SLP Air Lid: Before and After
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Got my SLP Air Lid today for my '01 Z28. Had a friend install it, only took him 20-25 minutes, really easy actually, he knew exactly what he was doing. And it's a good thing we got in there too. Apparently the hose that attaches to the air box had a HUGE leak in the bottom of it, so when we took it off we examined the screen. The screen was filthy. It had chunks of dirt, dusty, and rocks in there. I imagine by cleaning the screen alone I gained 5HP. I had no idea it was so dirty, but that hole in the rubber tubing/hosing must have caused it.
Anyways, we get the thing on, I go to start it up and take it for a test drive. Right upon start up it starts idling really low, around 300-400RPM, sounds like it's going to die, so I rev it up a little to 2,000-3,000, it starts idling really low again, I give it more gas and then put it in gear. Not sure why it was trying to die, made me very nervous at first. So I took it out on the road, and even with the added weight of a passenger I am sure the car felt like it had more pull on the top end. A slight increase in throttle response.
Well my two of my friends wanted to drive it, so I let them, and I have to say, riding in the passenger seat of your own car feels very weird. Also, the car feels a lot faster when you're riding in it and not driving it. I guess because you don't know what to expect, when you are driving you brace yourself for when it throws you back in your seat.
So with the SLP LM1 Cat-back and the SLP Air Lid, I have not dynoed it yet, but I'm hoping for it to be right around 325 crank HP now, compared to the 310 at stock. Also hoping for this air lid and cleaned out screen to improve my fuel economy. So far not regretting the install, didn't feel a real big improvement, but I'm sure it's there and every little bit helps.
Anyways, we get the thing on, I go to start it up and take it for a test drive. Right upon start up it starts idling really low, around 300-400RPM, sounds like it's going to die, so I rev it up a little to 2,000-3,000, it starts idling really low again, I give it more gas and then put it in gear. Not sure why it was trying to die, made me very nervous at first. So I took it out on the road, and even with the added weight of a passenger I am sure the car felt like it had more pull on the top end. A slight increase in throttle response.
Well my two of my friends wanted to drive it, so I let them, and I have to say, riding in the passenger seat of your own car feels very weird. Also, the car feels a lot faster when you're riding in it and not driving it. I guess because you don't know what to expect, when you are driving you brace yourself for when it throws you back in your seat.
So with the SLP LM1 Cat-back and the SLP Air Lid, I have not dynoed it yet, but I'm hoping for it to be right around 325 crank HP now, compared to the 310 at stock. Also hoping for this air lid and cleaned out screen to improve my fuel economy. So far not regretting the install, didn't feel a real big improvement, but I'm sure it's there and every little bit helps.
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To add to it, the car idles at about 500RPM when it's in drive and I'm just sitting there, not sure if that is normal, can't remember if it was 500RPM or 600RPM before the install. It's not idling really low and trying to die anymore though.
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5-600rpm isn't low...I wish mine was there.
The place most of the dirt gets past the filter is along the rear edge, with aftermarket lids. Best way I found to check for gaps was to turn on a flashlight, stick it on top of the filter, and put the lid on; light shining out makes for a pretty obvious hole. Some exterior weatherstripping typically fixes it pretty handily.
The place most of the dirt gets past the filter is along the rear edge, with aftermarket lids. Best way I found to check for gaps was to turn on a flashlight, stick it on top of the filter, and put the lid on; light shining out makes for a pretty obvious hole. Some exterior weatherstripping typically fixes it pretty handily.
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The hole was there with the stock airbox. With the new SLP lid the hole is gone.
So 500RPM idle isn't too low? Good, I like low idles. I think having 2.73 gears probably helps with that.
You think your T/A is slow? Why?
So 500RPM idle isn't too low? Good, I like low idles. I think having 2.73 gears probably helps with that.
You think your T/A is slow? Why?
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out of all the things that can affect your idle, you think your final drive gears do?
the lid might get you 3hp at the most, catback maybe 10-15 depending on which exhaust your car came with from the factory.
the lid might get you 3hp at the most, catback maybe 10-15 depending on which exhaust your car came with from the factory.
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I don't see you coming up with an answer as to what gets my idle lower than the next car. Pretty sure the bigger lid will be more than 3HP. The bigger lid along with the cleaned out screen should get me over 5, hopefully s much as 9-10, coupled with the full cat-back since the stock air boxes on these cars are pretty restrictive. That is one reason why the LS1 Corvette is a tad faster, it breathes better.
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Yes it's lighter. But it's also commonly known that the Corvette has a different exhaust set up and a different air box than the F-bodies. Thanks for playing though, you can get off my thread.
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Whiteknight, you have some facts wrong.
-Idle speed will vary on engine conditions.
-RWHP for properly running stock LS1 cars is about 300 HP. It's difficult to estimate or calculate the exact crank HP without pulling the engine and dynoing it.
-The stock air box is not much of a restriction on a stock car. Other things come into play. Reality is your car is probably making the same power. Air intakes that take advantage of ram air effect while in motion do make more.
-The stock MAF is good to about 450 HP. De-screening it will cause turbulence causing the airflow to not hit the sensor at certain engine speeds and will probably cause drivability issues.
-A cat-back exhaust also doesn't do much as the real restrictions in the exhaust is the exhaust manifolds, cats and the y-pipe.
-Corvettes are faster because they are lighter and usually (from the factory) geared better.
-Idle speed will vary on engine conditions.
-RWHP for properly running stock LS1 cars is about 300 HP. It's difficult to estimate or calculate the exact crank HP without pulling the engine and dynoing it.
-The stock air box is not much of a restriction on a stock car. Other things come into play. Reality is your car is probably making the same power. Air intakes that take advantage of ram air effect while in motion do make more.
-The stock MAF is good to about 450 HP. De-screening it will cause turbulence causing the airflow to not hit the sensor at certain engine speeds and will probably cause drivability issues.
-A cat-back exhaust also doesn't do much as the real restrictions in the exhaust is the exhaust manifolds, cats and the y-pipe.
-Corvettes are faster because they are lighter and usually (from the factory) geared better.
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OK, you cleaned the clogged MAF screen and re-installed it. GOOD, leave it in.
SEARCH is your friend. SEARCH for all all the mods you're thinking of doing and learn the pros/cons of them. Doing mods without this free education then showing it off here will get you spanked a bit-as seen in this thread.
And don't be suckered into manufacturers claims, they're often hyped up.
SEARCH is your friend. SEARCH for all all the mods you're thinking of doing and learn the pros/cons of them. Doing mods without this free education then showing it off here will get you spanked a bit-as seen in this thread.
And don't be suckered into manufacturers claims, they're often hyped up.
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You've got a pretty bad attitude there. You won't be getting much advice from people when you act like that.
And for the record, stock auto idle is 600 in P/N and 550 in gear. And your factory tach is not accurate to tell the difference in 50 rpms, it simply isn't that sensitive.
And for the record, stock auto idle is 600 in P/N and 550 in gear. And your factory tach is not accurate to tell the difference in 50 rpms, it simply isn't that sensitive.