Attempt to sqash eBay header debate
I've installed a couple of sets of these. The factory bolts work very well IF you grind off just a tad bit of the end. The extended part that isn't threaded. The fit is sooo close without doing that, that you take a chance on bottoming out the bolt. I triple checked...it's very close and depending on the gasket, could be a problem.
Like was said...for God's sake use antiseize on clean bolts.
Like was said...for God's sake use antiseize on clean bolts.
Lots of talk here about Header bolts and Anti-Seize. My Stock manifold bolts are rusty on an 07 LS2 and the rear passenger bolt was snapped off. Question can I put some heat (torch) on these bolts to help in removal so I don't break any off.
Thanks, Tony
Thanks, Tony
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Lima oh
pinhole in the weld of the 4th picture, quality issues?
I took some more pictures to show how they are built. I won’t say I know the difference between good/bad welds and all that. This is just to show how these are put together. There are no markings at all to indicate what brand they are on the header itself and there are only two markings on the package which I included a picture of but if they violate any rules please feel free to remove the picture or I can. I am simply trying to answer the question asked by juicestain but I am NOT endorsing this product
Absolutely. Just make sure you don't put a direct flame on the heads. Then, as they cool, hit them with penetrating oil. The cooling will draw the oil into the threads.
I just installed these same headers (ap1ap2?) and have never done a header install before. The passenger slide slid right in, i had to beat on a little of the underside of the car (sorry don't know what it's called) just a little bit and the driver slide slid in as well. You will have to pick up some bolts for the nuts on the AIR plates though, those are a bitch.
I just installed these same headers (ap1ap2?) and have never done a header install before. The passenger slide slid right in, i had to beat on a little of the underside of the car (sorry don't know what it's called) just a little bit and the driver slide slid in as well. You will have to pick up some bolts for the nuts on the AIR plates though, those are a bitch.
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From: Crosslanes WV
Just an update.. I gave the headers to my dad last night to take to work with him Monday. He is a welder in a machine shop and assures me he can take off the EGR and AIR pipes and make it look like they were never there so thats where they are.. Soon as I get them back I will post weights of the headers.. Probably this coming weekend will be the actual install.. I know there are already header write ups so I wont waste time taking pics of breakdown, motor mounts, blah blah blah.. I was just going to take pics of the headers as soon as we tighten them up to show clearances and if we ran into any snags I was going to take pics of those as well.. Unless you guys want me to take pics every step of the way and someone could do a write up on it or something.. ??
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: South London UK
I'd be interested in pictures showing the clearance around the underside, around the engine/gearbox join, past the steering gear, trans pan, gearbox cross member and such.
I have a rear roll bar (behind the front axle line) to deal with in my installation (non GM) and I'd really like to see where they go before I spend the money.
I have a rear roll bar (behind the front axle line) to deal with in my installation (non GM) and I'd really like to see where they go before I spend the money.
Good you're taking off the air/egr pipes. I used block off plates on mine (Ebay headers also) and one of air pipes broke off a couple years later and I had to pull the header to get welded up.
Just an update.. I gave the headers to my dad last night to take to work with him Monday. He is a welder in a machine shop and assures me he can take off the EGR and AIR pipes and make it look like they were never there so thats where they are.. Soon as I get them back I will post weights of the headers.. Probably this coming weekend will be the actual install.. I know there are already header write ups so I wont waste time taking pics of breakdown, motor mounts, blah blah blah.. I was just going to take pics of the headers as soon as we tighten them up to show clearances and if we ran into any snags I was going to take pics of those as well.. Unless you guys want me to take pics every step of the way and someone could do a write up on it or something.. ??
did it look like it was manufactured like that? ill probably end up gettin them cut off too just wanna see if you would be able to tell.
^^This^^
That's been the only thing really holding me back.
Hell, I've even tried looking for the RUSTY headers for sale, like old painted pacesetters or hookers, and can't even get any under 200. I just want to wrap mine. I give 2 ***** what anyone says. I care about performance before looks. Nothing beats heat like wrap.
