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another happy customer....still waiting on my residual check pooter
LOL, what exactly did you do to contribute to all of this. I always laugh when you post in this thread taking credit.
Originally I had an idea the alternator may work on these cars, you told me someone told you it would fit. I did the leg work, I proved the concept, I gathered the info on connectors, gathered the info from junk yards on the code they use, I installed the alt, took the pics, made the post. You put one on your car after I did all that.
The junkyard alternator was 100% my idea. All you contributed was telling me that an alternator builder told you the larger case truck alt would fit on a F body. I thanked you for that information.
If I had gotten a dollar for this, you'd deserve about .000001 cents at most.
When I get my dollar, I'll send you the appropriate portion of it
Thanks for posting this. I just did this today bought myself a 145amp alt from the just yard threw it on and now my ls1 idles at 14v ac and head lights on with a underdrive pulley. Before i would struggle to be at 12v idling.
Not using the rear brace sounds like you won't have much issues IF you have the aluminum block that has the three front holes in it, but what if you put an iron block in that doesn't? I wouldn't run it without the brace in that case. Have you ever tried an alternator from a 97 V8 C1500? It bolts right up with the rear brace.
Not using the rear brace sounds like you won't have much issues IF you have the aluminum block that has the three front holes in it, but what if you put an iron block in that doesn't? I wouldn't run it without the brace in that case. Have you ever tried an alternator from a 97 V8 C1500? It bolts right up with the rear brace.
The iron block motors never had a rear brace in the first place, they used a mount bracket up high that only uses the 2 main bolts on all applications.
If you swap a iron block into an F body then you use the F body mount bracket and you're right back to square one with the same exact setup as the aluminum block. So it's a non issue.
If you swap in an iron block, you drill a hole for the F body alt bracket to be used on the iron block. So it's all the same.
As for the 97 v8 truck, I believe that's around a 100 amp alternator, and the point of this is to get a higher output so putting that alternator on there is a good option if you aren't wanting to getting higher output. However not having the rear bracket brace isn't an issue, so I wouldn't be concerned with hunting down alternators that use it. We've been doing this swap for many years now and not one complaint has come up due to not having the rear brace. I'll also a tech and I have experienced problems from 90's GM's if a tech forgot to install a brace say on the a/c compressor. But the compressor needs a lot more bracing. I checked and stethoscoped etc etc for issues from not using the brace on the F body alt and I saw no problems. I also ran that setup for years, and did it to others cars. The brace truly isn't a concern.
To add to this, in the 80's and 90's GM had braces on accessories on pretty much everything, I think they just carried it over to the early LS motors as good practice. Then later they ditched them. The reason I say this is because I normally preach that "they didn't put it there for no reason". So I believe the reason was is it had become normal practice, then they realized with the newer stiffer brackets and components that it was no longer needed and that is why we can get away with it.
Oh sorry, I should of linked the bracket to get an alternator down low with a truck harmonic balancer. I was more concerned on the flex of the bracket and throwing a belt and at the same time finding an alternator from a junkyard like you did. I've been reading some of the newer manufactured F body alternators added some vortex hole in the black plastic cooling piece on the back and won't fit down low but this 97 C1500 one will.
I bet braces were needed in the good ole days because V-belts needed so much more tension to keep from slipping. Serpentines are more like many mini-vees, so don't need as much tension, plus tensioners keep tension constant, negating the need to over-tighten to compensate for wear.
I bet braces were needed in the good ole days because V-belts needed so much more tension to keep from slipping. Serpentines are more like many mini-vees, so don't need as much tension, plus tensioners keep tension constant, negating the need to over-tighten to compensate for wear.
I don't disagree but I will add that my thought was the supports were needed due to stamped steel brackets flexed pretty easy and would allow the component mounted on it to vibrate a good bit. Don't see that issue with cast aluminum brackets.
