The fix for my endless alternator failure's
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
I can't see how that would happen unless something is installed wrong. Take it all apart and inspect it. There is no way to align or mis align the bolts. They either go in the holes or dont..
Did you remember to remove the little L bracket brace that bolts to the top rear side of the original alternator?
Did you remember to remove the little L bracket brace that bolts to the top rear side of the original alternator?
Yes I removed that painful 13 mm bolt lol and the L bracket......the alternator is working
When I uninstalled the alternator I also removed the aluminum bracket......upon reinstall I got the bottom bolt started and then the bracket bolt and the top bolt and went a little by little on each bolt......any thoughts on that.? I can wrench on it some more I just dont want to strip the bolts
Tightening it more isn't going to fix it so don't start doing that.
Something is wrong somewhere it sounds like and you need to take it all down and carefully inspect everything and figure out what that is.
Pictures would help A TON
Other wise we can't tell you if we can't see what is going on with it. There is no typical issue that people run into with this swap so we can't really say it is likely to be ________. It either goes in or doesn't, there isn't any adjustments or anything.
You do not have to take the large L bracket off though to do this swap, just the alternator itself. So you could put that on and make sure it's all as it should be then slip the alternator in.
If you have to maybe start over with the stock one and get it all arranged and see if it gives you any clues as to what is going on.
Something is wrong somewhere it sounds like and you need to take it all down and carefully inspect everything and figure out what that is.
Pictures would help A TON
Other wise we can't tell you if we can't see what is going on with it. There is no typical issue that people run into with this swap so we can't really say it is likely to be ________. It either goes in or doesn't, there isn't any adjustments or anything.
You do not have to take the large L bracket off though to do this swap, just the alternator itself. So you could put that on and make sure it's all as it should be then slip the alternator in.
If you have to maybe start over with the stock one and get it all arranged and see if it gives you any clues as to what is going on.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
Tightening it more isn't going to fix it so don't start doing that.
Something is wrong somewhere it sounds like and you need to take it all down and carefully inspect everything and figure out what that is.
Pictures would help A TON
Other wise we can't tell you if we can't see what is going on with it. There is no typical issue that people run into with this swap so we can't really say it is likely to be ________. It either goes in or doesn't, there isn't any adjustments or anything.
You do not have to take the large L bracket off though to do this swap, just the alternator itself. So you could put that on and make sure it's all as it should be then slip the alternator in.
If you have to maybe start over with the stock one and get it all arranged and see if it gives you any clues as to what is going on.
Something is wrong somewhere it sounds like and you need to take it all down and carefully inspect everything and figure out what that is.
Pictures would help A TON
Other wise we can't tell you if we can't see what is going on with it. There is no typical issue that people run into with this swap so we can't really say it is likely to be ________. It either goes in or doesn't, there isn't any adjustments or anything.
You do not have to take the large L bracket off though to do this swap, just the alternator itself. So you could put that on and make sure it's all as it should be then slip the alternator in.
If you have to maybe start over with the stock one and get it all arranged and see if it gives you any clues as to what is going on.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
NO. That is only for swap vehicles when you wire a direct 12 volt source to the alternator
That alternator is controlled by pulse width modulation. AKA frequency, and when measured with a volt meter that 12 volt signal, modulated shows up in the 9 volt range. So when putting one of those alternators on an old school car that does not have the computer (the pcm) you have to control the alternator you trick the system by putting a resistor in a hot wire so that you don't feed 12-13 volts into the alternator control wire (the exciter)
That alternator is controlled by pulse width modulation. AKA frequency, and when measured with a volt meter that 12 volt signal, modulated shows up in the 9 volt range. So when putting one of those alternators on an old school car that does not have the computer (the pcm) you have to control the alternator you trick the system by putting a resistor in a hot wire so that you don't feed 12-13 volts into the alternator control wire (the exciter)
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Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 14
From: Atlanta, GA Ft. Walton Beach, FL
couple observations on my 244 Alt. w/ new exciter wire. been using for probablly more than 10years.less than 10K miles.
when the outside temperatures are exceeding 90* the alt. slowely decreases output the hotter the less charge. so at 90* the AC must be off it's drain on the battery + ineffiecient Alt. needle is lowest I've sean close to the orange.
