Replacement Air Flow Straighteners
I met with this guy (Jason) today and he made me two screens. One for my 2000 Z, and one for my son's 2001 WS6. His screens have 1/8" holes and are 5/8" thick compared to the 1/16" hole and 1/4" thickness of the OEM screen
These two pics he posted for HP Tuners peeked my interest to try this out


I have no afiliation to Jason. I met him for the first time today




Last edited by jg rider; Apr 20, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
Is this the guy you're talking about?
http://www.saxonpc.com/airflow-products.html
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Is this the guy you're talking about?
http://www.saxonpc.com/airflow-products.html
I would post the site that's selling the corvette screen, but I don't know if I'm allowed because they're not sponsors.
I just came back from taking the WS6 out for a run. I think I feel more snap .but I not gonna say anything until my son come to take it for a run. It's his car.
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What we need to know is how much is gained/lost from removing it (like many here, including me, has done) vs. using this larger/longer honeycomb is and also comparing it to the stock setup.
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26546
http://www.southerncarparts.com/Inst/MAFscreen.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xb6AN...layer_embedded
Last edited by jg rider; Apr 20, 2011 at 10:03 PM.
A general rule of thumb is that a flow is fully developed (as smooth as it is getting) at around 20 diameters - so if you have a 100mm MAF, 20 diameters is 2000mm (78.75 inches), so in an ideal world, you would sample the air flow about 6.5 feet after the air turns, which ain't happening. That's why people use flow straighteners like the ones shown above, although I've never personally messed with one on my 100mm MAF.
What I can tell you for certain is that airflow readings are very erratic on the 100mm MAF in an F-body - enough that my AFR was swinging all over the place just cruising down the road running MAF only. To be fair, I haven't messed with it since (I run SD 99% of the time), but perhaps I'll get some time in the future.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMXAU...layer_embedded
First up was the WS6 (my son's)
Son is a Pontiac buff, 66, 67 GTO, 69 Firebird. He bought this 6 spd.car with only 18,000 miles on it, completely stock. It was in my opinion a slug campared to my Z. Once he installed an SLP lid / filter, SLP CAI and ported and polished the MAF the car started to really perform. He hasn't gotten around to an exhaust system yet. The down side has been that it now pings and it throws codes, but still makes power. With the new air straightener on I noticed it pulls stronger at low end and that throttle response is better up top. Son has to make the determination of improvement. Unfortunately it didn't help with the pinging. Next step is to replace the fuel filter
Next up was my Z28. It has 28000 miles on it
I've been running this MAF without any screen since I ported and polished it. I've never experience any problems with this set up, in fact the car dynoed 350 rwhp just with bolt ons. The only quirk there's been was that the idle wouldn't settle down fast enough. When stopping the tach would first go to 1000 rpm (normal), then fluctuate 800 - 900 for a few seconds, and then go down slowly to the correct 700 - 750 rpm..
Unfortunately before installing the air straightener, I changed plugs and put in a new set of wire last week and I then did a limited test run. I did feel a S.O.T.P. gain, but that's a topic for another thread.
After installing the air straightener I went for a 50 mile run. Since this is my car, I think I know that there was a sense of more low end torque. Getting up to 120 from a third gear 40 mph roll seemed to be faster. I live in the country and to get to my house I need to climb up a steep 7 mile road that I can almost do in sixth gear as long as I get a running start at it. Normally half way up I'll down shift to fifth when I see the tach and speedo start to drop. I did two runs up the mountain and I could do the trips without down shifting.
I don't know what caused SOTP performance gain. Was it changing the 28000 miles factory plugs for NGKs or changing the 28000 factory wires for another brand, or the screen straightening out the air flow.
One thing that I know the air straightener did do was give me more low end torque and correct my idling. Now when I come to a stop the tach goes from 1000 rpm right down to 700 - 750 rpm
That's my story and I'm sticking to it
Would I need to start a new thread to ask about my popping steering. It has been progressivly worse over the last 2 years. I think it is the steering shafts u-joints. Hard/ or difficult to find online, but pretty loud now.
Glad to part of your forum.








