camarokid6771

did you buy one to try?

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

I did get one and bolted it up tonight. Its a nice solid piece of aluminum with a stiff throttle spring. The blade travels full open and closed, bolt holes lined up perfectly, IAC/TPS sensors fit like a charm and there is a set screw for adjusting idle blade position. I spoke with my tuner and he recommended drilling a 3/16ths hole centered in the lower half of the blade to assist with a smoother idle. I have not gotten to run the TB yet as i am finishing my build this weekend. I should have my ECM back on Saturday and attempt a few starts/cruising trips to try everything out.

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

I would try adjusting the idle set screw before drilling a hole. Hole should be the last resort.

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

I did end up holding out on drilling the hole and got it started and running for about 10-20 minutes so far. I did have to open the throttle blade a little to keep from choking it out...obviously. I am still working on getting all the air out of the coolant system (got up to 250ish*F trying to get the coolant to circulate). I wasn't really comfortable to let the temp rise any more, so I shut it down to let it cool off. I am going to do the voltage test on the TPS tomorrow to make sure I am safe. So far the TB is looking like a win.

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

I got it all tuned in today. You do have to adjust the TPS a little after you get a smooth idle. It's not enough to drill and tap a new holes or anything. I took a drill and just widened out the screw holes on the sensor housing. I tapped the blue wire and adjusted it back and forth (probably 5000000 times b/c I'm OCD) until I got the voltage around .500 +/-.005 volts at idle and around 4.65volts at WOT. The setup i have will only travel to like 4.3ish volts. I did have to grind off the WOT stop in the back. Originally it stopped the travel around 2.7ish volts. Once I drilled/ground I used the ODB monitor to verify the TPS was centered(showing 0% at idle). All in all it took me about 2 hours from start to finish (including beer time and everything).

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Thats about right, but for the price, Id put an hour or two in before coughing up big bucks for a name brand TB

Slot the TPS sensor holes because at closed it still read 9% or so
Grind the back stop so it can hit WOT
Adjust the blade open slightly so it doesnt stick when it slams shut
Drill the IAC passage ways bigger so it can idle better

Rise of the Phoenix

iTrader: (27)

I'd much rather spend the money on a NW TB and be done with it. Never heard a bad thing about the NW TB's.

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

I havent run mine yet, but did get it installed with the sensors. I had to dremel down the TPS sensor stud slightly because it was a little too big to fit in the sensor (0.05" or so). I also used a step bit to open up the IAC passage because it wasnt big enough. Overall about 30 minutes of work.

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

I have driven with it 4-5 times now, mainly cruising around and have had zero issues. I do have a little rpm hang when coming to a stop but i only have a mail order tune. I feel pretty confident that will go away with a final tune. I really have zero complaints about the throttle body...looks good, works good and all at a great price. I have spent way more money on stuff that was a complete abortion and ended up throwing away or setting in a corner. The worst case is if you spend $150 and it doesn't work out... then don't drink beer for a week...LOL!
I guess the end result of the ongoing debate is....... if you feel more comfortable paying $400-$500 for a throttle body for peace of mind and "not hearing anything bad", then go for it.

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

Finally got it to the dyno and tuned. My tuner had zero issues tuning with it and everything was consistent. I am so glad I went this route VS paying for a name. A few hours of minor labor (drilling the idle hole in the butterfly, grinding the throttle stop and adjusting the TPS) and whole bunch of money saved.

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

I drive around with mine as well, no problems. I haven't had to drill a hole in the blade for idle, but I have a very mild cam relatively.

blueracer15

iTrader: (2)

i mean why wouldnt you want to pay for a quality part that has been tested adn u know is made of good material. i had a friend buy an ebay throttle and the blade broke and got sucked into the intake manifold, i wouldnt want to cheap on on something like that

87dimeblazer

iTrader: (1)

Because I have the same result with my throttle body as someone who paid $400-500 for one. If you take your time and ensure everything is put together correctly/secured you will not have any issues. I will never believe that every single throttle body or any other component that large name manufacturers sell is tested to match the original test component and never have issues or break. They get the measurements and see what works and then mass produce them to push out the door. You can look all over and find issues with name brands (cosmetic or functional).

Atomic

iTrader: (37)

I had the ebay 102mm and the Nick Williams 92mm side by side and they looked pretty much identical. The ebay one needed a little work to fit nicely with the sensors, but thats well worth the $300 I saved by buying the ebay one.

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

I just went thru the install of a 92 mm TB.
Minor issues had to be adjusted but well worth the savings.

I had to sligthly enlarge the mounting holes in the TPS for the screws to align, the sensor reads perfect 0-100%.

I also had to grind down the stub on the throttle shaft for the TPS to fit.

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

What did you use to do this? Can you give a basic write up?

RGSS

iTrader: (2)

For the TPS I used the next drill bit that would not fit in the screw holes. I dont remember the size. I did this by hand, holding the drill bit with my fingers.

For the stub on the throttle shaft I completely disassembled the TB, removed the shaft (press fit on the bearings) and used a stone on the mill to grind .007 off the stub end. I could have probably forced the TPS on the shaft but that was my decision. You can do this without disassembling the TB and just use a Dremel too.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

Dead link. Are they still in business?

Whisper

iTrader: (12)

Anyone else bought one of these recently? One of these not being junk will basically determine if I go with a Fast 102 setup or not because I refuse to be like a woman buying a brand name handbag and pay 500$ just because someone put their name on it.

bryanwood74

Same here, interested in the WARR performance 92mm but I wanted to get feedback first. I assume that is what the last couple posters bought, and still had to do work on them?