Huge F'ing Issue - Broken Head Bolt
#21
If you pull the head and there is enough bolt sticking up. Mask everything and VERY carefully use a cut off wheel to put a flat head screwdriver like notch in the top of the broken part of the bolt. After you have a notch try using a screwdriver, pry bar or other flat bladed tool to turn it out. If you use the screwdriver or pry bar long ways it should give a pretty good amount of pressure to break the broken bolt free hopefully.
#22
It sucks, but if you feel it's beyond your skill level, I'd look to pay someone to come and do it for you. Rent a car if need be, pay them, because if you try and f'it up even more, you're looking at your car being down longer, and the bill getting higher to fix this.
This is the reason I went to head studs. They protect the block better by not putting the stress on them like a bolt does.
If you're going to use bolts again, run them all the way in prior to installing the heads to make sure you're not going to bind anywhere. It's also a good indicator if you have all the moisture out of the bolt holes.
This is the reason I went to head studs. They protect the block better by not putting the stress on them like a bolt does.
If you're going to use bolts again, run them all the way in prior to installing the heads to make sure you're not going to bind anywhere. It's also a good indicator if you have all the moisture out of the bolt holes.
#23
If you pull the head and there is enough bolt sticking up. Mask everything and VERY carefully use a cut off wheel to put a flat head screwdriver like notch in the top of the broken part of the bolt. After you have a notch try using a screwdriver, pry bar or other flat bladed tool to turn it out. If you use the screwdriver or pry bar long ways it should give a pretty good amount of pressure to break the broken bolt free hopefully.
#24
If there is enough sticking up.. Which i doubt there is judging by where it broke.. I would use a set of vice grips.. I cant tell you how many times i have made a broken bolt worse by using the screwdriver. method.. Another thing you can do is if you hvae a mig welder through a few tack onto a bolt if its shallow enough in the hole.. use the bolt to turn it out
#25
Get an easy out kit,and not a cheap chinese one.Cover and mask off everything.Start out with a pilot bit maybe an 1/8" drill very slowly and take your time and use cutting oil.Do not overheat the bit or the bolt or then it will become harder to drill. Maybe get a few bits if you dont know how to sharpen them.If it starts to make any noise or not drill,stop and get a new bit.Once you get the pilot drilled you can go up bigger again making sure not to over heat the bit or bolt.Once you are to the right size for the extracter to bite tap it in and give it a try.If it does not go, heat up only the bolt with a micro torch then spray with a good penatrating oil,not wd40 then try again.I like to use cobalt or high speed steel bits.Never had any luck with the titanium stuff
#26
11Second Club
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Dallas (Richardson), TX, USA
My bolt-out kit has very short little bits. Is there something he can use as an "extension" for these since the chuck of the drill obviously ain't goin' down in that hole one bit? I've never seen such a thing, but I was curious if others had an idea.
#30
Heads are actually easier to put on / take off with studs, even still in the car.
Actually, you HAVE to put the studs in first before putting the heads on especially on the passenger side lower bolt holes.
Actually, you HAVE to put the studs in first before putting the heads on especially on the passenger side lower bolt holes.
#31
This is my exact problem..... I need a 6" long drill bit in order to get down the hole that far.
#32
I know this idea might sound crazy but a good welder can hit the broken bolt top enough to where you could weld a t handle allen or other small tool and then use it to twist the bolt out. If you use a mig welder it will not weld aluminum but it should weld the bolt because they are not aluminum. For extra safety mask off and cover around the broken bolt with tape. If you are scared to try it and need a video or pictures of someone using an easy out you really should pay a machine shop or other skilled person. The hardest part is finding anyone who will want to touch it for liability reasons. Sometimes even the most skilled mess up and as a tech I know that if it wasn't my own car I would not want to take it in. Remember pulling the engine if necessary is cheaper and easier than replacing the block.
#33
#34
Welding a nut to it is another way if there is access.Be sure not to put too much pressure or force as you attempt to turn the easy out or it will snap,then you will be really fucked and have to bore/grind it away with a die grinder and stones.
#35
The bolt broke off for ONE reason only! The threads were not cleaned and resized properly! The piece of bolt that is broken off is siezed in that hole....only one thing is going to get that out.
Next time buy the proper thread sizing tool and you won't be going through this!
Next time buy the proper thread sizing tool and you won't be going through this!
#36
DumA$$
The bolt broke off for ONE reason only! The threads were not cleaned and resized properly! The piece of bolt that is broken off is siezed in that hole....only one thing is going to get that out.
Next time buy the proper thread sizing tool and you won't be going through this!
Next time buy the proper thread sizing tool and you won't be going through this!
#40
If you do not feel confident see if anyone will work on it as it is otherwise it is smart to pull the motor so someone can really tackle it well. If you need a block you might as well go for an ls3 crate or used which is very expensive so try to get someone to bite on fixing it.