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The fix for my endless alternator failure's

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Old 05-10-2024, 05:44 PM
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I just got a Powermaster 165 amp from my local speed shop for the same price as Summit has them, and I had it the next day. Looks like a nice piece too! Considering I've gotta mount it up high on top, I didn't want a nasty looking alternator ruining my fresh engine bay.
Old 05-11-2024, 07:18 PM
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Thanks, I looked at them and would love a 120 amp chrome, but that will take awhile. So, I chickened out and ordered an OEM replacement AC DELCO from them for ~120 after taxes and it will be here Tuesday. It's a stock replacement so I know it'll fit with no issues, and since I'm not running any extra electrical I think it will be fine.

BTW, both the alternator that was on my car and the K3G I got from the junkyard are Delphi
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Old 05-15-2024, 07:35 AM
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Update: new OEM replacement alternator from Summit arrived yesterday and is installed and running. The voltage seemed correct at first, but then dropped a bit. Seems to be running just over 13, just to the right of center on the gauge. I took it for 3 short drives yesterday, no battery tender. Going to try driving again today for 20-30 minutes at a time and see what happens. If the voltage stays the same, and the car runs and restarts, I'm just going to start driving it and not overthink it. I will also put a meter on the terminals once warmed up to see the actual voltage since these gauges aren't always accurate, maybe my old alternator was running high because it was on its ways out (or because I did have a major loose connection, that was found back in December)! My '98 with 140K miles and auto would drop so low when stopped in traffic in D with AC on that the turn signal would stop flashing, but it kept running and running!

One thing I noticed last night was how bright the dash lights were - I haven't driven this car at night much and its been years, but I remember wishing I could make the dash brighter, but last night I had to turn it down a hair. So I think that is a good sign.

Maybe next winter I'll check all the grounds and connections, and I'm going to look into the big 3 which I just heard about researching the alternator. Next time I replace it though, I'm going to get on of the stock ones wound for more amps.


Lastly, a few notes on the alternator replacement, might have been mentioned here and elsewhere but thought I'd share:
  • I wasn't able to remove the alternator from the bracket, but was able to twist and get the bracket and alternator out as one piece and then separate.
  • I couldn't get the alternator and bracket as one piece back in there, and I wasn't able to get the alternator in there with the bracket already bolted in place
  • I ended up putting the alternator up there, resting on the sway bar, then putting the bracket up there, attaching to the alternator, then bolting the whole thing to the block
  • I decided to put the 13mm rear bolt in when the front bolts were still very loose. Glad I did, as the upper front bolt was not through the alternator housing, and therefore I couldn't get the rear in, and glad I found it before tightening all of the front bolts.
Serpentine belt tip: You all probably already know this tip, but I've done the serpentine belts on these a few times over the years, and always frustrated me trying to get everything lined up from under the car and then it falls apart when I try to crawl out and go to the top to tension. This time I finally figured out to put the socket and ratchet on the tension first, then drape the belt over the socket and let it fall down into the gap being held up by the socket. Then, I crawled under and routed the belt, with the socket holding the belt up and in place. The amount of slack was perfect for lining everything up without it popping off. Then, once the belt was in place, I crawled back out from under and simply did the tensioner and was done!
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Y2K_Frenzy (05-15-2024)
Old 05-15-2024, 10:11 AM
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Just went for ~25 minute drive, including highway for a bit at 70. Popped up the headlights to see if they would cause the voltage to lower, forgetting my right low beam came unplugged and passed a trooper LOL. But no issues there. Anyway, when I first started the car, the voltage was up near the 3/4 mark, which I assume is probably around 15V. After driving, it slowly creeped down and when I got home, it was just above the 1/2 mark which I think is supposed to be 13V. Put a meter on the battery and read 13.98V, which I think is right where it should be after driving a bit. At this point, I'm just going to drive it like a regular car and not worry until the voltage gets to the yellow And every Sunday evening I hook up the trickle charger just in case I don't drive her for a week or 2.
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Y2K_Frenzy (05-15-2024)
Old 05-15-2024, 01:49 PM
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Glad it's working now; current voltage sounds normal for an OE replacement once everything is fully warmed up/hot.

I'm surprised you had such trouble with getting the unit into place though. I've done a couple of these over the years on my various LS1 F-bodies, and it's always popped into place with just a little bit of twisting/maneuvering. I've never had that kind of trouble with a stock case-size alternator.
Old 05-15-2024, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Glad it's working now; current voltage sounds normal for an OE replacement once everything is fully warmed up/hot.

I'm surprised you had such trouble with getting the unit into place though. I've done a couple of these over the years on my various LS1 F-bodies, and it's always popped into place with just a little bit of twisting/maneuvering. I've never had that kind of trouble with a stock case-size alternator.
Yeah, I don't know. When I removed it still attached to the bracket, it seemed like it wasn't going to come out at all, but then somehow I twisted it the right way and it came out without any issue. Maybe I just couldn't figure out how to get it back in the same way. But I just thought I'd share what worked for me just in case someone else is having the same issues. Went for a lunch break drive after posting, stopped for a gas cap (P0440) an alignment, then gas, then milk, so that's like 7 starts in 60-90 minutes and everything seems well
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Y2K_Frenzy (05-15-2024)
Old 05-21-2024, 09:14 AM
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A couple of years back I installed a new aftermarket alternator that should have fit a Yukon Denali/Cadillac Escalade, 145 Amps, tight fit but it worked in my 1999 LS1 Trans Am.
Old 05-21-2024, 10:07 AM
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One realization that hit me the other day was that I might have been able to get the silverado alternator in by using the same process of putting it up there without the bracket, then putting the bracket on the alternator, then bolting the whole thing to the block. But oh well, I'm happy with my new replacement.
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