OK so in the middle of a head an cam swap and as I was tightning the bolts.... the number one listed bolt broke. I torqued them all to 22 lbs as it says, then drew a line on them vertical with a line on the top. I then rotated them 90 degrees in the proper order just as it says to. (That was the easy part.) Then its back to #1 dead center bolt in the heads and then ""POP"" bolt broke. I had about 7 threads left to go but really it had another 90 degrees. I then took all the remaining bolts out and what do I do now??? ANY IDEAS ON HOW TO GET THIS ONE OUT?

 

try a reverse tap set...there are special bits made for removing these if at the surface...

this is why I would always use ARP bolts...

 

Get an easy out kit,and not a cheap chinese one.Cover and mask off everything.Start out with a pilot bit maybe an 1/8" drill very slowly and take your time and use cutting oil.Do not overheat the bit or the bolt or then it will become harder to drill. Maybe get a few bits if you dont know how to sharpen them.If it starts to make any noise or not drill,stop and get a new bit.Once you get the pilot drilled you can go up bigger again making sure not to over heat the bit or bolt.Once you are to the right size for the extracter to bite tap it in and give it a try.If it does not go, heat up only the bolt with a micro torch then spray with a good penatrating oil,not wd40 then try again.I like to use cobalt or high speed steel bits.Never had any luck with the titanium stuff

 

Yea man should have done ARP's while there. I hope these were at least new

 

this is the second time i have seen someone do a H/c swap and use the factory torque to yeild bolts.Like WTF? Yeah pull the head and try to use an easy out if you cant grab it with pliers or vice grips.Then swap them all out for arp

 

Here is where it broke, so its deep in the threads.

 

Were they brand new bolts?

 

damn what a mess, I hope the remaining bolt is at least loose in the block...

 

They were brand new bolts from GM.... and yes I cleaned the bolt holes. I did that part twice over with a grooved one of my old bolts and I even rigged up a vacuum with my old crossover heat tube. I cut the tubing and used it like a straw to get the rest out. Worked great. I do have arp bolts on the way but i guess I need an easy-out tool and begin again with the new arp's. My question is if anyone can instruct me on how to do this? I am not a complete idiot but this does not sound simple. Thanks for laughing at me though...

 

Defects happen with any mass produced part. Its a fact of life

With the boplt head missing, the torque on the threads is gone. It should be nearly fingertight, you just cant get your fingers down there. Find a long left hand drill bit and a steel sleeve to fit over it but still fit down the bolt holes. Thats to protect the threads when you drill in case the bit tries to wander off-center

You'll need a new set of TTY bolts even though you only did 1 of the passes on them. If you got them from a dealership, go exchange them because one was defective

If the headgaskets delaminated at all when you removed the heads, they also need to be replaced

 

I tried this same method and guess what? Broke threads in the block. Why you ask? Because it still leaves crap in the hole. I bought the ARP thread chaser and it works great. I try to convince people it is worth the money but they just wont listen....until its too late.

 

you should be able to get it out but use ARP headbolts IMO

 

I had the same problem using felpro(GM) bolts on an LT1 I built. All the holes had been cleaned with a thread chaser. Broke one bolt off, returned the box and got another set. Broke another bolt off. Went back and got ARP's.

 

Fo sho worth the money. I took an old stock head bolt and cut slots in the threads diagonally with a cutoff wheel, homemade chaser FTW.

Don't worry it's not the end of the world. Pull the head and get an ease-out kit. Would be good if it's still loose in there, and get some ARP bolts they're not that expensive and they're reusable!

 

Instruction? Did you not read my post?

 

Instructions should come with ease-out kit, find a piece of tubing that will fit in bolt hole to protect the threads. Drill pilot hole for ease-out, Tap
ease-out in drilled hole and turn counterclockwise. Bolt should come out easily as there is no tensoin on threads.. good luck.

 

Left handed drill bit maybe..


And I'd love to show this thread to that dumbass that was swearing up and down that it was OK to re-use stock head bolts.

 

did you try and FULLY torque number 1 then go on to number 2?

 

you could also just buy an angle gauge instead of drawing linesi f you plan on messing with internals and jobs like this, it's deff. worth it.

but good luck. .

 

The measurements are 22 ft pounds, 90 degrees and 90 degrees (50 on the last pass for the outer centers). Seriously, you dont think an angle gauge is mandatory for that?