That's been the only thing really holding me back.
Hell, I've even tried looking for the RUSTY headers for sale, like old painted pacesetters or hookers, and can't even get any under 200. I just want to wrap mine. I give 2 ***** what anyone says. I care about performance before looks. Nothing beats heat like wrap.
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From: Crosslanes WV
Just trying to help! I read the sticky about eBay headers and just want to play it safe with what I said here cause I know this site favors the vendors more so than other sites.. If price isn’t a big deal I can tell you I spent 195 to my door, stainless band clamps cost me 14, getting rid of AIR and EGR is free 
I will reuse my manifold bolts with anti-seize.. I don’t know how much the gaskets are but I figure I won’t have more than 230 total in the header project. Since I am also doing motor/tranny mounts I will end up right around 300. Not bad considering the power I "hopefully" will pick up!
The other post asking what we are squashing here is the fact that almost every post I can find about these headers is nothing but people, who don’t own them, that say they are crap and every now and then someone will chime in and say they are great.. No one has documented from what I can tell how they fit and taken detailed pics of them, so, I am.. I never thought to weigh them until I was asked to so that’s coming soon..
If anyone has any other requests at all please let me know.. I am just trying to help other people that don’t have 700 bucks to spend on headers decide if these are worth it or not to them..
I will reuse my manifold bolts with anti-seize.. I don’t know how much the gaskets are but I figure I won’t have more than 230 total in the header project. Since I am also doing motor/tranny mounts I will end up right around 300. Not bad considering the power I "hopefully" will pick up!The other post asking what we are squashing here is the fact that almost every post I can find about these headers is nothing but people, who don’t own them, that say they are crap and every now and then someone will chime in and say they are great.. No one has documented from what I can tell how they fit and taken detailed pics of them, so, I am.. I never thought to weigh them until I was asked to so that’s coming soon..
If anyone has any other requests at all please let me know.. I am just trying to help other people that don’t have 700 bucks to spend on headers decide if these are worth it or not to them..
I looked for a while and I couldn't find any, but this was a while ago. I heard a couple people got some without the emissions ports but not sure who they purchased from. I did the same thing the OP did and had them cut off and welded shut for $60. Could've got it done cheaper but I was on a time crunch and finding someone to weld stainless short notice of a Sat was tough.
I know jack about welding, but the guy who worked on my headers said he had to use the welder on a low setting because the stainless used for the primaries were thin. I also noticed when I picked them up they seemed lighter than other headers I worked with but I didn't think to weigh them. This might explain why they can sell them cheaper, less material cost.
The thinner primaries don't worry me, I've run them for over a year and 10k miles with no problems. Other guys have run them for much longer and they're holding up fine. The metal for the flanges and collector seem to be just as beefy as other headers I've had and that's where it really matters.
I know jack about welding, but the guy who worked on my headers said he had to use the welder on a low setting because the stainless used for the primaries were thin. I also noticed when I picked them up they seemed lighter than other headers I worked with but I didn't think to weigh them. This might explain why they can sell them cheaper, less material cost.
The thinner primaries don't worry me, I've run them for over a year and 10k miles with no problems. Other guys have run them for much longer and they're holding up fine. The metal for the flanges and collector seem to be just as beefy as other headers I've had and that's where it really matters.
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From: Crosslanes WV
Got the car up to the track last night for our local Street Car Shootout.. I only went to get a baseline run before the header install but ended up winning the event!!! Well, I won my class in the event which was "Real Street".. Time slips are attached and this was done with 255-40-18 Hankook tires, lid, ory, borla, 3:42.. thats it.. I know its not a factory freak or anything but I was pleased with a 8.53 @ 83.04 
Got me a new Husqvarna weed eater, $100 bucks, and a plaque
Got me a new Husqvarna weed eater, $100 bucks, and a plaque