after initial ignition she charges just above 12 oclock I think thanks about 12.5VDC.when warmed just at 12 oclock after the next 5 miles she will fall below 12 OC.
when nice and toastie outside just before engine electric cooling fans come on. I purchased the car in 2001 130K miles later the fan maybe came on twice, and stayed on when engine was turned off all this w/ no AC/radio any accessories.
the latest charge related observation was at idel 590RPM which is kindof on the lowish side for a mild cammed car, the oil preasure needle vibrates just below 40LB in concert w/ the low charge needle give a tad bit of throttle oil preasure smooths to constant reading.
what's weird about the 244 and this charge sys. when engine is warm and the charge starts to lower upon turning off after the restart the charge does in fact increase a little but always goe's back to just below 12OC.edit: this car is on it's third battery at about 135K miles.
edit: I've had issues w/ charging since the little 105amp. orginal. the 244 is a slite improvement but not as good as it could be, like I really want to turn on the AC.
when the outside temperatures are exceeding 90* the alt. slowely decreases output the hotter the less charge. so at 90* the AC must be off it's drain on the battery + ineffiecient Alt. needle is lowest I've sean close to the orange.
after initial ignition she charges just above 12 oclock I think thanks about 12.5VDC.when warmed just at 12 oclock after the next 5 miles she will fall below 12 OC.
when nice and toastie outside just before engine electric cooling fans come on. I purchased the car in 2001 130K miles later the fan maybe came on twice, and stayed on when engine was turned off all this w/ no AC/radio any accessories.
the latest charge related observation was at idel 590RPM which is kindof on the lowish side for a mild cammed car, the oil preasure needle vibrates just below 40LB in concert w/ the low charge needle give a tad bit of throttle oil preasure smooths to constant reading.
what's weird about the 244 and this charge sys. when engine is warm and the charge starts to lower upon turning off after the restart the charge does in fact increase a little but always goe's back to just below 12OC.edit: this car is on it's third battery at about 135K miles.
edit: I've had issues w/ charging since the little 105amp. orginal. the 244 is a slite improvement but not as good as it could be, like I really want to turn on the AC.
Get another alternator. The charge getting lower and lower as it gets hotter is what they do when they are failing.
That's what all of the alternators did that I had fail on me, except for I think 2 of them. And they died the first time I went past 6000 rpm. But that was the little f body alternators. I never had any of those problems with the 145 amp alt's that were good. You just need to get a good one, yours is bad
That's what all of the alternators did that I had fail on me, except for I think 2 of them. And they died the first time I went past 6000 rpm. But that was the little f body alternators. I never had any of those problems with the 145 amp alt's that were good. You just need to get a good one, yours is bad
I said all that just because if I did actually have an engine problem the car wouldn't have ran for another 50k miles of really hard abuse, so the bouncing needle in my case was the sender, probably on yours too.
Another happy customer, I did the swap this past weekend. My 2001 original alternator was putting out good voltage at cold start but kept drifting lower and lower once it got hot, eventually noticably below 13A on the gauge which was causing me to lose about 4lbs of fuel pressure. After the install drove it around for a good half our in 90 degree weather and voltage continued to stay over 13, although it does drop a hair a few minutes after a cold start. Turned on lights/radio/HVAC blower and still stayed steady. Spliced in a new exciter wire pigtail at your recommendation too, other than that (owing to the absurdly small gauge of the factory red wire) install is a breeze. Went with the ACDELCO 3351092 at rockauto.
Another happy customer, I did the swap this past weekend. My 2001 original alternator was putting out good voltage at cold start but kept drifting lower and lower once it got hot, eventually noticably below 13A on the gauge which was causing me to lose about 4lbs of fuel pressure. After the install drove it around for a good half our in 90 degree weather and voltage continued to stay over 13, although it does drop a hair a few minutes after a cold start. Turned on lights/radio/HVAC blower and still stayed steady. Spliced in a new exciter wire pigtail at your recommendation too, other than that (owing to the absurdly small gauge of the factory red wire) install is a breeze. Went with the ACDELCO 3351092 at rockauto.
Good to hear it man, glad it helped. $169 is a great deal for a high output stable alternator.
