to be rubbed in the line. So just move it off the alt a hair and you're good to go.
07-02-2019, 10:01 PM
#1054
That's excellent info, thanks.
Unfortunately I'm using Alldata and the OEM diagram, is like all other OEM diagrams, there's literally the least info possible. It only shows the wires and their colors, and it was 2 wires in the diagram. Alldata wont let me save or share the diagrams.
I just went to the "non OEM interactive color" diagrams and it still shows two wires. One is the "generator turn on signal" (orange wire 1/B) and "generator field duty cycle signal" (gray 2/C)
It doesn't tell me, but I'm getting the feeling this is a 2 wire. Because as you stated, 4 pin alts use the L terminal alone or the L terminal and the S. They labeled the pins 1 & 2 which follows that logic, but they also labeled them B & C, which does not.
I also had an 04 Sierra (5.3 SLT), it was a 1 wire control, 4 pin alt, from the factory. I swapped the 105 to a 145 4 pin on it too.
Unfortunately I'm using Alldata and the OEM diagram, is like all other OEM diagrams, there's literally the least info possible. It only shows the wires and their colors, and it was 2 wires in the diagram. Alldata wont let me save or share the diagrams.
I just went to the "non OEM interactive color" diagrams and it still shows two wires. One is the "generator turn on signal" (orange wire 1/B) and "generator field duty cycle signal" (gray 2/C)
It doesn't tell me, but I'm getting the feeling this is a 2 wire. Because as you stated, 4 pin alts use the L terminal alone or the L terminal and the S. They labeled the pins 1 & 2 which follows that logic, but they also labeled them B & C, which does not.
I also had an 04 Sierra (5.3 SLT), it was a 1 wire control, 4 pin alt, from the factory. I swapped the 105 to a 145 4 pin on it too.
I know this info doesn’t help the fbody crowd but it may be handy for the 5.3 crowd.
07-03-2019, 10:42 AM
#1055
Just to update, the 4 pin 145a DR44G from the newer Express van worked perfectly on my 04 5.3l Sierra SLE. My truck has a 4 pin plug with three wires in it. Charges at 14.2-14.5v. When the efans I swapped in kick on the voltage drops for a split second and climbs back up to 14v+. This was tested at the alt with a voltmeter.
I know this info doesn’t help the fbody crowd but it may be handy for the 5.3 crowd.
I know this info doesn’t help the fbody crowd but it may be handy for the 5.3 crowd.
I put a 145 on my 2004 5.3 truck and it worked out great too. I also did the electric fan conversion on mine all stuff from 2007 and 2010 trucks (rad, fans, and OE wiring harness). Was one of the best mods I've ever done.
Did you happen to reuse the belt that was on the truck with the smaller 105 amp alternator? I did, and the guys over on performance trucks all argue with me and say it can't be done.
07-03-2019, 10:47 AM
#1056
TECH Senior Member
Mods oughta make this the "Alternator Sticky" thread... lots of good info!
07-03-2019, 11:50 AM
#1057
I put a 145 on my 2004 5.3 truck and it worked out great too. I also did the electric fan conversion on mine all stuff from 2007 and 2010 trucks (rad, fans, and OE wiring harness). Was one of the best mods I've ever done.
Did you happen to reuse the belt that was on the truck with the smaller 105 amp alternator? I did, and the guys over on performance trucks all argue with me and say it can't be done.
Did you happen to reuse the belt that was on the truck with the smaller 105 amp alternator? I did, and the guys over on performance trucks all argue with me and say it can't be done.
I’m doing the same with the GMT900 parts. OEM rad, fans, harness, and alt. Putting in hydroboost and the larger front brakes next. Already running a hydroboost ps pump. They didn’t make a MBM/Arrival Blue truck in the later years so I’m stuck upgrading a 2004 since I had to have that color.
07-03-2019, 12:11 PM
#1058
I used a longer belt but I didn’t have to. The old belt fit but I had already purchased the new one so I went ahead and used it. On my TA I used the old belt. It was snug but worked (and still works) just fine.
I’m doing the same with the GMT900 parts. OEM rad, fans, harness, and alt. Putting in hydroboost and the larger front brakes next. Already running a hydroboost ps pump. They didn’t make a MBM/Arrival Blue truck in the later years so I’m stuck upgrading a 2004 since I had to have that color.
I’m doing the same with the GMT900 parts. OEM rad, fans, harness, and alt. Putting in hydroboost and the larger front brakes next. Already running a hydroboost ps pump. They didn’t make a MBM/Arrival Blue truck in the later years so I’m stuck upgrading a 2004 since I had to have that color.
The hydroboost and bigger brakes are going to be super sweet too. The stock 12" brakes were my biggest complaint on that truck. Well the wimpy *** brakes. I had what was called a Spring Special. They only came in indigo blue metallic and only extended cab short beds. They came in 2wd with torsion bar suspension and VHO chrome wheels and dual piston rear calipers. They were a super weird duck but pretty cool at the same time. They were full optioned trucks similar to a denali, with a SS/VHO chassis (2wd with torsion bars) and 20" wheels stock. But man those brakes could not handle the 20s
I liked arrival blue more than indigo, which is another weird thing, my truck was an 04 and indigo had been discontinued by then. Getting parts and touch up paint for my truck was very hard and I had to fight with guys at the dealer and tire shops about it because 2004's weren't supposed to be indigo blue or come with 20's or have the dual piston rear calipers etc. Took me months to figure out the truck came that way from the factory and why it was such a pain to get stuff for it.
