Replacement Air Flow Straighteners
Did you not get a business card with your order? The phone number is on the card.
Anyways, I finally got the chance to get mine installed this weekend. I can definately tell a difference, and I don't believe it's placebo. I didn't have to glue mine at all, as it fit tight as hell.
I've noticed a slightly smoother idle, as well as a smoother acceleration, if that makes sense. Also in cruise control, 6th gear, 3.42's, when going over hills or long bridges with a decent incline, it seems like it's just smoother and easier for the car itself.
I popped out my old screen and held it up to the new one, and seriously, holy ****. What a difference. The stocker is such a resriction it isn't even funny. Also, the combs themselves are much deeper. Seems to me airflow would stay straighter longer.
I have no tuning software nor experience in the matter, but it's definately something I can tell seat of the pants. Even my wife noticed. She took the car to get a few groceries and when she came home she said, "Well, I guess the P&P throttle body was worth it. Car seemed to idle and accelerate a little better."
I told her that wasn't the throttle body b/c I hadn't yet installed it. It was still sitting in the box.
All in all, for 10 bucks, I think it's an awesome mod that I would reccomend to anyone.
Anyways, I finally got the chance to get mine installed this weekend. I can definately tell a difference, and I don't believe it's placebo. I didn't have to glue mine at all, as it fit tight as hell.
I've noticed a slightly smoother idle, as well as a smoother acceleration, if that makes sense. Also in cruise control, 6th gear, 3.42's, when going over hills or long bridges with a decent incline, it seems like it's just smoother and easier for the car itself.
I popped out my old screen and held it up to the new one, and seriously, holy ****. What a difference. The stocker is such a resriction it isn't even funny. Also, the combs themselves are much deeper. Seems to me airflow would stay straighter longer.
I have no tuning software nor experience in the matter, but it's definately something I can tell seat of the pants. Even my wife noticed. She took the car to get a few groceries and when she came home she said, "Well, I guess the P&P throttle body was worth it. Car seemed to idle and accelerate a little better."
I told her that wasn't the throttle body b/c I hadn't yet installed it. It was still sitting in the box.
All in all, for 10 bucks, I think it's an awesome mod that I would reccomend to anyone.
Last edited by dr_whigham; Jul 7, 2011 at 08:35 PM.
Once you get the old one out, and actaully hold it up to the new one, it's a "holy ****" moment.
All you can do is look at your poor LS1, shake your head and feel like a monster for trying to make that poor engine breathe through that abomination.
All you can do is look at your poor LS1, shake your head and feel like a monster for trying to make that poor engine breathe through that abomination.
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,149
Likes: 62
From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
I ordered up a pair of these for our LSx vehicles.
Just to be clear when ordering from SaxonPC:
2002 LS1 F-body = 86mm
2007 LS2 TBSS = 96mm
This modification is the perfect compromise between other MAF-hacking options as you will gain flow and improve/maintain functionality; at $10 each it is a no brainer.
Just to be clear when ordering from SaxonPC:
2002 LS1 F-body = 86mm
2007 LS2 TBSS = 96mm
This modification is the perfect compromise between other MAF-hacking options as you will gain flow and improve/maintain functionality; at $10 each it is a no brainer.
Put mine in over the weekend. I'm thinking the previous owner of my car ported the inside of the MAF housing cause the fitment of the screen wasn't very good. I haven't really noticed much of a difference but for $10 feel like it was worth the money especially since my MAF was de-screened by the previous owner.
Probably not necessary. The point of this is to promote consistent airflow readings across the MAF sensor wires instead of the turbulent airflow that can be seen with de-screened MAF housings. Since the SD calculation works off of MAP, RPM, etc., you shouldn't have to worry.
Anybody ordered one for a tsp 100mm maf? Id like to get a screen for mine before I go get it tuned to just try and simplify everything from the get go if possible. Also, what ratio would be most optimal for the 100mm maf? 5:1? sort of confused when looking at the options in the drop down menu on that site.
Well, I have a new problem / update. I think my MAF itself may have both legs in the grave.
For the life of me, I can't get my idle to, well, idle. It's constantly searching, so to speak. It's kinda scary though when it wants to hang around 3k. It normally wants 1600 though.
It'll come down to nowmal (850ish) for a second, then just starts going ballistic, like it can't find it. I initially though vacuum leak, but haven't found one yet. I then figured, ok, it must be a bad tps / iac, so I bouth both brand new, both AC Delco, reset the PCM, and that's when it got worse.
Before the new IAC and TPS, the highest it would go was the afformentioned 1600. After, it would shoot to 3000. I then decided to check the MAF itself.... I was already 100 miles into a 160 mile drive, and just started to get into civilization again off the interstate, so I pulled over, turned off the car, unplugged the MAF, started and drove.
Guess what? MUCH better idle, and no searching.
Does this mean my MAF is shot?
Does it mean it could still be a vacuum leak and now the motor just isn't seeing it due to the disconnected MAF?
The car IS idleing better now. Not perfect, at all, but it doesn't climb and search. It stays around 950 - 1100.
For the life of me, I can't get my idle to, well, idle. It's constantly searching, so to speak. It's kinda scary though when it wants to hang around 3k. It normally wants 1600 though.
It'll come down to nowmal (850ish) for a second, then just starts going ballistic, like it can't find it. I initially though vacuum leak, but haven't found one yet. I then figured, ok, it must be a bad tps / iac, so I bouth both brand new, both AC Delco, reset the PCM, and that's when it got worse.
Before the new IAC and TPS, the highest it would go was the afformentioned 1600. After, it would shoot to 3000. I then decided to check the MAF itself.... I was already 100 miles into a 160 mile drive, and just started to get into civilization again off the interstate, so I pulled over, turned off the car, unplugged the MAF, started and drove.
Guess what? MUCH better idle, and no searching.
Does this mean my MAF is shot?
Does it mean it could still be a vacuum leak and now the motor just isn't seeing it due to the disconnected MAF?
The car IS idleing better now. Not perfect, at all, but it doesn't climb and search. It stays around 950 - 1100.
When I unplugged the MAF the surging went away. I wonder if I didn't screw it up when I descreened it.
I have another MAF on the way that only has 37k on it and still has the screen. I'mm throw it on and see if it gets better. Then I'll take the MAF end off and throw mine on that has the screen to confirm if it's a bad maf or the screen itself.
The way the problem immidiately rectified itself though when I unplugged it makes me think it's just the MAF.
It'll be about a week and a half before I have an update.
I have another MAF on the way that only has 37k on it and still has the screen. I'mm throw it on and see if it gets better. Then I'll take the MAF end off and throw mine on that has the screen to confirm if it's a bad maf or the screen itself.
The way the problem immidiately rectified itself though when I unplugged it makes me think it's just the MAF.
It'll be about a week and a half before I have an update.