TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

If you pull the head and there is enough bolt sticking up. Mask everything and VERY carefully use a cut off wheel to put a flat head screwdriver like notch in the top of the broken part of the bolt. After you have a notch try using a screwdriver, pry bar or other flat bladed tool to turn it out. If you use the screwdriver or pry bar long ways it should give a pretty good amount of pressure to break the broken bolt free hopefully.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

It sucks, but if you feel it's beyond your skill level, I'd look to pay someone to come and do it for you. Rent a car if need be, pay them, because if you try and f'it up even more, you're looking at your car being down longer, and the bill getting higher to fix this.

This is the reason I went to head studs. They protect the block better by not putting the stress on them like a bolt does.

If you're going to use bolts again, run them all the way in prior to installing the heads to make sure you're not going to bind anywhere. It's also a good indicator if you have all the moisture out of the bolt holes.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I like this idea... Easy enough...

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

If there is enough sticking up.. Which i doubt there is judging by where it broke.. I would use a set of vice grips.. I cant tell you how many times i have made a broken bolt worse by using the screwdriver. method.. Another thing you can do is if you hvae a mig welder through a few tack onto a bolt if its shallow enough in the hole.. use the bolt to turn it out

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

Trying this section today, I should not have a problem handling this but I will take some photos as well just for instruction. Just to let everyone know that the bolt broke off at the threads so nothing is sticking out and the piece left inside is in the threads of the block.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

My bolt-out kit has very short little bits. Is there something he can use as an "extension" for these since the chuck of the drill obviously ain't goin' down in that hole one bit? I've never seen such a thing, but I was curious if others had an idea.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

^ The square easy-outs? Grab a 12 point 1/4" socket and magnetize it. Should work to hold it. Maybe a 1/4" drive socket.

1CAMWNDR

iTrader: (21)

This is why on my very first head swap I went with studs. Think about it.

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

Do studs prevent you from pulling the heads while the engine is still in the car? I just have ARP bolts, but with the blower, studs are probably worth the upgrade.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Heads are actually easier to put on / take off with studs, even still in the car.

Actually, you HAVE to put the studs in first before putting the heads on especially on the passenger side lower bolt holes.

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

This is my exact problem..... I need a 6" long drill bit in order to get down the hole that far.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

I know this idea might sound crazy but a good welder can hit the broken bolt top enough to where you could weld a t handle allen or other small tool and then use it to twist the bolt out. If you use a mig welder it will not weld aluminum but it should weld the bolt because they are not aluminum. For extra safety mask off and cover around the broken bolt with tape. If you are scared to try it and need a video or pictures of someone using an easy out you really should pay a machine shop or other skilled person. The hardest part is finding anyone who will want to touch it for liability reasons. Sometimes even the most skilled mess up and as a tech I know that if it wasn't my own car I would not want to take it in. Remember pulling the engine if necessary is cheaper and easier than replacing the block.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

I just wanted to make sure that the head is off the engine right. you should not be attempting this with the head on.

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

Welding a nut to it is another way if there is access.Be sure not to put too much pressure or force as you attempt to turn the easy out or it will snap,then you will be really fucked and have to bore/grind it away with a die grinder and stones.

O2Form

The bolt broke off for ONE reason only! The threads were not cleaned and resized properly! The piece of bolt that is broken off is siezed in that hole....only one thing is going to get that out.

Next time buy the proper thread sizing tool and you won't be going through this!

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

Dont bother me again... I am getting solutions not trying to get slapped in the face....*****. I am not stupid and this isn't my first rodeo but I have never had a head bolt break on me before....so I was asking for help and with your 522 posts I dont think you have ever had this issue. So listen when I say that the bolt holes were cleaned and vacuumed 4 times over two days. I went thru it.. both sides and each session took me about and hour and a half so dont be rude like you know whats going on. I dont appreciate it...we are all working together on this forum to assist people in need and your not helping with your stupid comment.

garygnu

if you use a left hand thread or easy out ,maybe spray some cold CO2 or NOS before removing the bolt.or try some JB80.good luck.

wav3form

iTrader: (1)

Quit messing around on the forum and go ask a garage/machine shop guy for some help. Arguing about it on here isn't really helping.

TheSilverOne

iTrader: (22)

i agree 100%

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

If you do not feel confident see if anyone will work on it as it is otherwise it is smart to pull the motor so someone can really tackle it well. If you need a block you might as well go for an ls3 crate or used which is very expensive so try to get someone to bite on fixing it.