Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

I have to take my time otherwise its another large buck for a new block. I am making progres though and I am trying to put together a step by step procee for the next person... like they say, if you dont know ask someone on LS1 Tech...So not only am I helping myself but anyone else that has this happen to them. BTW are you using the MS3 Cam?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I'm glad it's going well. Use a lot of light oil, penetrating oil works well. Compressed air from a blow tip could get the chips out. Lo speed on the drill, steady pressure.

joecar

Take your time.

After you get it out, the next question would be "are the threads in the block damaged...?" (...this is much less of a problem than having a partial bolt stuck down there).

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

OK so I would like to thank everyone for your help on this issue!!! I got that damn MF bolt out. I had to use some wierd *** drill bits and a lot of cutting oil. I now know how to do this and trust me its not easy. I weight about 225 and it took all my weight to get this thing out trust me, my left side hurts so bad right now and you cant believe I used concrete drill bits with diamond carbide tips (giving thanks to Andrew@Home Depot. I first drilled my pilot hole with a 5/16" normal titanium bit thru a socket so I can be sure I hit the bolt dead center. Then once I chewed up about 2 of them I went up to the 5/16" diamond tip bit. I would drill about a 1/4" of an inch with it and then it was dull so once I dulled it out I put in my 1/4" concrete bit and drilled it down to the bottom of the 5/16" hole. Then I grabbed another 5/16" and continued doing this till I went all the way thru the bolt. In between the changes I used an extention magnet to gather up all the cuttings. Once I drilled all the way thru it I inserted my easy out and the bolt came out no problem.

HONESTLY, DRILLING THE BOLT ALL THE WAY THRU IS THE KEY. LESS PRESSURE ON THE THREADS.

garygnu

great to hear you fixed it !great engineering ,this should be a sticky .now get some ARP studs.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

O2Form

Good job! Next time i'm deep in the poo i'm calling you! I wasn't trying to start trouble with you before, I know it seemed like it but I was trying to make a point. Better to spend a little extra on prep than have to go deep in poo later. TTY bolts are way to risky for my taste, unfortunately you found out why i dislike them. As you are turning them the final turn you really have no idea how much force is being applied to the bolt. If you exceed the bolts design because of any problems with the internal threads or bolt threads you end up snapping it clean off without any warning. Great you got it fixed, dam good work.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

As far as dirty threads go; I did a UDP this weekend. I'm thinking of taking the old bolt and cutting "grooves" in it with a dremel to use it as a cleaner for the crank snub like what was posted before. But different. I haven't ordered an ARP bolt for the crank yet. Used an installer tool i bought of someone here. Thing threaded in kinda rough. -Time to clean the threads out.

It hink i may do that with a stock headbolt as well. Unless I just buy a tap and have it welded tot he T-handle like the other guy did.

Soul TKR

iTrader: (4)

I had a spark plug break off in my AFR's a couple years ago. Had to friggin pull the head and take it to a machine shop. The guy had it out in about 30 seconds with an easy out... only charged me $5 and told me he probably could have taken it out of the head with it still on the car....

i was so pissed when he told me that!

gjohnsonws6

iTrader: (12)

Excellent.Very true about getting the hole in it so it shrinks down.Was not really all that hard was it?

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

It really was, its hard to drill thru something without heating up the bit and also drilling straight thru it. I will post some photo's tomorrow.

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

I have one last question about the ARP bolts I have and using the assy lube.

Is the compression lube necessary?

BTW I went ahead and ordered the thread chaser from ARP thru JEGS because when I ran down the threads with my grooved old bolt it ran down to the bottom with no issues but when I put in the ARP's it was not as smooth and got tighter closer to the middle so I would think its safe to say that grooving an old bolt to clean the threads does not do a good enough job. So I guess I did not have the threads as clean as I thought I did.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

You need to use some form of lube under any bolt that requires a specific torque. The lube they sell is very good but common oil also works

Glad to hear the socket fit the hole. Keeping the bit centered and away from the block threads are what saved it

Bramlok

iTrader: (7)

Glad to hear you got that broken bolt out! It sounded like a nightmare.

S10xGN

iTrader: (11)

Keep in mind the torque values are different for "oil" and "ARP lube". I'd definitely use the ARP lube. Also make sure you do the 5 "torque cycles" that ARP recommends. Once you start doing them, it'll become quite obvious as to why...

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

Good to see this story had a positive ending. I was going to say happy ending, but that didn't sound quite right.

I say avoid bolts all together and spend the extra for studs. I did and it made life so much easier with just torquing to a specific value and knowing that all of the stress is put onto the stud's threads as opposed to the blocks threads which are aluminum. The beauty is they are reusable and far more consistent time and time again.

Texas-Firehawk

iTrader: (1)

Complete bolt with the easy out still in it.











These are the drill bits I used.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

So this thread makes me think that if one were doing a heads/cam swap that you should at least spring for ARP head bolts if you don't want to go through the effort of installing ARP studs.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Looks like you did ding the block threads a bit. As we can see the extractor through the threads of the old bolt, they were hit.

I'd recommend you make the move to studs. This will put the thread twisting on a fine thread nut on top while the stud threaded into the block will not turn.

Head bolts going into the block must be dry. Any sealant may crack the block as the sealed threads will not allow air under the stud to escape under compression. These threaded bosses are blind. Compare to SBC head bolt deck bosses that are open on the back side.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...bolt-hole.html

pHEnomIC

iTrader: (14)

I was soo worried that i was going to break one doing mine. For some reason, a few of em felt if i put a single degree more on them, they would blow to pieces.