Replacement Air Flow Straighteners
Airflow is aiflow is airflow? Does it matter if it is being pulled or pushed? I'd assume flowing air is flowing air, wether it is being pulled or pushed. If thats the case the straighteners will help in both instances.
I think maybe your a little confused on the purpose of the straightener. It isnt there to help the flow of air, but to straighten it as it flows across the maf for a more accurate reading.
Airflow is aiflow is airflow? Does it matter if it is being pulled or pushed? I'd assume flowing air is flowing air, wether it is being pulled or pushed. If thats the case the straighteners will help in both instances.
I think maybe your a little confused on the purpose of the straightener. It isnt there to help the flow of air, but to straighten it as it flows across the maf for a more accurate reading.
If the air is being pulled into an engine it will follow all the way to the source.
As for the maf reading you would have less air flowing through the maf, you have added a restriction in flow.
if you squash that stuff down you will see how much surface area you have lost. so you now have less air/more resistence in air flow, just like a 100cpi cat flows better than a 200cpi and a 300cpi, the bigger the holes the more air flow, no cats at all the better the air flow, no mesh on your maf the better the air flow.
Us aussie guys dont run Mafs anyway, we all go mafless tunes.
if you squash that stuff down you will see how much surface area you have lost. so you now have less air/more resistence in air flow, just like a 100cpi cat flows better than a 200cpi and a 300cpi, the bigger the holes the more air flow, no cats at all the better the air flow, no mesh on your maf the better the air flow.
Us aussie guys dont run Mafs anyway, we all go mafless tunes.
In the end I think it's a matter of splitting hairs with limited to no real hp gains.
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That's the reason many people choose not to "descreen" the MAF, is because it does not properly smooth out the airflow in front of the MAF. Pretend the MAF wasn't there, sure this airflow straightener is pretty much pointless then, but the object is to open up and gain airflow a little bit more, but still allowing a smooth airflow over the MAF wires.
These screens are interesting. I think it would be worth something, because people seem to think descreened MAF's gain HP, so this more "opened" up screen, should help in two ways.
What keeps the screen in place though? Does it rest on a lip on the inside or something?
^This.
That's the reason many people choose not to "descreen" the MAF, is because it does not properly smooth out the airflow in front of the MAF. Pretend the MAF wasn't there, sure this airflow straightener is pretty much pointless then, but the object is to open up and gain airflow a little bit more, but still allowing a smooth airflow over the MAF wires.
These screens are interesting. I think it would be worth something, because people seem to think descreened MAF's gain HP, so this more "opened" up screen, should help in two ways.
What keeps the screen in place though? Does it rest on a lip on the inside or something?
I don't know about more or less H.P.but a more precise signal to the MAF must be good for something.
This what got my interest


I want to say that there seems to be more response when I start off from 0, but with the new plugs and wires change I'm not going to claim anything there.
How ever with the new screen in my son's WS6 there seems to feel stronger at take off.
I think there is a forced air effect in my Z with it's Ultra Z hood blowing directly into the air lid. And the WS6's ram air scoops doing the same. Also both cars have SLP CAIs. I realize there isn't any benefit from a start off
The screen stays in place from a friction fit against the side walls and bottoms out on the lip. The edge fins will deform , but they seat against the shelf and don't show through to the MAF There are some teats down by the shelf that you'll need to wiggle around to get the screen to fully seat. It's almost a snap fit.
I wonder if a test showing the candles in a tunnel with the fan in exhaust mode at one end of the tunnel sucking air or smoke through and the placing and removing a screen at the other would work ?
Last edited by jg rider; Apr 23, 2011 at 02:05 PM.
descreened 85mm truck MAF for years without issue, with various
GM MAF tables. Personally I'd rather tweak it right in the tables than
put another restriction back in the lineup.
The only reason I haven't descreened my MAF was b/c I was afraid of the turbulent air flow causing problems. This seems to be a nice solution. Hey, for 10 bucks, it sure won't hurt to try.
iirc, the stock LS1 MAF is 75mm.
For a 5/8" thickness which is a perfect depth fit and has much longer tubes, 5/8" vs. 1/4", you would probably get the 86mm, that's what I have. The hole diameters ar 1/8" instead of the stock 1/16". This is less restrictive to air flow, if that amounts to much.
I also had an 18000 miles almost stock 2001 WS6 to play with for a few days. I drove it around descreened and screened., I definitely felt an improved responce
The air straightener thing seems to be a big thing with Corvette people
There's a company that's selling these for $50.00
http://www.halltechsystems.com/Produ...uctCode=HC.125
Read what's said
http://www.101corvetteprojects.com/2...-installation/
Here's some observations on my Z. I have a Ultra Z hood that has a ram air scoop that directs air straight into the SLP lid, Maf and TB. I don't remember having an idle drop down issue then, without the screen. Back then I didn't bother to cut out the bottom of my air box. Then I decided to put in an SLP CAI. It may have been then that the slow drop down to normal idle started to happen. Did the now sharp 90° air flow coming up through the duct, from the bottom start to cause turbulence ?
I'm thinking about installing a screen in my wife's 2010 Challenger. That CAI has has 2 90º and 1 45º turns
Last edited by jg rider; May 15, 2011 at 03:04 PM.