Another happy customer, I did the swap this past weekend. My 2001 original alternator was putting out good voltage at cold start but kept drifting lower and lower once it got hot, eventually noticably below 13A on the gauge which was causing me to lose about 4lbs of fuel pressure. After the install drove it around for a good half our in 90 degree weather and voltage continued to stay over 13, although it does drop a hair a few minutes after a cold start. Turned on lights/radio/HVAC blower and still stayed steady. Spliced in a new exciter wire pigtail at your recommendation too, other than that (owing to the absurdly small gauge of the factory red wire) install is a breeze. Went with the ACDELCO 3351092 at rockauto.
The AC Delco brand is just a remanufactured alternator done in Mexico next to all of the other remanufactured alternators
My 105amp used truck alternator works great. Only a slight upgrade from the 102 amp fbody but seems to be under rated
Last edited by chrysler kid; Aug 30, 2020 at 02:59 AM.
TECH Addict
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 977
Remy is just another one of those old brand names that was part of the old AC Delco umbrella that's long gone.
AC = Albert Champion... yes, THAT Champion... he started the Champion Spark Plug Co. with some partners, but when he got disgruntled with them and struck out on his own, that company sued him for using his own name, so he called his new one AC instead
Delco = Dayton Engineering Laboratories Company... was owned by Charles Kettering until GM bought it... made the first practical mass-produced electric starter, then ignition systems and generators... basically the entire auto electric system at the time... Kettering stayed with GM after that and rose to a high position within it
Remy = an old company in the same business as Delco (a competitor); bought by United Motors and merged into Delco around WW1 by GM after GM bought United
GM merged Delco and AC into that one familiar one brand name sometime in the 70s. Remy, Anderson, United, Packard Electric, etc. all were included. I think Harrison (radiators and A/C and such) too.
All of that went to the company that was called Delphi for awhile, when GM divested it in the 90s; except Remy, which had been divested on its own a couple of years earlier. Remy still licenses the Delco name. Delphi has split stuff off, bought other stuff, renamed itself, gone bankrupt, moved to foreign countries to evade taxes, etc. It's quite the story. No wonder GM kicked it to the curb.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aptiv
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ACDelco
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delco_Electronics
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remy_International
http://www.delcoremy.com/alternators...y-model-family
AFAIK the alternators for our cars & trucks aren't a Remy product but I could easily be wrong. Since all of those distinctions are just brand names and licensing and other such paperwork and money shuffling and box printing (marketing) among a bunch of interrelated incestuous companies whose relationships go back more than a century, it's hard for me to say whose design or product or other REALITY they really are.
AC = Albert Champion... yes, THAT Champion... he started the Champion Spark Plug Co. with some partners, but when he got disgruntled with them and struck out on his own, that company sued him for using his own name, so he called his new one AC instead
Delco = Dayton Engineering Laboratories Company... was owned by Charles Kettering until GM bought it... made the first practical mass-produced electric starter, then ignition systems and generators... basically the entire auto electric system at the time... Kettering stayed with GM after that and rose to a high position within it
Remy = an old company in the same business as Delco (a competitor); bought by United Motors and merged into Delco around WW1 by GM after GM bought United
GM merged Delco and AC into that one familiar one brand name sometime in the 70s. Remy, Anderson, United, Packard Electric, etc. all were included. I think Harrison (radiators and A/C and such) too.
All of that went to the company that was called Delphi for awhile, when GM divested it in the 90s; except Remy, which had been divested on its own a couple of years earlier. Remy still licenses the Delco name. Delphi has split stuff off, bought other stuff, renamed itself, gone bankrupt, moved to foreign countries to evade taxes, etc. It's quite the story. No wonder GM kicked it to the curb.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aptiv
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ACDelco
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delco_Electronics
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remy_International
http://www.delcoremy.com/alternators...y-model-family
AFAIK the alternators for our cars & trucks aren't a Remy product but I could easily be wrong. Since all of those distinctions are just brand names and licensing and other such paperwork and money shuffling and box printing (marketing) among a bunch of interrelated incestuous companies whose relationships go back more than a century, it's hard for me to say whose design or product or other REALITY they really are.
Last edited by RB04Av; Aug 30, 2020 at 01:00 PM.
The alternator mounting pads are the same. The depth is the same for the most part. The main thing is the larger alt is a larger diameter. I would strongly think it would work with that relocation mount.