I'm sure you had your day with stamped steel brackets, they seriously blow
Oh sorry, I should of linked the bracket to get an alternator down low with a truck harmonic balancer. I was more concerned on the flex of the bracket and throwing a belt and at the same time finding an alternator from a junkyard like you did. I've been reading some of the newer manufactured F body alternators added some vortex hole in the black plastic cooling piece on the back and won't fit down low but this 97 C1500 one will.
Oh okay now I gotcha. I went to the link and checked it out. Yeah that kit comes with the brace and all. Yeah you're going to be limited with that bracket. I personally haven't seen the new vent in the back cover but I remove those covers and drill holes all around the outer edge to allow for more breathing.
You may consider going to a F body front drive setup instead, may cost a little more but you would have more options if you did.
I don't disagree but I will add that my thought was the supports were needed due to stamped steel brackets flexed pretty easy and would allow the component mounted on it to vibrate a good bit. Don't see that issue with cast aluminum brackets.
I'm sure you had your day with stamped steel brackets, they seriously blow
Yeah I had forgotten about the "flex" aspect of stamped steel bracketry. Good thing we are past that for the most part, and V-belts, and ALWAYS adjusting them.
Yeah I had forgotten about the "flex" aspect of stamped steel bracketry. Good thing we are past that for the most part, and V-belts, and ALWAYS adjusting them.
Yup all that **** was terrible. They didn't line up well, always had to pry on them to get bolts to line up, the vibrated and made noise if a support bracket was left off the belts sucked *** etc etc.
I love technology. My father in law is an award winning classic car builder and he his wife and my wife don't understand my love affair with newer cars. The old cars are "cooler". I agree, but I have to work on them, that changes things.
Older cars are WAY cool, as long as they have modern engines and drivetrains in them, including 4-wheel disc brakes and modern wheels/tires.
SBC's, BBC's, SBF's and BBF's are all dinosaurs in my book. But that's just me.
So after 3 replacement alternators on my LQ9 98 z28 (stock harness) I’ve had enough. Got a new alternator from a 2002 Escalade. Bolted right up. Replaced the exciter wire to pin L on the alternator. Replaced wire from charge post to battery positive. Now have 14.4 volts w all loads on. Finally. Fml.
Please forgive me for reposting this as i posted this on my own thread, but i see this one is way more active and might get faster help on here
98 CAMARO LS1 Truck alternator swap/mod:
I got everything in went smooth everything buttoned up
but now the Guage is right down. here are the readings with a multimeter DCV @ 20.
105amp alternator
12.55 with car off
14.44 with car on
14.2 with lights radio fan on
145amp alternator
11.92 with car off
11.83 with car on
11.44 with lights radio fan on
With the old alternator the car would struggle/grind to start with the new one it starts up right away all day long back to back with no struggle or grinding,
that being said maybe i ruined the battery? Relying on the battery to start the car with the old alternator? Note i got this battery last year
But what doesnt make sense is that the numbers with the old alternator are in perfect range. Now with the new one they are way off.
Any insight will help kind of buzzkilled was excited for this mod. I hope its as simple as changing the battery.
P.S when i say "new alternator" i mean a 2004 alternator out of a salvaged truck. Technically not new lol.
When car is just on, fan light stero off Car on with lights stero and fan on
Your new alternator is not charging, it appears to be bad. Put the original small alternator back in it and run the car. If it also does not charge you have some other problem. If it does charge then your new used alternator is bad and you need to try another.
I would have to be there to diagnose anything further it's too hard to say without being there.
I've noticed that happening more once around here. Loose/disconnected exciter wire.
Let's get excited! LOL
Right! I had a deep feeling something about that wire was gonna be the cause. my dad from the beginning told me to check that wire n i totally ignored him. That old man wisdom.
Learned a lot through it hope others see this n dont make the same mistake or check that wire if they have the same problem
LOL glad you got it, but in the very first post of this thread I said do not skip the exciter wire, replace it! And gave a part number lol. I put that in there because they do go bad and they are very easy to replace and cheap. Besides that you have to stretch the OE one a little to make it fit, all things considered it should be replaced.
Anyway, glad you found it man. And listen to them old men, they know a thing or two
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